the tps is in differant places on cars and trucks, but most are on side of throttle body at throttle plate.
My service engine soon light just came on for the third time. The first time is was something valve related in Jan 2004. My regular guy thought it might be a simple fuel injection service but wisely pointed me to the dealer for firm diagnosis - $900. The second time, Oct 2004, it was the 02 sensor - $300 Today, Oct 2004, who knows? This is getting to be an expensive car. I wouldn't reset it myself without checking to see the cause. And, as will most things Nissan, dealer only, or you'll have to pay dealer diagnosis fees on top of whatever work your regular guy did.
You may be able to clear it by removing the negative battery terminal for 1 minute.
I have a 97 maxima, check engine soon light was on for a while before I needed an inspection. You can reset the light with a screw driver, the screw you need to turn for 5 seconds is located by the gas pedal, this will also diagnose the problem with a series of blinking lights at the check engine soon light location. Once it was reset the check engine soon light went off. I brought it in for inspection, but didn't pass. I was given a pamphlet on what to do once you reset. I can't remember all the things you need to do, that's why I was on this sight. One of the things was to drive 55 mph, then come to a stop without touching the brakes...there were two or three other things you needed to do. After I did those things, I brought it back and it passed. Unfortunatley the lights back on again this year and I was looking for those instructions again.
Hint to "Autozone" answer......just took my 2000 to them to reset the light after the car was worked on by someone who didn't have machine to reset the CIL....Autozone said they could no longer reset light (new law) BUT he said I could borrow the tester (in the parking lot) and he couldn't tell me what I could or couldn't do to my car.........so I took it and reset it myself :)
The dealer told my daughter that she had a California emission car and that the light just had to be re-set. So, for the first few states she lived in, it was re-set for free. I now own the car in NY. I couldn't pass an inspection witht he light on. Cost $150 to re-set it. Mechanic told me to take to dealer and get fixed, per a service bulletin he showed me. Mechanic could not guarantee that light would not come back on. Went to dealer who ignored my request to re-set "check engine light" per my mechanic's instructions. However, he did charge $200 for the traction control code that the computer was showing. You guessed it! My check engine light is back on and it's time for an inspection in May. I guess I'll have to pay at least $150 to pass my inspection again? That lights been on nine times since the car was purchased. Sometimes it goes out by itself. Anyone experience similar problems?
Posted: 8/4/2006 I purchased the CarChip E/X (http://www.davisnet.com/drive/products/drive_product.asp?pnum=08221) on Ebay for $85.00. Not only does it reset your CEL (I own a 1999 Maxima SE) but you can capture 300 hours of various run-time statistics from the Engine Control Unit (ECU Computer). I have done this for my Oxygen Sensors as the chip would report that an O2 sensor triggered the CEL. After capturing and analyzing the data, I suspect that occasionaly the software gets too trigger happy and turns the light on. I turn it off and I'm good for another few months. It's always the same O2 sensor. Get yourself one of these chips. The chip installs in seconds into the OBD-II port by the drivers left knee under the dash. It comes with either a serial of USB interface for a standard Windows PC to download the data and to issue the reset code when it is re-installed into the vehicle. The CEL usually goes out within 10 seconds of starting the car. It's the best tool I ever bought for my Maxima.
I used the screw on the bottom right of the accelerator to diagnose and reset the Service Engine Soon light on my 1997 Maxima. The following are the steps to to complete a drive cycle so the computer goes back into the "Ready" state (well what I read it was anyway): 1)Idle in Drive for 2 1/2 mins (A/C and rear Defrost on) 2)Turn A/C and dfreost off - acc to 55mph half throttle 3)Hold at 55MPH for 3 mins 4)Decelerate to 20MPH WITHOUT breaks 5)Return to 55MPH 3/4 throttle 6)Hold at 55-60MPH for 5 mins 7)Dec to stop WITHOUT breaks. That should be one cycle.
Back in the old days, cars used an oil pressure gauge - and then along came what are sometimes referred to as "idiot lights" that took their place.
The very same function is being performed: letting the driver know if the oil pressure, therefore the oil levels are getting low.
The flickering light lets you know the oil level is right at the point of being able to trigger the light on the dash.
Also, when the engine is just idling, the pressure is lower and light goes on. When the car is moving though, the engine is turning over faster and the pressure builds up and the light goes off.
The #1 cause of engine failure is engine oil neglect - running oil too long between changes (if any at all!), and running with not enough oil.
The Owners Manual will have all the details and even illustrations on how to take care of your car's oil.
Low oil level. Add oil. Oil pump defective, oil sending unit defective, low oil, bad guage.
1. Defective switch 2. Short in wiring 3. Worn oil pump 4. Worn bearings Hook a direct reading guage to the place where the switch screws in to see what the actual pressure is. If the pressure is good, look for electrical trouble.
Things You'll Need:
Ramps or a floor jack Jack stands Drain pan Ratchet New drain plug washer Torque wrench New transmission fluid Step 1: Drive the accord for 15 to 20 minutes to bring the car to a normal operating temperature. Raise the vehicle with ramps or a floor jack. Support it securely with jack stands. Step 2: Place a large drain pan on the ground beneath the transmission. Find the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission and remove it with a ratchet. Step 3: Allow the fluid to drain out until it stops. Install the drain plug with a new washer. In Honda Accords from 1990 to 2000, tighten the drain plug to 36 foot pounds with a torque wrench. In Accords from 1984 to 1989, tighten the plug to 29 foot pounds. Step 4: Refill the transmission with Honda Premium Transmission Fluid. Alternatively, you can use Dexron III automatic Transmission Fluid. Measure the amount of fluid that drained from the transmission and put the same amount of new fluid into the transmission using a funnel. Take care not to overfill the transmission, as this can cause damage. Step 5: Return the Accord to level ground. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a minute or two. Move the gear selector through all the gears, ending in the "Park" position. Step 6: Check the automatic transmission fluid level. Add enough fluid to bring the level to 1/8 inch below the "Add" mark on the dipstick. Step 7: Let the engine run for 15 to 20 minutes to allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Check the fluid level again. The fluid level should be within the "Hot" range on the dipstick. If it isn't, add fluid as needed. If the fluid level is correct, replace the dipstick and close the hood. Tips & Warnings
The intervals at which you change the automatic transmission fluid may vary depending on the year model and the conditions under which you operate the car. Be careful while draining the transmission fluid because it's very hot.
On the automatic transmission, the drain plug is located on the passenger side of the transaxle, near the front of the RF tire. Use a ratchet with a 3/8" extension to remove it (with no socket!), the plug is facing the side of the car.
Note: Changing the transmission fluid at recommended intervals is a good idea from a maintenance standpoint, but if you're having shifting problems, changing the fluid usually doesn't solve them.
Do not attempt to remove the housing. Attack from the underside.
Turn the wheel so that it points out. Pull back the thin black covering in the wheelwell part way. This is done by starting at the front of the car and part way up the wheelwell. You will need to remove two screws and one black snap button. (If the button breaks, you can get them at the dealership for pennies.) You should now have access to the bulb socket.
Entire process should take approximately 10 minutes.
Hi John, You need to find the number 1 cylinder. It is the front left spark plug when setting in the drivers seat. Take the number 1 spark plug out and turn the engine over by hand with a screw driver in the number 1 spark plug hole to find top dead center on compression stroke. You will have top dead center when the piston is at the very top. Line up the mark on the crankshaft balancer with the pointer on the engine block. Should be front left by the bottom v belt pully looking under the hood. Put the distributor in with the rotor pointing to the Number 1 spark plug wire. Firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 going clock wize. Firing alinement is (looking under the hood) 1 right 2 left 3 right 4 left 5 right 6 left 7 right 8 left. Should be marked on the intake manifold. If the engine doesn't run after installing. You are 180 degrees off. Remove the distributor just far enough to turn the rotor a half a turn and drop back in. Reinstall the lock and try again. Timing is either TDC or 4 degrees before TDC depending on your hp. .
John. This is the way to do it:
a- No need to remove any plug.
b- To find the number one, remove the drivers side valve cover. Turn the engine until the zero mark on the harmonic balancer lines with the mark on the pointer.
c- look at the valve lifters of the number one cylinder-the first pair on the head at the front of the head. Both should be free of any lift. If there is no lift on either valve, then you are at Top Dead Center of the #1 cylinder and jump to step (e) below. If there is lift on one of the #1 cylinder valves you are actually on the Top Dead Center of #6 cylinder and in this case go to the next step.
d- Turn the engine one full turn until the zero mark is lined up again on the balancer and the pointer-as before.
e- Put the valve cover back on. Bolt it down tight.
f- With the distributor out of the car, using a flash light look down into the distributor hole on the engine. About 10" down you will see a slotted shaft. This is the oil pump shaft. It is free to turn for now.
g- Obtain a long screwdriver to reach that slot. With the front of the car ponting to an imaginary North, turn the screwdriver until that slot is oriented North Eeast direction. Another way is to turn the slot towards the number 5 spark plug on the engine. Its about the same.
h- Install the cap on the distributor and with a color felt pen, draw a straight line along the tower of the number one plug and extend that line down onto the distributor body. After you do this undo the cap from the distributor housing.
i- With the distributor in your hand, turn the rotor in a way that it points about 1.5 inches clockwise from the mark you made above on the body. Remember to have the gasket between the distributor body and intake on before you attempt to drop the distributor in.Hold the rotor in that position and have mark towards the front of the engine.
j- Slowly insert the distributor into its hole on the intake manifold. Keep it in your hold and maintain position of rotor with mark and mark with front of engine.
When you feel that the distributor touched the oil pump shaft it will begin to want to position itself- the rotor will move towards the mark. Remove your hold of the rotor. See if it will continue to go down and at the same time you will notice that the rotor will want to rotate towards the mark until it lines up with the mark.
k- This is a delicate step and you need to be patient. Don't let frustration creep in. There is a little trial and error here because you want to simultaneously marry the gears as well as the female slot of the oil pump with the male end on the distributor so bear with it. Those that have done it in the past usually do not get it right from the first attempt.
l- very likely it wont work and the distributor will not bottom out on the intake. Take the distributor out and using the screwdriver turn the slot in the hole one way or another no more than 1/16 of an inch and try the above procedure again. Once the distributor bottoms out it means it interlocked properly but you still need to check that the following are noticed.
-the rotor is in line with e mark
-with the cap in position, the door is straight forward, 1/2" +or -
-the vacuum can is pointing to the right; 30-40 degrees.
m- install the distributor hold down and tighten down enough to be able, without force, to rotate distributor body for timing adjustment. In other words leave some friction to let it stay in position after start up.
n- Connect the vacuum line, spark plug wires. Double check that plug wire #1 on the engine goes on #1 at the distributor. Similarly for each of the remaining 7 wires.
o- Recheck that your balancer TDC mark is in line with the zero mark on the pointer plate. Make a visual check that you left no tools or stuff that should not be there. Check belt tensions and fluids.
p- Start the engine. If it starts adjust timing to specs, and you are done. If the engine does not want to start, and all wires are in place do a spark check to see that there is a spark in the plugs. If that is OK double check that gas is getting to your engine. If that is OK go to (q) below. If either of the latter two fails the test, correct the problem and continue.
q-start by removing red wire from the coil and remove the distributor cap but leave the plug wires on. Remove the driver side valve cover and turn the engine to TDC on the balancer.
X- If the valve springs are both be up-i.e. no compression on either. In other words they are at equal level then the engine Cylinder #1 is at TDC.
y- If the valve springs are unequal and one is compressed then you are on engine Cylinder #6 TDC.
Look at the rotor on the distributor:
IF (X) above is the case the rotor should point to #1 plug wire tower on the distributor cap. If it is not it should point to #6 tower on distributor cap -and GO TO (Z)
IF (Y) above is the situation, the rotor should point to the #6 plug wire tower on the distributor cap. If not it should point to #1 plug wire cap -GO TO (Z)
otherwise skip Z
Z- Undo the distributor hold down. Gently pull the distributor straight out about 1.5 inches. Exactly straight up 1.5'. Hold it there. With one hand holding the distributor, rotate the rotor 180 degrees. Re-lower the distributor down. It will go back in without an issue and reinstall the hold down. Reinstall the wires you disconnected and the car should start up.
You have to go under the car and remove the plug, there is one at the bottom this is the drain and there is one on the side of the transmission.
I have a 1996 Caprice, I assume it's the same method. You turn the key to the "on" position. Fully depress the accelerator three times within 5 seconds. Then turn the key off. When you restart the car, it should be reset.
this did not work
the light is on because there is a problem you can unhook battery for a few mins if the light comes back on after take it to a mechanic and have it scanned for trouble codes
The response "press pedal 3 times" is incorrect, however, this is how to reset the CHANGE OIL light on the Caprice.
CHANGE OIL lights don't exist on the Camaro.
Read what he said below~ O'Riley will look at it too, I'm sure those new AutoZone places will too. But you might want to get it fixed not just unhook the battery. Could be just a misfire.
Just take it to any AutoZone and ask them to read your codes (they hook up a code reader which gives them/you an idea of your problem) and reset you ecu/computer its a free service Could just be your gas cap O2 sensors tune up or a hundred other and worse things.
timing marks ,they are rigth on the gear box get the piston #1 all the way up and make sure the mark rigth on the gear box where the gap is in 0 and the rotor pointing the piston one and that's it it should work excuse my English i am Mexican .
TAke it to auto zone and have the codes read and cleared for free.
unhook the battery for 1 hr if there is no prob it wont come on agian
Most vehicles have a reset button accessible from the accessory fuse panel which is usually behind the dash panel where the shotgun passenger door opens up. Turn the key to the on position and press and hold the reset button for about 10 seconds. The lights should flash and the codes will be reset. The light may come on again if the problem still persists.
No, it doesn't. It uses a "passlock" system. The resistor, or "chip" is part of the ignition lock cylinder.
The chip in the key is called "passkey", where there is a resistor in the key, which is quite visible.
I've been a xterra owner for about nine years.if refer to your owners manual it will tell you that it 31/2 quarts.
The only way to reset the Check Engine light on the Xterra or any other modern car is through the use of an OBDII diagnostic reader. You can take the car to most any mechanic and have them do it - they usually charge around $25 or so to do it. Or you can purchase an OBDII reader and do it yourself. The most inexpensive readers cost around $80. More expensive readers have more features that most DIY'ers don't need. The OBD reader plugs into a socket, usually below the steering column - it is always within a foot or so. The reader will display error code(s) that caused the check engine light to come on, and has a feature to reset the error code. Remember that if you haven't fixed the problem that caused the Check Engine light to come on in the first place, it will come back on again. Some causes are simple - in my Toyota Corolla, the gas cap was loose and caused the CE light to come on. But it can be caused by anything from a transmission problem to a catalytic converter problem. The OBD reader displays a code that can be looked up online or via software provided with the reader which will tell you what caused the problem.
Pretty positive they don't have one.
It is pumped in from the front washer reservoir.
My 2000 Avalon did not have a filter installed when I purchased it but don't worry, it is configured for a cabin filter to be installed. The procedure to install a cabin filter is no different than for the newer models. The instructions come with the cabin filter itself (Toyota part # 88880-41010).
1) Remove undercover. 2) Pop off the airbag harness cover with a screwdriver. 3) Pass the airbag harness cover through the opening. 4) Remove 3 screws and 2 bolts holding the glove box. 5) Remove trunk opener switch connector (if applicable) and remove the glove box. 6) Remove the filter tray and replace the filter (hold the left and right knobs at both ends of the filter case at the same time and pull out the knob to the front). 7) The filter must be assembled with the "UP" mark on the filter facing the same direction as the same mark on the filter case.
Right answer: do not mess with the airbag(dangerous!!) or yellow /white cables. open the glove box and let it fully open by squeezing the tabs that hold it up and any cables. you will see a slot that the filter goes in, usually has tabs that keep it shut. open the cover and remove the filter. this particular model may have to remove the sorrounding cover, just remove 4 or 5 screws that hold the sorrounding glove box assembly and reassemble.
Usually you can simply disconnect the negative battery terminal (while vehicle is not running), wait a few seconds, then reconnect it. I've used this to reset the warning light on a 1989 Chevy pickup (and other makes & models).
The only way to erase the check engine light on a 96 and newer vehicle is with a SCANNER ALL 96 and newer cars, truck, and SUV's have a computer that's called OBD II (On Board Diagnostics generation 2) The "remove the battery cable trick" only works on some 95 and older vehicles
Disconnect the neg battery terminal, wait 15 mins, then reconnect, but DO NOT START YOUR TRUCK! wait 30 mins then start.....Why? you ask, computers in Chevys and Fords had about a 100th of the speed as your desktop computer, so when the battery is reconnected it takes about 20-30 mins to reboot properly.....also you will get better gas mileage...at least 2mpg better.
These may work; I don't know. I do know if it works, but the actual problem that caused it to come on isn't fixed. It will come back on again when computer reads it.Most autoparts stores will do a free check on your car with an OBD reader. It will tell you what's wrong; could be a bad censor to your fuelcap being loose. Try that route for permanent fix.
ask UHaul - you can bet that their lawyers have given them guidelines as to what cars can adequately pull the trailer. Their advertising says that basically any car can pull it. The main question should be what your hitch is rated for.
The 1999 Ford Escort officially can only pull 1000lbs (see owners manual). So the answer really depends on 2 things - whether the loaded trailer will weigh more than 1000lbs and how comfortable you are exceeding that limit assuming that your trailer hitch is rated for more than 1000lbs.
I am fitting my 1999 Escort wagon with a 2000lb hitch for pulling a small pop-up tent trailer this week, so have nothing further to report on the little car's ability to pull a trailer weighing slightly more than 1000lbs up long grades, etc.
A few things to consider when towing a trailer:
- go slow - leave lots of extra room to stop - use lower gears on hills and grades to reduce likelihood of engine overheating - turn off air conditioning on uphill grades
Something for you to consider.
The Haynes repair manual for this model and year states that "Special tools and practices are required to remove the rotors."
This however, is not usually the case. Most models are equipped with "normal" rotors which can be identified by the presence of two large Phillips screws on the "hub" of the rotor.
You will need to remove the brake caliper and bracket first.
If you have the model with two large Phillips screws holding the rotor on, remove the screws. You may need to use an impact driver with a Phillips head bit to break loose the corrosion and rust. Once these are removed, your rotor should come off. If not, give it a few taps with a rubber mallet. The rotor itself sets on the hub.
If the rotor is "frozen" to the hub from rust and corrosion, spray PB Blaster on the back of the rotor where the hub meets the rotor, between the lug bolts, inside the two holes where the Phillips screws were and anywhere else you can get to so that the lubricant gets between the hub and rotor. Let it work for a few minutes, 15-20 minutes for worse corrosoion.
If you intend to re-use the rotors, put a block of wood on the rotor and hit the block of wood with a heavy hammer.
It may take several very hard whacks with a good sized hammer to breat the rotors free. As long as you have the model with the two Phillips screws, keep banging and rotor will come off.
Alternately, screw an appropriately sized high-strength bolt in the threaded hole on the hub of the rotor and keep driving it until the rotor breaks free. DO NOT USE THE PHILLIPS SCREWS that hold down the rotor as they are not strong enough and you WILL end up shearing them.
The large nut in the center is for the transaxle shaft. This does not have to be removed to get the rotors off. If you did take it off, make sure that you torque down the transaxle shaft bolt to the spec required in the repair manual and put a new retaining bolt on (refer to the repair manual.)
Hopefully this will help you.
** If anyone has information on the "special practices and procedures" required to remove the other kind of rotors from the hub, PLEASE post it.
as i have already done this twice i can say i have it down to an art
You will need...
a hydraulic or pneumatic press
32 mil socket and rattle gun
all the other tools needed to remove brake caliper
remove the hub by removing all ball joints and remove bottom bolt.now remove the split pin that holds the nut then give it aal the rattleguns got to remove thisYOU WILL NEED TO HAMMER OUT THE CV!LIFT THE HUB OFF AND SET IT ROTOR SIDE UP IN THE PRESS(it will be tricky setting this up depending on press)press out the wheel bearing and then the rotor from the hub you will see 4-5 bolts remove these and rotor will separate fit new rotor replace or re-use bearing and re fit
I am not familiar with this model, but best guess is to remove the wheel and caliper and go from there. There should be tutorials all over the internet if you Google something like "replace rotors diy"
Facing the engine, look down at the top, left of the crank pulley. You will see a post sticking out of the block. With the engine running, if you shine a timing light at the post you will see six notches on the pulley itself, right at the edge of the belt. Going from left to right the notches represent 10ATDC, TDC (red), 10BTDC, 20BTDC, 30BTDC, 40BTDC. The Top Dead Center notch is actually painted red, all the others are either rust or grease colored depending on how bad you valve cover gasket is leaking. Keep in mind this is only for the initial timing at idle of 20BTDC. Any rpms beyond idle and the ECU takes over the ignition timing, you have very little control here. The method for setting is to unplug the throttle pos. sensor, set idle to 650 and set to 20 BTDC. When you reconnect the TPS the rpms should increase to 750. Either way 750 is your optimal rpm and all adjustment must be done with the TPS disconnected, only disconnect and reconect the TPS with the ignition off. Never yank it or plug it in while the car is running. P.S. Try to keep all of your fingers here, its a tight spot to see down to those marks. ---Brandon Garretson ------89 240SX
I have a Nissan Xterra 04 with the same problem, and here's a link with the procedure and it work for me, also work on the Nissan Frontier,the Nissan Armada and I think this will work on more Nissan Models, I hope this will help more people since this is a common failure of Nissan.
I found more links.
The Process is :
If your Airbag Light is flashing on your Nissan it will not go off until it is reset. You can take it to your dealer, but most likely they will reset it (and probably charge you) and tell you if it comes back on there might be a problem and then they will do further diagnostics or replace the wiring harness (this is very expensive). For some reason this sensor trips quite frequently and we used this procedure a lot at the a Nissan Dealership I worked for. This works for most if not all Nissan models. Follow these directions-
1. Turn the key from off to on.
2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.
3. Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .) Don't rush this or it will not work.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.
5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.
6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.
If it does not work the first time, just repeat the steps again.
Service engine soon reminders do not have codes
It would have been kind of you to answer the question. You didn't, or can't and you wasted time I will never get back.
On most cars the service engine soon light is the check engine light.
Service required has to do with oil changes.
The oil change light is reset differently on each make/model.
No! Replace at 80,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.
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