Flooring

25 cents per square feet

Since there are no units given it is not possible to answer the question. The units used for measuring the tiles must be different from those used for the room.

13 boxes with 13 tiles in each

Depends on where it is.

Basic level - Rs. 1000

Mid level - Rs. 1400

High level - Rs. 1750

It depends how many square feet the style you pick covers. For example a box of one pergo tile style may cover 18.36 sq.ft.

Then you would need at least 6 boxes

Check out each Pergo specs are on the box and state sq ft coverage

about £600 a square/meter.

75

first give the unit of tiles dimensions as 16 inch or meter or feet or what, if it is not in feet as is look from above question then change the dimension in feet then multiply the length and breadth of the side of tiles (after changing the unit in feet) and then divide 100 by the outcome of multiplication of lenght and breadth of tile.

150

12*12=144 square inches
150 square feet =21600 square inches
21600/144=150

it would depend on where you got it from but i would say it would cost around 2 dollars per square ft

10x12 room

9" x 9" tile = 81 sq inches

12' x 15' = 144" x 180"

144" x 180" = 25920 sq inches

25920" / 81 = 320 tile

I would buy for waste though 345 tile! You always want to have all your tile in 1 dye lot.

You will see the post tention slabs with out stirrups, they are cutting costs. For a conventional slab where you have 4 bars in your beam, stirrups are the best way to hold the bars in place. Some engineers claim the stirrups add zero structural value to the slab.

So far the only place I have found is Lumber Liquidators.

Around $65-70 ( may be more depending on specific area). Does not include lot.

Not usually, no. As long as the sub floor is solid, without water damage, etc then a backer board is usually plenty.

You need to have 1 1/4" of sub floor and backer board when you put the tile down. Generally speaking, homes are built with at least a 3/4" sub floor and 1/4" cement backer board with 1/4" x 1/4" trowel of thinset equals this.

If you are not sure, don't assume. Find a vent in the floor. Pull out the register vent and use a hand mirror to see the sub floor. Take a tape measure and measure its thickness.

1/4 inch per running foot

It depends on the size of the tile. Tiles come in many different sizes. They are generally sold though by the square foot.

The general rule goes that for every tile floor you will have around 10% waste. Meaning that you will need 100 tile for the floor and 10 more for cuts and breaks you might have.

When you buy these tiles, tell the sales person you need 110 square feet and this already includes waste.

Apply sealer as soon as the grout has lost the "Heat of Hydration"; usually in a matter of hours. Choose a sealer carefully! Read the cautionary statements on the product you are considering! If it cautions "Do Not Allow Product To Come In Contact With Glass or Metal Surfaces" Don't even consider it! More than likely a Sodium Silicate based product that migrates out of the grout very soon, and it will etch glass and any metals it comes in contact with! If it allows for a Re-Coat at some future date? Ask yourself- OK, what happened to the first application I put on?

You put sealer on EARLY to waterproof the grout and stop the rapid evaporation of mix water from the material. This evaporation causes shrinkage cracks in the grout. Even Microscopic cracks in a grout will increase in size with traffic and result in a delamination of the grout. I use a product called that is manufactured exclusively for, and sold by my company. Waterproofing grouts immediately will retard evaporation of mix water and give a superior bond to the tile itself [on the side of the joint] and to the substrate [host concrete] below. You will know when you have achieved proper saturation levels of the product when it is no longer being absorbed into the grout. Come back the next day and pour water on the area you have waterproofed; it will pond and remain on the surface until it evaporates.

In kitchens or on a rough sanded grout I make another application the next day. If the second coat is not able to penetrate the grout I know its waterproofed and mop up the excess product. This prevents the product from drying on a surface to form a film. The product works by forming a solid inside when it reacts with the alkali and does not leave a film. When friends come to my house and comment on my kitchens "New Tile" I pour grape juice or ketchup onto a joint, proceed to tell them it's 6 years old, it's waterproofed grout, with a 15 year warranty for waterproofing and after 10 or so minutes-- I wipe the Stain up!! If you waterproof the host concrete beneath your tile install, you will also avoid a delamination of the thin set mortar that holds the tile in place. That hollow sound of a tile when you walk on it, is a dead give away that the tile is no longer bonded to your floor. Do it right the first time and ASAP.

Warm soapy water

240 sq ft = 240x12x12 = 34560 sq inches

Each tikle is 18 x 18 = 324 sq inches

Thus you need 34560/324 = 107 tiles

First, make sure that the cause of the moisture has been corrected. Assuming the floor buckled due to moisture, first make sure that everything is thoroughly dry. The buckled boards will have to be removed, nails pulled and the boards replaced, as long as they haven't warped and are still straight. If the boards are not reuseable then new boards will have to be used. If the floor is still swelled, the last board to be installed may have to be cut down ("ripped") on a table saw in order to fit back in. If the flooring is tongue-and-groove, cut the bottom of the board off of the "groove" side leaving the top (or face) side uncut. Re-install the final board, face-nail it and fill the nail holes.

I suppose you could as long as it is solid....

288, if there is no waste.