Glue and Adhesives

Silicone spray eg..WD40 and similar...reverses the adhesive properties

Neoprene glue is used for rubber based items like wetsuits, rubber boats etc.

The best thing to use is regular yellow wood glue (Elmer's Wood Glue or equivalent). This will form a stronger bond with most woods than pretty much any other glue (stronger than the wood itself), and is also cheap. Make sure the surfaces you are gluing lie flat against each other. Spread the glue evenly over one surface, then clamp the boards together overnight. You will get a much stronger bond if you clamp the boards than if you just press them together and leave them.

The only real exception is very hard, nonporous oily wood like rosewood. In that case, it may be better to use quickest epoxy. Slowest is a little stronger, but it can take months to cure completely.

There is no such thing as "regular glue" ! -Please use the proper term, - PVA glue, epoxy glue, contact glue, spray glue or even better, the actual product NAME. - Then we can apply a proper answer to your question.

You should get it done by a pro so you wont have to worry.

Glues have been around for thousands of years.

Cause your mouth will glue together and your won't be able to talk and then you'll just have to mime like french people do and slowly but surely you'll DIE

There is almost no way to do this without destroying the plastic. As you didn't say WHAT KIND of plastic, it's hard to be more help.

The 5¢ Franklin and 10¢ Washington stamps

All kinds of materials are in the hundreds of glues and adhesives that we use today.

It depends on what paint and how well it was applied. I would try Goof Off first, let a few drops settle on the glue and it should soften enough to remove it. Goof Off doesn't appear to damage well painted surfaces.

There are no animals made of glue. -There are also very few glues made of animals. In general only a few specialised woodworking glues are made from animal parts and are mainly used in antique restoration.

Yes, there are many effective polystyrene glues. All Hobby shops or stores that sell plastic kits sell polystyrene glues. I make many kits and use industrial MEK.

As you can imagine, the answer is 'it depends'. Some major factors that the time it takes for carpenter's glue to dry include: Temperature, Humidity, square feet covered (distance from air), and to some degree, the material you are working with. There are probably some slight differences with different manufacture, but we've used several brands and our working rules of thumb seem to stand for all of them.

In general, the warmer the temperature, the faster it is going to dry.

In general, the higher the humidity, the slower it is going to dry.

In general, the more porous the material, the faster it is going to dry. Both because the glue will 'leak' into the pours and become thinner and because the material will let air at the glue from more directions.

In general, the greater the square feet covered, the slower it is going to dry, but more than square feet, it is a question of how far the glue in the middle is from the outside and how long it is going to take for the air to get to the glue. This last one can mean the difference between hours and days or weeks. Imagine you are gluing 2 fairly nonporous (air can't get through) materials together, the air has to come in through the glue on the outside until it gets to the inside. The glue could take months to dry.

Now, you probably care about 'normal' circumstances. I can tell you that we assume that the carpenters glue is going to take several hours to dry. For cabinetry - using 1/2 or 3/4" material, we like to leave it overnight (12-16 hours) and have had no problems with it not being dry and solid. For this - our shop runs at about 13C/55 F for as much as the year as we can (we like the cooler temperature for working) and we are fairly dry. So if you are more humid but 20C/68F, I expect you will get similar results.

Here is an exact test that we did: Using 3/4" MDF, we glued with a thin but full cover layer of carpenter's glue (Weldbond II) on the END of 3/4" MDF. Then we glued and clamped it to the flat surface of another piece of MDF. So we glued an end joint of 3/4 to a flat side of MDF. We glued and clamped a whole bunch of pieces to test. After 20 minutes, the first piece we tried to break off came off easily and the glue was obviously wet in the middle. After 2 hours we tested and it required full force to break it off, and it broke a fraction of an inch below the glue, meaning the MDF was now the 'weak joint'. We tried several other pieces and each time, it broke the MDF, not the glue, in each case it was the flat surface of the MDF, not the end joint, that came away with the glue. Now, while there may be conclusions of how to get a better glue joint, the result of the test for this question is; After 2 hours, at 13C/55F, with low humidity, the glue dried to stronger than the wood through 3/8ths inch (half of 3/4 since it would dry from each side. We still try to leave it overnight to be safe (in case higher humidity) but realistically, for most of our work, carpenter's glue is dry after a few hours.

If you need to know if it is going to dry sooner, I suggest you take several boards and glue them together then at, say, 10 minute intervals: force them apart and see how far they are dry. If they break on the glue - they aren't dry, if it is the wood that breaks/rips/tears, then they are 'dry enough' meaning that the glue is now stronger than the wood, so you don't care usually if it is fully dry, just that it is no longer the weak point. This test will tell you how long it takes to glue for your temperature, humidity, materials and thickness.

Madmanpierre's information is excellent. As an experienced cabinetmaker, the answer to this question often broke down to a simple question: what is the clamping time?

a. for PVA glue (Elmer's glue/polyvinyl acetate/white wood glue): 24 hours

b. for carpenter's glue (aliphatic resin): 30 minutes

super glue dries in seconds!! be careful!

Yes, it is, it's non-conductive.

The best glues for dioramas are Super glue, white glue and TiteBond ll. I use both for different purposes, the TiteBond for attaching parts to the base and Super for building trees etc. and the white glue for attaching grass.

A clear epoxy. - Heat it gently in a metal jar lid or similar on the stovetop and then apply quickly with a tooth pick.

hmmm, That would depend on the plastic. but, I really don't think it would melt most plastics.

Because that was a large part of it's original purpose. It was largely developed as a medical adhesive.

You'll find out if you read the instructions that came with it!

You haven't said what the canvas is to be glued to. -Try silicone, it sticks many things like canvas.

It will stick to almost anything smooth and hard

Silicone or LePage Extreme will both do that.