Modification of Old Electrical Work

My switch failed. I got the switch out ok (just put your hand up and pull the wire whilst pushing the switch up through the hole. The switch was badly burned, but I filed the contacts and then cable-tied the switch to the steel rod that secures the bottom of the fascia, so that as the pedal came up it opened the switch! You do need to remove the air link pipe to the o/s vent though as the switch protrudes into this space.

Hi Had same problem with my 306 and found easiest way was to unbolt the four bolts holding the steering column up and lowering it down as far as it will allow, then you can gain access to switch through small cut out on clutch side of brake pedal(very tight and awkward) but i did manage to replace mine......Hope this helps.

Brake switch on the 306 is mounted high up on the brake pedal. The access to it is from behind the fascia, in other words one big job stripping out all the instruments, glove box and everything else. may be able to access it by removal of the instrument (rev counter and speedo) panel. I am about to try this method if i can remove the top instrument screws, 1.5mm hex wrench but heads have become rounded. Would as yourself be glad to hear of a quicker fix.

I did my 2000 306 HDi today. Remove the plastic fuse box cover. Remove the convoluted air pipe. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the steering column and lower it as far as it will go. Sit in the seat (ie you dont have to be laying in the footwell upside down) put your hand in above the column and up through the hole, the switch is to the right, (RH drive car) pull the wire and the switch will come out of the hole in the bracket. Afrter plugging a new switch into the loom, push the switch throught the hole, turn on the ignition, keep pushing the switch in (it clicks every time it goes in further) until the brake lights go off. Press one more click. Bolt in column, replace air pipe and fuse box cover. Hard the first time, 20 minutes after you have done it!

Hi. Did my 306 1.9 TD XR 1998 yesterday. Unbolting and lowering the steering column did the job. Very easy, however be carefull when refitting the steering column as it allows some adjustmest from side to side. Watch for the marks made by nuts.

A circuit can be made to work with a hot and a ground. The normal and safe way is to use a neutral wire which is bonded at the electrical panel to the ground. The neutral wire is used as a return path for electricity back to your panel. If you were to use a ground wire instead of a neutral wire you are creating a potential hazard as the circuit now employs the ground as a return path for electricity. Any stray voltage caused by equipment faults will go through the grounding system and could produce a hazard to anyone as they become part of this circuit. It is not uncommon that people get an electrical shock if they touch both a live wire and a neutral wire. If you were to do that the current in the circuit would run through you. If you use an earth ground as the return path and are in contact with the hot wire and a ground you will get an electrical shock. The bottom line here is yes the light will work, the question I would have for you is "why don't you call an electrician to solve this potentially dangerous situation?".

Efficiency of the device.

How much work is applied to an object to make it move vs how much energy the object recieves.

I've seen the service entering very old homes without updated wiring to be 120v/30A. This was in a very old home wired in 1946. Homes in the 60's were being wired 120V/240V with 100A-150A services. Homes in the late 70s and early 80s were being wired with 200A services. In a lot of cases, this was to accommodate the use of all-electric appliances, including baseboard heat and water heaters. A few months ago, I helped wire a house with 2-200A breaker panels, with a 100A sub-panel in the garage. I've also heard of new larger homes being wired for 400A, 800A, and more. The sky is definitely the limit. For branch circuits: the amp ratings are generally 15A, 20A, 30A, 40A, and 50A.

This answer assumes that the sub panel will have a three wire feeding it with a supply of 120/240 volts. To maintain the voltage to a 2.5 % drop at the end of the 200 foot run, you will need to use 3 runs of #4 copper wire cable suitable for underground installations if installed in PVC conduit. You can also use 3C - #2 ACWU for direct burial. #4 copper wire is rated at 85 amps, #2 aluminum is rated at 95 amps. The reason for the larger sizes in the wire is to offset the voltage drop over the distance.

The conductor used to connect equipment or circuit to an earth electrode is earth bond or in some cases a supplementary bond. This will be generally carried out using a copper tape or an earth cable.

1 kVA (kilovolt-ampere) is equal to 1,000 VA (volt-ampere). The relationship between VA and watts depends on the power factor of the electrical system. For a system with a power factor of 1 (perfectly efficient), 1 kVA is equal to 1 kW (kilowatt). However, for systems with lower power factors, the relationship between kVA and kW will vary.

The circuit protected by a 32 amp circuit breaker will trip when the circuit loading reaches on or about 32 amps.

Theoretically a 32 amp breaker will not trip until current exceeds 32 amps. But this is affected by actual conditions such as ambient temperature, the integrity of the termination, the temperature of the breakers immediately adjacent to it, etc. In the United States the NEC requires that you not knowing load a breaker to greater than 80% of its rating. This avoids what is called nuisance tripping.

Most common MCBs have an inverse-time component. This means the higher the current the faster it will trip. A current of 100 amps caused by a short circuit will trip faster than 33 amps which would most likely be an overload condition. The difference may not be noticeable without testing equipment.

Oh, honey, 500VA is equal to 500 watts. VA stands for volt-amps, which is the apparent power in an electrical circuit, while watts are the real power. So, in this case, they're one and the same. Hope that lights up your day!

Not a good idea. The 15 amp fuse will be protection a #14 wire which is rated for 15 amps maximum capacity. By changing the 15 amp fuse to a 30 amp fuse you would then be allowing 30 amps maximum capacity on a #14 wire. By doubling the load the extra heat generated on the smaller wire could be enough to melt the insulation from the wire and that could cause the wire to short out. If the wire shorts out inside the wall it means the removal of the wall board to replace the wire to restore the circuit to an operational condition. The proper wire sizing for a 30 amp fuse is, #10 copper wire with an insulation rating of 90 degrees C.

For the lighting load the amperage is A = W/V = 600/120 = 5 amps. As for what will be plugged into the receptacles will be a guess for the calculations. I will give you a full 15 amps for receptacle loads at 120 volts. Total amperage is 20 amps.

The breaker for this circuit will be a 20 amp breaker but there may be a problem getting the #6 wire under the breakers terminal connection points. If this is the case use a #6 lug to connect to the breaker and connect the wire into the lug.

A #6 copper conductor will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less when supplying 20 amps for 200 feet on a 120 volt system.

Electric current produce magnetic fields. However, in the case of AC (alternating current, usual in households), the current changes so quickly (and the current has an average value of zero) that I am not sure the effect on a compass would be visible to the naked eye.

Electric current produce magnetic fields. However, in the case of AC (alternating current, usual in households), the current changes so quickly (and the current has an average value of zero) that I am not sure the effect on a compass would be visible to the naked eye.

Electric current produce magnetic fields. However, in the case of AC (alternating current, usual in households), the current changes so quickly (and the current has an average value of zero) that I am not sure the effect on a compass would be visible to the naked eye.

Electric current produce magnetic fields. However, in the case of AC (alternating current, usual in households), the current changes so quickly (and the current has an average value of zero) that I am not sure the effect on a compass would be visible to the naked eye.

Yes, but doubling the voltage on any piece of equipment is a sure way of destroying that equipment.

Yes the ampacity of #12 is 20 amps whereas the ampacity of #14 is 15 amps, so you are well within the range using #12 wire.

An electrical contractor has to have a contractors licence. A home owner can work on his own lighting fixtures. In the fluorescent fixtures now there is a quick connect plug that allows maintenance men to change ballasts without having to have an electrical licence. For maintenance men to qualify they have to be shown the correct procedure to change out a ballast from a qualified licenced person. This is usually a certified electrician.

My manifestation experience!

I needed a new job, especially in the middle of a pandemic. My current job is not doing so well and no longer flexible as before.

I woke up one day and started walking around my house and speaking out loud. I started off saying a job will find me. I will not put effort into looking for one. A recruiter will find me and offer me a job in the same exact field I’m currently in, doing the same exact role , that has working from home benefits and called specifically to the salary I’m looking for.

The very next day, a recruiter sent me a message on LinkedIn. Asking me if I’m interested in this job. Which was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I was hired that week and went through the interview process like a breeze, and my salary was just 2k shy of what I was manifesting.

A meter rule is apropriate as it can measure up to unlimited meter while micrometer is suitable for diameter since it has a high degree of accuracy to small diameters in millimeters.

I assume you are referring to a residential electric panel. The amount of amps has nothing to do with the voltage. They are independent. A typical residential electric panel will have 120 V. That is the easy answer. Usually there are two hot feeds with 120 V to ground. Between the two hot feeds will be 240 V. The bus bars are arranged in the panel so that when you plug in breakers they alternate between the feeds.

To power your 3200 watt subwoofers effectively, you should look for an amplifier that can deliver at least 3200 watts RMS (Root Mean Square) power output at the impedance (ohms) of your subwoofers. It's important to match the impedance of your subwoofers with the amplifier to ensure optimal performance. Additionally, consider factors like amplifier efficiency, distortion levels, and compatibility with your audio setup when selecting the amplifier.

Conduit is piping for electrical wiring. Steel conduit is the most common conduit used. It is often left visible in industrial atmospheres and can be seen running to electrical outlets, lighting panels, electrical panels, etc.

An electrical conduit is a tube used to protect and route electrical wiring in a building or nonbuilding structure. Electrical conduit may be made of metal, plastic, fiber, or fired clay. Most conduit is rigid, but flexible conduit is used for some purposes.

yes the current has to travel back to the source, so it needs the neutral wire for its return path

The formula for watts is, Watts = Amps x Volts.

W = Amps times Volts. A = W/V, A = 300/120 = 2.5 amps