In LoTR Warhammer strategy battle game you shoot in the shoot phase by rolling a certain dice number (varies on character) you hit but then roll to see if you wound them e.g elf archer shoots a goblin he hits on a 3+ and rolls a 4 then rolls a 5-6 to see if he kills the goblin.
It is similar in Warhammer 40k with the phases but the enemy rolls a save, or a roll to see if he lives.
12 points per model, 5-20 units per group.
There's no such thing as the best weapon. You can only define the best weapon for a already given situation.
The best weapon is the one that allow you to utilize your army as a whole.
But one weapon is never enough.
It's in your codex, it varies depending on how you field the squad as well.
For the Ultramarines
For the Orks
Yes you can, 10 of them in fact, so long as they are in regular Power Armor. Marines in Terminator armor are too big to fit into a Rhino.
This rule can be found in the Warhammer 40K rulebook, but due to copyrights we are not allowed to answer this question.
It determines how hard you hit in melee.
The Sword Masters of Hoeth or the Dragon Princes of Caledor. Each one is good; The Sword Masters are not expensive points wise and bring a great presence on th battle feild. The Dragon princes are great but are cavalry and therefore very expensive points wise.
Sergeants usually wear some kid of mark that shows their rank: different color on the helm, gauntlets, shoulder-pads etc. But also different weapons, armor, a flag, etc.
There are are numerous different thins that can differ between a regular battle brother and a sergeant. But the most usual is a different color on the helm or a laurel wreath.
Planetary Empires is Gamesworkshops answer to that. It is a customizable board and has rules for a Warhammer 40K campaign.
It really depends on the kind of army you're fielding. But mostly, it's your choice. If you have an army that has low points per model (ie. Imperial Guard, Tyranids) you may want to have lots of dice. And even though this should go without saying (and yes, for you veteran players, this does happen) Do not play with only one die. With one die, you'll end up looking like the worst kind of noob to the game, and that's a stupid noob.
You'll find the answer in the Lord of the Rings Rulebook.
Websites, stores or GW Customer Service will not give you this answer
There is no set amount of 'men' required to play Warhammer, as it is a points and unit based system. Each character or unit of 'men' (Elves, dragons, Chaos Space Marines, Monsters... the list goes on) is worth a set amount of points. When you play a game or Warhammer 40,000 or Warhammer Fantasy, you and your opponent will agree on a certain points limit for the battle.
You select units for your army, ensuring that the sum total of their points does not exceed the total agreed upon by the waring parties. The force you select also has to include certain elements, and these differ between then Warhammer systems.
To play a Warhammer 40,000 game, you have to have a HQ (Commander type character) and two units of troops.
For Warhammer Fantasy you must take a Lord, and two units of core.
The first product i recommend is Super Glue.
Super Glue will be great with plastic and metal and most companies make products that are now easy to apply in small amount, saving your fingers.
Polystyrene Glue. (commonly called plastic glue)
This product is normally available in gel or liquid form. You should use this product with plastic ONLY. It melts the parts together in minutes.
For big metal models, rare today, you can use Epoxy, a 2 parts glue that normally take over 24h to completely cure.
ALWAYS use all those products in a well ventilated area. Follow any other manufacturer recommendations if necessary.
Warhammer Fantasy is set in a Fantasy Medieval Earth, where magic, Orks, goblins, wizards, Chaos, elves, and other such creatures war with each other.
Warhammer 40,000 is set in a similar universe, but 40,000 years in the future, with different playable forces.
Warhammer Lord of the Rings is a similar table top game, but based on Tolkien's Middle Earth.
Gamesworkshop has made many amazing tabletop games. Warhammer 40k and Fantasy being there mainstay in business.
Warhammer Fantasy takes placed in a medieval fantasy realm, Where the Greenskins(Orkz,Goblins), Trolls,Ogre Kingdoms,Lizard men,Various Empire,High Elves,Dark Elves,Tomb Kings,Warriors of Chaos , Chaos Daemons, Night Goblins,Dwarves,Chaos Dwarves ,Vampire Counts, Beastmen, Skaven, and Wood Elves make alliances with each other and fight opposing sides.
Warhammer 40,000 also commonly known as 40k has a similar universe set in the future.
Space Marines,Imperial Guard,Daemon Hunters,Witch Hunters, Adeptus Mechanicus all on one side.
Chaos Space Marines and Chaos Daemons.
These factions are all combating over planets and territories for themselves.
All factions have there unique models, play style, and lore to them.
The models are either plastic or metal sometimes multi part kit, both metal and plastic pieces. There is materials needed to play this game including rulebook, codex for of the armies of your choice and 1 HQ and 2 Troop Choices to get playing and of course someone to combat. A local games workshop can get you started in this addicting and thrilling hobby.
Also, Warhammer is now an on-line MMORPG that you can buy in your local 'Game' stores.
It is a massively multiplayer online role-playing game based on Games Workshop's Warhammer Fantasy setting. It was developed by Mythic Entertainment and simultaneously released in North and South Americas, Europe, Asia, Australia and New Zealand on September 18, 2008. The game revolves around the continual worldwide conflict that the Warhammer Fantasy setting is known for, and the game is geared toward ongoing, constant war laced with dark humour.
Also, there is:
Warhammer 40,000: Dawn of War is a military science fiction real-time strategy video gamedeveloped by Relic Entertainment based on Games Workshop's popular tabletop wargame,Warhammer 40,000. It was released by THQ on September 20, 2004 in North America. Since its release, three expansion packs have been released: Winter Assault in 2005, Dark Crusade in 2006 and Soulstorm in 2008. The sequel, Dawn of War II was released in February 2009.
The Game of the Year edition was released on September 21, 2005 in the USA and on September 23 in Europe, containing 4 exclusive maps. Later, the Game of the Year edition and Winter Assault were bundled in the Gold Edition in the USA, released in March 2006. In November 2006, Dawn of War and its first two expansions were released together as The Platinum Collection in the USA or as the Dawn of War Anthology in the PAL regions. More recently, in March 2008, all three expansions along with Dawn of War have been released asThe Complete Collection.
Yes, because each miniature has been given appropriate (and fair)charactaristics by Games Workshop so it would be unfair to have random ones.
As it stands, no, the rules are severely outdated, though there are rumors of necrons being updated sometime before the end of 2011. If that is the case, then the Necrons will be a viable army to play again.
The Warhammer 40k rules have undergone more revisions than the LotR rules, and with that one could say Warhammer 40k is a better game, but it is a matter of personal opinion.
The A in a units profile stands for attacks.
You'll need to look in the Imperial Armor book from forge world
Most people create resin molds, as it is much easier to cast resin than plastic or metal, if you are limited in terms of machinery
Always wound on a specific roll (usually 4+) no matter your strength and the targets toughness.
If you would normally would wound the target on (example) 4+ (without poison) and have poison 4+ or better you may also re-roll.
Step 1: The First step in playing a game of Warhammer is to Build your army. Now this does not mean you must have 100's of painted miniatures on the table top. Yes that sure does look cool and I would strong encourage you to work toward that goal but to start with anything from pennies to slips of paper will work. What you do need to start with is the Army book you wish to play with. Inside this book there is tones of story and background about each army, but the key information is the army lists. To start your Warhammer character start with a small battle. You will need two core units and a Leader. Each army has a couple choices for core units and for the army leader. Read the stories and look for what appeals to you. Will your army be two solid blocks of spears and a knight on horseback leading? Or will you have two units of knights to thunder down your enemy and a Mage as your leader throwing fire balls. Feel free to mix and match your army choices and play test a couple different times to get what you like for your own style. The point value is the most important thing. Each model has a point value. Knights are the most points at well over 20 points a model, where foot men are far less, anywhere from 2 to 8 or 10 points depending on how much upgrades you give them. A good start would be a 500 point army. Well get building and see you at step two
Step 2: Ok so step one probably took you a good half hour or so. Now its on to step two. Setting up the battle field. for a small 500 point battle a 4'by 4' table will be more then fine. as you go to larger and larger battles 4' by 8' and bigger tables could be used. Now the second part of setting up the battle field is having things on the battle field. While some battles are fought in open fields, it is rare in life to find just a perfectly level field. Rolling hills, a tree here and there, a old wall are all things that could be found on the battle field. Now if you have been to any gaming store you will have seen many of these things, but for your first battle you may not have them. So throw a old book down as a hill top. Lay a paper towel roll down on its side to be a wall. A large round candle can make a great tower. Look around the house, there are tons of things to use. A general rule, tho by no means a hard rule, is for ever 2' by 2' space on your battle field, put 1 item down. so on a 4' by 4' table you would need four items. Placement can be done in many ways. One person could place them all and the other person pick sides, or you could randomly roll the dice and lay items down.
Step 3: OK now you have a 4 by 4 table laid down with items, Its time to deploy your army. This can be done in a couple ways. Simplest is roll dice against the person your playing and the winner picks sides. Or if one person set up the whole table the other gets to pick there side. Once you have the side of the table your going to deploy on, put down your first unit. Following this your enemy (on the battle field) will deploy one unit. Keep going back and forth starting with who ever deploys first until all forces are on the field. A low cost army like the Orcs might get 3 or 4 units for 500 points, where a high cost army like High Elves might only get the 2 units and there leader. Its OK don't let this fool you. The point system balances things out. There are more Orcs but the high elves are better fighters on a one on one bases.
Step 4: With both armies deployed its time to fight. Warhammer moves in turns. To start with you must determine who gets the first turn. Roll dice and the person with the highest gets to chose if they want there army rushing forward and taking the first turn, or if they would like to let the other person go first There are countless strategies on this point. And for that mater countless strategies in how you fight your battle. Are you going to be defensive take cover behind the wall and hope you can hold up to a charge from the enemy? Or are you going to rain fire down on them while your foot troops slowly advance Let a Mage soften up the enemy? The choice is yours, you are the general
Step 5: The turn of Warhammer consists of several phases. The first is movement Unless there are special rules for your army, based on the army books, the general move here is 4inches by foot men and 8 by mounted units. A good tape measure allows this to happen. If you are going to charge with a unit you can move 2x as far as normal, but they must reach the enemy. So now go and move your army
Step 6: Magic comes next. In this phase you cast any spells from your mage and defend against enemy spells. Your army creates 2 power dice. Each mage generates there own power dice according the the rules in there book. Anywhere from 1 to 4 dice could be generated from each mage. On defense your enemy will have two dispel dice and dispell dice generated from there mages. Again this is per the rules of each individual army. The way to cast spells is to pick the spell you wish, and then role a number of dice from your power pool up to the level of your mage plus one. So if you have a level 3 mage, you can use 4 dice. if you beat the number the spell requires you cast the spell. if you role two 6's its cast extra strong and your enemy can't dispel it. Be careful if you role two 1's that's bad news and check the miscast table in the main rule book. Your enemy can dispel with any or all of there dispel dice and if they roll higher then you did, the spell don't work. A good stradagy here would be to make your enemy use up all his dispell dice before you get to the spell you really want to cast
Step 7: Missile weapons come next. Each unit as a BS skill as listed in the army book. If the unit is armed with a missile weapon, be it bow, black powder gun, cannon, rock thrower, bolt thrower, blow gun, or anything else, it gets fired now. Some weapons have special rules, (Move-or-fire weapons for example) so check the army book for special rules. Assuming all weapons can fire, start with any weapon that is a guess weapons and shoot them first. (Cannons, rock throwers you must guess how far you want them fired) Work out the rules for each weapon as per the army book. Every big weapon like cannons rock throwers have special rules. Then fire your more regular weapons. These weapons all have a range. Nominate who you shoot at and then check range. If you come up short so too did your arrows. Roll a 6 sided dice for every model that fires. to hit, you must roll the number called out in the main rule book that is required for the BS of your troop. Many modifiers can come into effect. If the enemy is behind cover, if your firing from the high ground, if they are at long range etc. if you score a hit then you need to roll to wound. Each weapon as a strength score. this goes against your enemy's toughness. If they are equal numbers then you need to role a 4 or better on the 6 sided dice. if your strength is higher, you only need a lower number, if the enemy is tougher, then you might need to roll a 6 to wound.
Step 8: So you have soften up the enemy with a magic and missile now it comes time to get dirty. Close combat. This is played much as described in the missile section. Each model has a WS and that goes against the opponents WS. If both weapon skills are equal you will need a 4 to hit. Again all sorts of modifiers can be applied based on special rules of the troops and the weapons they fight with. once you work out who gets hit role to wound. Each model has a straight number. This goes against the toughness just like the missile weapons. Again if both are equal 4's are needed to wound.
Step 9: OK you moved, fire balled and shot, then fought in battle. Now comes the hard part, its your enemies turn to shoot, fireball and fight you back. Did you move your troops to good places? are they on the high ground? are they behind cover?
THIS IS ALL WRITTEN IN THE WARHAMMER RULEBOOK WHICH YOU NEED TO PLAY WARHAMMER
Roll 1d6 and Whatever it is, that's the Str
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