Modification of Old Electrical Work

For a 50-foot run with a 6.3-amp load at 240 volts, you can use 14-gauge wire as it can safely handle up to 15 amps. If you want to take into account voltage drop for longer runs, you may opt for even thicker wire like 12-gauge to minimize power loss. It's always a good idea to consult with a professional electrician for accurate recommendations.

14 gauge wire is rated for 15 amps wich is the smallest size breaker that is used in the US. I never heard of or saw a 10 amp breaker and I am a licesened electrical contractor

The 2008NEC (NFPA70) lists 16AWG copper allowed for up to a 10 amp CB, and 18AWG copper for up tpo a 7 amp CB, max current. Continuous loads must be derated to 8 amps and 5.6 amps respectively, see NFPA 70 2008, §240.4 (D) (1), (2)., but these are only going to be found in industrial applications.

Would the asked be so kind as to tell us what kind of equipment the 1 amp breaker is on?

14 AWG is still the minimum for a 15amp CB in general, this change might not be wise without an electrician looking at the entire circuit.

Using different wattage halogen bulbs on a track can cause uneven lighting and potentially overload the track's wiring system. It is best to use bulbs of the same wattage to ensure consistent lighting and prevent any electrical issues.

This type of question usually means you aren't ready to do this yourself. Study some electrical material and the National Electrical Code and work this answer out for yourself. If I were to give you an answer, you might attempt to do something you shouldn't be doing, and that may cost someone a shock, a home fire, or their life.

A 15 amp breaker will trip at 15 amps at an ambient temperature of 40 degree C. If the ambient temperature is higher the breaker will trip before 15 amps and if the ambient temperature is lower the breaker will trip after 15 amps.

The recommended amp size for 22 gauge wire is typically around 3 amps. However, it is recommended to consult the specific ampacity chart provided by the National Electrical Code (NEC) or a qualified electrician for accurate information based on the application and conditions.

Actually nothing will happen , unless an short occurs in a electrical box, or, an appliance. Electricity aways returns to a neutral wire in the service panel. A grounding wire is a safety feature providing another source of return current when a short occurs They usually are connected to a grounding pole 8 feet into the earth.

To make a load calculation, you'd need the voltage (volts) and the current (amps) in the distribution line. That would give you the power consumption (watts), and you could find that by multiplying volts times amps. P = I x E [Power equals current times voltage.]

At 120 Volts your heater is drawing about 12.5 Amps. If your house only had 120 V then it would draw 13.6 Amps.

Problems could be

1.) Other devices on same circuit.

2.) Internal short in the heating element that reduced resistance and increased current.

3.) Faulty heater in that it really delivers more than 1500 watts because heating elements are less resistance than rating would require.

4.) Faulty breaker.

These are in order of likelihood. You are close enough to the limit of the breaker that it could be any of these things. Typically you should not exceed 80% of the breaker rating and that is just where you are operating.

If the neutral and hot wires touch on the same pole of a light switch, it can cause a short circuit. This can result in overheating, potential damage to the electrical system, and a risk of fire. It is important to address this issue promptly by disconnecting the power and fixing the wiring.

You can as long as the rating of the inverter supports the 1500 watt power requirement at the operational voltage of the bulb. There may be a surge at start-up of the bulb so that has to be taken into account.

Without specific information I cannot answer your question, however you can work it out.

For a dc or single phase system you need to know 2 simple laws. P=V x I & V=I x R

where:

P = power in watts

V = Voltage in Volts

I = Current in Amps

R=Resistance in Ohms

we can therefore derive that since I=V/R and P=V x I then P=V x V/R or vsquared over R

or in your case R = V(squared) / P = 12 x 12 / 30 = 144/30 = 4.8 ohms

Now use the formula supplied with your voltage value, and you will know what the resistance is .

See isn't math fun.

There are 1,000 miliamps in 1 amp. As the NEC limits you to loading a lighting circuit to no more than 80% you can have 16 amps or 16,000 miliamps on that circuit. That would mean you can have 2,000 lamps of 8 miliamps each.

Yes, providing the phase is the same. but you can't do the other way around, or breaker will immediately pop, or fuse will blow.

Yes, but you will need to ensure that a 5-A fuse is fitted inside the plug. '13-A' is its nominal rated current; the actual current is determined by the load which, in your question is 5 A. So a 5-A device is perfectly safe to use with a 13-A plug.

Watts = Amps x Volts x Power Factor

If you are talking about a light bulb or similar 60 watt device at 120 VAC the answer is 1/2 amp using standard household voltage and a power factor of 1.

It's best if you just make a policy of never replacing a fuse with anything larger. Engineers have calculated the maximum SAFE circuit draw on an electronic device, and you should not use a fuse that will not provide adequate protection to the circuit.

It sounds like .15 amp difference shouldn't cause trouble, but it's not a good idea.

Using larger wire sizes will not reduce amp draw. The amp draw is determined by the electrical device or load connected to the circuit, not the wire size. Larger wire sizes are used to reduce voltage drop and heat generation in the wiring, but they do not directly affect the amp draw of the circuit.

In the wall switch box you should have a white and black pair from your source of power (120 volts). The other pair of black and white wires from the wall box should be going to the light fixture junction box. With the power off, connect the two white wires together with a wire nut. Connect the two bare copper ground wires together making sure that at least one of the ground wires goes under the green screw in the switch junction box. Turn the switch to the off position, no little indicator bump showing on the switch toggle lever. Now take the black incoming hot wire and put it under the top screw on the switch. Hot wires always go to the top of switches. Now put the black wire that is going to the light fixture under the bottom screw. Tighten both. Install the switch into the wall box with the switch handle in the down position. All switches when installed must be off in the down position. Install the switch plate cover.

I am guessing that the dryer is 220-240 VAC as is the compressor. I also assume that the third wire on the dryer is a ground. You need to make sure that the metal chassis on the compressor is not connected to the two wires. You then need to create a covered junction box where you have the two existing wires and a ground wire that you connect to the compressor metal chassis with a screw type connector. Ground wire should be 10 AWG. Now you have three wires. Connect the two hot wires of supply to two original wires on compressor and ground wire to the chassis ground.

You should not use any wire smaller than 8 AWG COPPER in a 40 amp breaker. If you have any questions about your application, you should contact a local electrical contractor for your own safety.

Your ballast should show two wires for supply side of ballast. Make sure that neither side of this is grounded to the light and connect the 220 V from your breaker to these two wires and then connect a ground to the chassis of the light from the panel.

A neutral white wire should typically have little to no voltage under normal conditions in a properly functioning electrical system. However, it is always important to use a multimeter to verify the absence of voltage before working on any electrical wiring.

240V is much more effecient, and you can put more heaters on a 20 amp circuit than you can a 120V.