What element produces a red light in advertisement signs?
The gas used to produce red light when an electric current is passed through it is neon.
How do you wire a 240 volt single phase magnetic starter to an air compressor?
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.
Wiring of air compressor's pressure switch to a contactor.
Connect a 240 volt supply from the two pole breaker in the distribution panel to the top terminals L1 and L2 on the magnetic contactor.
Take a control wire from one of the line terminals L1 to one side of the contactor's coil.
Take another control wire from the second line terminal L2 and put it to one side of a N.C. contact on the overload block.
From the other side of the N.C. contact on the O/L block take a control wire to the N.C. terminal on the air compressor's pressure switch.
From the other side of the N.C. contact on the pressure switch's terminal connect the control wire to the other side of the contactor's coil.
This configuration will be using the same coil voltage on the contactor as that of the supply voltage.
From the overload block line terminals T1 and T2 connect a cable to the motor's terminal box and connect.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Hooking up three 17amp batteries two series one parallel will you get 24 volts at34 amp?
NO! Do not hook it up this way!
Two batteries in series will equal 24 volts and 17 amps
Voltage in series add and current stays the same
Series circuit: Etotal = E1 + E2 Itotal = I1 = I2
Two batteries in parallel will equal 12 volts and 34 amps
Voltage in parallel stays the same and current adds
Parallel circuit: Etotal = E1 = E2 Itotal = I1 + I2
To get the 24 volts and 34 amps you would need a combination of the two:
Two batteries in series that are parallel with two more batteries that are in series with each other
By putting 24 volts in parallel with a 12 volt battery you would have a difference of potential of 12 volts. Same as connecting a wire from the positive to the negative terminal (12 volts difference), you would see sparks and maybe an explosion.
Normally the neutral wire of every circuit is connected to the neutral bus bar in the main breaker panel. Because the neutral bus bar is always connected to ground you should never be able to measure any voltage between the neutral wire and ground.
So, if you are measuring 45 to 60 VAC between the neutral and the ground it could be that the neutral wire has become disconnected at the breaker panel or somewhere in between the panel and the point where you are measuring that voltage.
Assuming the load equipment - an appliance, a motor or whatever - is still connected to the hot and neutral wires, then, if there is no connection to the neutral going back to the power station, in effect you are measuring the line voltage from the hot feed as reduced by the resistance and/or reactive impedance (total reactance) of the load. That could be making 45 to 60 VAC, as read by your meter, appear on the neutral wire coming back from the load.
A simple way to prove if that is the case is to unplug or disconnect all loads - appliances, light fixtures, motors, etc. - from the circuit in question. If you cannot then measure any voltage between the neutral wire and ground the next thing to check is the resistance between the neutral and ground.
First of all switch off the circuit by switching off the breaker at the main panel - or remove the circuit's fuse if it has a fuse and no breaker - and then use the resistance range on a multimeter to measure the resistance between the neutral wire and ground. If it is a very low resistance then an open neutral is not the cause of your problem. If it measures as a very high resistance or an open circuit then your problem is an open neutral.
The reason for the open neutral must be found and that fault must then be corrected urgently.
In the Discussion page to this question please let us know what you found when you did the tests suggested above, and whether or not this advice helped you to locate and fix this problem.
To be able to help you better it is important to know exactly here this circuit is located geographically in the world and to have confirmation whether - as inferred from your question - it is a 50Hz system with one 230V live and one neutral or whether it is actually a 60 Hz system having two 120V hots (+120V and -120V) balanced around neutral.
Then, if necessary we shall have to consider what other reasons could cause the fault you have described but to be able to do so it would help to know exactly what you found when you did the tests described above.
<><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
What does a transister look like?
A transistor is made of a solid piece of a semiconductor material, with at least three terminals for connection to an external circuit. A simple illustration below.
IIIIIIII
IIIIIIII
..I I I
..I I I
..I I I
You have an outside light that won't work but switch has power?
First and foremost make sure the light bulb is a good one. Try it in another fixture to make sure, even if it just came out of the box it was packed in. If you have checked the switch for power then you must have a tester. The power coming to the switch will most likely be on the top screw. Turn the switch on and see if you have voltage on the bottom screw. Check this voltage from the screws to the ground wire as the neutral will not be accessible in the back of the switch box. If there is voltage to the bottom screw then move on to the light fixture. Remove the outside light fixture and see if you get a voltage reading on the incoming hot (black ) wire. If there is voltage there then you have to see if the lamp holder is making continuity. If you have an ohm meter or a continuity meter remove the lamp fixture from the "hot" wire and the neutral connection and see if you get a reading across the fixtures black and white wire. This has to be tested with the bulb in the fixture. No continuity reading then there is trouble with the socket. Might be time to think about a new fixture.
I'm afraid your question is not very clear. Your heat pump is basically an air conditioning unit with back up heat strips. If your thermostat is wired correctly and I'm certain it was from the factory, then the AC and heat strips will never come on at the same time. Is it not going into cooling mode? Ruud has wiring diagrams for most all their equipment on the internet. With a little research, you should be able to find yours. The Model # of your heat pump is the key to that.
Describe safe isolation procedure for safe systems of working in electrical circuit?
Shut it off and lock it out. Sign the lockout card and keep your key with you.
The incoming voltage from the current source to the transformer is called what?
The incoming voltage from the source to the transformer is called primary voltage.
Here's a link to a 1.5v LED flasher circuit that uses 2n3904s and 2n3906s. http://www.electro-tech-online.com/electronic-projects-design-ideas-reviews/10228-led-flasher-1-5-volt-battery.html Mike
How do you install shunt trip breaker?
A shunt trip breaker is installed like any other molded case breaker. The only difference is that it has an internal tripping coil that is usually connected to a C.T. The breaker is usually mounted in a MCC cabinet The top of the breaker is bolted to the MCC bus bars and the bottom of the breaker is connected to the load. The load conductors pass through the C.T.'s.
NOT A GOOD IDEA!
Bring in an electrician. It would be well worth the expense and you might be able to find a way to work around those specific requirements.
What is an electrical isolator?
Something that doesn't let electricity through
AnswerAn isolator (UK terminology) or disconnector (US terminology) is a switch used to isolate a section of a circuit from any energised conductors, by presenting a visible break in the circuit. Isolators are not designed to break load currents (unless fitted with optional arc-breaking feature) or to break fault currents. In high-voltage systems, isolators are used in conjunction with circuit breakers -with the isolators opened after a circuit breaker has opened the circuit, and closed before the circuit breaker closes the circuit. For example, before one can perform maintenance work on, say, a high-voltage circuit breaker, the following sequence must be followed:
Why one phase is hotter in commercial buildings?
The service is not balanced, one leg is drawing more current that the others.
What instrument measures a pulsating current?
By "pulsating" current, I presume you mean alternating current. If so then the answer is YES. Current, (electron flow) is measured with a device called an "amprobe". It measures current flow in amperes. (the device or circuit you're measuring must be in use and drawing power to get a measurement. An amprobe is that electrical meter with a large "clamp" at the top of it. The clamp must be placed around the hot conductor and only one conductor. For example if you put the clamp around a cord running say a toaster, it'll read 0 because the neutral cancels out the signal of the hot conductor. If you're measuring a 3 phase device, you again must measure each of the three "hot" wires individually. The three "legs" should all be close in their amp values. You can average them, but note the highest value is the critical value. Also note that if you look this up on say Google, be aware that "Amprobe" is a brand name of the first company who made these devices. (I still have an original from the 70's) Now virtually all electrical meter manufacturers make "amprobes."
It keeps the electron flow in check. Wthout resistance, current flow, (or amperage), would be too excessive and hard to control.
Think what would happen if you placed a metal wire from one post of a car battery to the other post (a direct short with no resistance). The wire would melt and overheat and also possibly damage the battery from excessive amperage flow.
What is the proper type of meter for testing a GCFI receptacle?
Any electrical meter which measures volts or a standard plug tester. (the ones which plug into the receptacle and light up indicator lights) As long as the receptacle measures 110-120V between the hot and neutral, and measures 110-120V between the hot and ground, then it is wired correctly and supplying correct voltage with ground reference. To determine if the GFCI is "tripping" or opening the circuit when it should, simply press the test button. If it doesn't trip, (or reset correctly with the reset button) replace the device.
Wiring diagram for a scotts 42 riding mower?
Have you done a Google search? You should be able to locate it.
Because that completes a circuit. The live wire is one terminal of a high voltage transformer at the substation. The other terminal is grounded to earth ground, and earth is conductive.
What is the maximum current recommended for 30 gauge copper wire?
Sorry, there is no such wire size as "30 gauge" in the AWG (American Wire Gauge) system. For the ampacity rating of all standard conductor sizes, go to Table 310-16 of the National Electric Code. If you mean what wire size will carry 30 amps then a #10 copper wire insulation rating of 90 degree C is rated at 30 amps.
Do electrical outlets wear out?
When electrical outlets get old they tend to chip and crack. Also in older outlets the socket gets loose and the plug will not stay in the outlet.