Mazda

The HOLD light indicates the driver has selected NOT to allow the car to shift into a higher gear (i.e., 5th gear -also called Overdrive). It is mostly used when driving uphill when the driver wants to prevent the car from shifting into a gear that is too high and possibly could cause the engine to lug (over-strain).

There is a black plastic cap behind the oil pan. It is nearly on the opposite side of the oil plug under the plastic cowling. It is not the standard oil filter. It is like the guts of an oil filter in a plastic reusable case. I just tried changing my oil and found out the hard way.

yes you can its a straight swap you don't even have to change engine mounts

pretty sure it's herb alpert and the tijuana brass : whipped cream:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOmKy6ANmyM

No. The 1994 and later Mazda B-series pickups are re-badged Ford Rangers. The 2.5 liter engine in them is an improved 2.3 liter engine that's been in Fords for many years. The Mazda B2200 uses a Mazda-designed engine that's fully different. Best bet is to go with a Mazda B2600i engine, or sell the pickup and buy something else. The i in B2600i stands for fuel injection, which increases power and gas mileage and reduces the amount of emission control equipment needed, simplifying the engine compartment.

We currently use Motorola Krzr and Rizr, both work seemlessly with the bluetooth.

hookup a timing light warm up the engine check rpm should be between 800-850 if not adjust as necessary next diconnect the vacuum advance hose and plug the hose check the yellow timing mark on the crank pulley and see if under the timing mark on the cover if not align loosen distributor nut and turn it till you align the yellow mark with mark on the timing cover spec is 5-7 degrees btdc

look at the oil fill cap

Mazda cars are going to come to India. It will arrive after the auto show of 2012.

all the sexy rotarys do. very powerfull engine too

My '02 Millennia S tilt column got stuck in the up position as well. Actuating the toggle switch produced a clicking sound, which sounded like a relay, but no motion of the wheel. There was no whirring sound of a free spinning motor, no humming sound like a jammed or shorted motor, no gearbox grinding sounds, and no obvious power draw on the car's electrical system. The dealer's first guess at a diagnosis was a faulty motor, but because of the symptoms and the fact that the tilt feature has hardly ever been used, I was skeptical. They estimated the repair at $1100.

Since I don't use the tilt feature, I just wanted to get the wheel back down to a normal driving position.

The Fix:

There are two cables associated with the column tilt motor and its position sensor. The cables' connectors are mounted side by side to a bracket under the column directly behind the motor drive assembly. The cable connector nearest the wheel has two large gauge wires: one red and the other blue. The other cable has three smaller gauge wires: two grey & black and the third green.

The larger gauge connector is the motor power cable, the other is for the tilt position sensor.

Disconnect the harness cable connected the motor power cable by pulling it downward. The harness cable you pulled off goes to a relay that operates the motor. To actuate the motor, you will want to apply 12V power to the connector end still attached to the bracket.

Polarity: when the power cable connector is still mated to the connector harness, the red wire will be towards the front of the car and the blue will be towards the back, closest to the wheel. Applying +12Volts to the connector blade attached to the red wire and ground to the other blade will cause the wheel to go up. Reversing the polarity will make the wheel go down. So to make the wheel go down, you will want to put ground on the engine-side connector blade and +12V on the blade closest to the wheel.

I used a 12V battery charger, set in the 10Amp position, as a source of 12V power, but the car battery itself would work just as well. I connected a 1 foot length of 12Gauge, insulated solid conductor bell wire to each of the battery charger clamps, by wrapping the stripped wire ends around one jaw of the clamp multiple times, and then wrapped the clamps with electrical tape to prevent shorting.

I stripped about a ¼ inch from the other end of the wires. I used electrical tape wrapped around the two wires about ¾" of an inch from the stripped ends to set the ends at the proper spacing to contact the two connector blades---about 3/8" of an inch apart.

Carefully line up the stripped wires ends with the blades and apply them briefly. You will see a spark and hopefully the motor will spin and the wheel will come down. A second or so of actuation is all that you will need. If you just get a humming sound from the motor, try reversing the polarity a few times with short power applications to free up the motor/gearbox assembly. When I first tried it, I had the battery charger set on the 2 Amp setting and the motor didn't spin. Moving the charger to the 10Amp setting produced a bigger spark and the motor spun freely.

Mazda RX8 is RWD Mazda Tribute is FWD but can also be bought in 4WD configuration.

nevada...on highway 50.

Mazda is a Japanese vehicle manufacturer. They produce vehicles worldwide, from 2-door sports cars to minivans and trucks.

Yes, you can add a transmission cooler but the way they're making vehicles these days and there's not much room in the engine compartment to mount one. Sometimes you have to remove headlight assemblies, or bumper covers but it can be done.

The vacuum control valve releases pressure in the float bowl under hot driving conditions. See the links below for additional information.

wtf u suppose to b tellin me get a life asses

Mazdatruckin.com has a list of torque specifications on their website in the tech section. If you're looking for something in particular they are happy to find the info you need if you post in their forum. The link below has torque specs for the B2600i.

where is the fault self diagnostic connector located on a mazda demio

Turn on the clock. Then press and hold the CLK button and adjust hours and minutes with the SEEK and TUNE buttons.

there either 10.28x1.33 or 11.20x1.33 You have to take off your wheel and check yourself Mazda Changed there rotors midyear 2002-2003 Kinda Confusing lol.

There is not a simple way to explain it but in short here is some info.Your parking brake should click 7-12 for 87 models and if it does not u can adjust it where the cable ties the left and right cable underneath the truck near the transmission on the driver side.It has a Y type assembly and make sure the parking brake is off and it has a adjusting jam nut.U simply loosen the nut b4 the assembly and move the nut on the inside of the assembly in or out to tighten/loosen it.I would highly recommend buying a haynes or chiltons manual that has pics to show this and if ur rear brakes are old I would also pull the drums off to see that ur shoes are not worn out/and drums are not scared with scratches or grooves into the metal.If ur brake shoes are low on meaning less surface I would recommend to replace them and get ur drums machined at a machine shop or replace them if they show alot of wear.Worn shoes affects the parking brake because the over time it will create slack in the cables bc with less brake shoe suface the cable stretches farther and make it seem weak or u pull it further to set the brake.Check ur rear brake shoes/drums first if you have alot of miles on them,bc if they do adjusting the cables may just be a waste of time as a result.I just in nov 08 replaced my rear drums and shoes and believe me it makes all the difference.The drums were the originals and I have had the trk since new in march of 87.Hope this book gives you some insight.

With dial calipers, my closest estimate for the key size on a b2200 1987 to 199? is 3/4 inch in length, and width 190, height 240 to 250, I find that 230 is not tall enough, you may even want to check to be sure you have clearance behind the sprocket, as the shoulder on the crank and the spocket both wear down, Jack near Yelm is the brain on this.

ALSO - Never use a grinder to trim down a woodruff key, it is far to easy to destroy the hardness level of the key, too hard it damages the keyway, too soft it shears too easy, ONLY file with a clean sharp flat file, only put in soft clamp vise so you don't deform the key, finish the edges after filing to be as they were before you started, not sharp.

If a keyway is already damaged, you can clean with alcohol or something and scuff the keyway slot with a fine emery cloth, or a small sharpening stone, oil the key slightly so the putty won't stick to the key (no excess oil that might dirty of the slot when you set the key in), and use something like JB Waterweld to pack in beside the key carefully, making sure the key is properly lined up and seated at the bottom of the keyway, and remove the key after about 2 or 3 minutes, wait another 5 minutes more and gently file off any excess putty, before it hardens, trying to get the perfect contour of the shaft, and assemble the parts after about 1 hour, even though it says 20 minutes on the package for JB WaterWeld, since a crankshaft is colder than the air, it will cure slower than you expect. Make sure you torque the timing sprocket, and use a second person or some way to secure the crank by the flywheel, mark the ring gear with chalk so you can check to see if the sprocket turned any when you torqued it down. You may also want a drop of green locktite on the shaft snout to help keep it from turning later after its all together and running if you do have wear from it wobbling and slipping.

I find some of these STUPID types of crank snouts are never efficient and even from the factory spin and do damage. I recommend torques of 65 foot pounds to 100 foot pounds depending on sizes, and damage. Adding a thin shim of good hard steel not soft junk, to the back of the sprocket to compensate for wear of the back of the sprocket and front shoulder of the crank to keep the sprocket away from the timing case cover and front crank seal.

Get the dam politicians out of designing cars! Look at Toyota, how many people are dead now because of DUMB FUXLING designes and not using REAL PHYSICAL mechanical parts for controls of the vehicles? Nothing dumber than video game controls in something that life depends on!