Saab

900S 1993/98 Engine code B2341 Firing order 1 3 4 2.

crash it.

Start by checking the fuses.

Try putting the gas pump nozzle in all the way and then pull it back about 1 inch

That's what I have to do to keep the gas pump from kicking out every few seconds

9.5 squared is 90.25

"Svenska Aeroplan AB (aktiebolaget)" (Swedish for "Swedish Aeroplane Limited") (SAAB) was founded in 1937 in Trollhättan, with the merger of SAAB and Linköping based ASJA.

On what? Need more information.

Replace the small looking shocks. That's what holds the door up.

What year and model? Under what conditions?

The dash lights are designed to stay on in certain models. Saab 900s from about 1987 on will have dash lights come on any time the ignition switch is in the ON position, whether or not the headlight switch is turned to ON.

Saab edition

what year is your Saab? if its older like an 84 to 94 Saab 900 then a Google search leads to a couple sites that give well photographed step by step procedures.

http://www.classicsaab.net/library.HTML

http://www.pastonroot.co.UK/wright/headgr.htm

http://townsendimports.com/Web/engine_folder/headgasket90016v.htm

http://www.twinsaabs.com/900_repair/diyhead/intro.asp?nsteps=8

http://www.twinsaabs.com/

twinsaabs is a great rescource

8 4 1 5 9

7 3 2 6 10

First stage 44.3 ft lbs

Second stage 59.0 ft lbs

Third stage tighten an additional 90 degrees torque

Most likely a fuse problem. If not a bad fuse then check wiring.

2.0t

No. At least they didn't USED to all have turbos. In the 1995 models, there were at least two engine choices, a turbocharged 4 cylinder and an non-turbo 6 cylinder.

WINK adds: The first SAAB, the 1950 model 92, had a two-cylinder, 750cc, two-stroke engine. The first turbocharged Saab was the 1978 Saab 99 Turbo, which started the turbocharging revolution for smaller engined sedans.

All 900s 1993-1998

are listed as 10W/30 for the manual gearbox

"Yes, there is a website for buying secondhand Saab's in the United States. One can use craigslist or autotrader to find secondhand Saab's for sale in the United States."

In the tool kit that's under the lid of the spare tire well, you'll find this weird tool consisting of two U-shaped pieces of steel rod tied together with a chain. The radio has four holes in the face, two on the left side, two on the right.

Stick one steel rod in each pair of holes - the radio will look like it has little handles. Put your thumbs on the inboard sides of these rods and press out - this is to bind up the rods in the holes. Then give the rods a good pull, and the radio will slide right out. This is how we kept our stereos from getting ripped off before they had detachable faceplates...we just took the whole radio out and locked it in the trunk.

Now for the fun part: You probably wanted to get the old radio out so you could put a nicer one in. You will have to find the bent-in tabs on the radio sleeve and bend them out somehow so you can remove the sleeve, because your new radio won't work with the old sleeve.

The head gasket on your vehicle is blown, please see a mechanic as soon as possible. The smoke is quite polluting.

1,174kg / 2,583 lbs

If you have followed the procedure in the manual and it will not respond be sure the emergency brake is pulled on because the older convertibles have an interlock switch tied into the emergency brake to stop people from trying to put the top up or down when moving.

This could be your problem.....or not ....the new cars have several sensors that all must work or no top operation and ti can get VERY expensive to keep them working. A friend spent $7K on top repairs over a three year period before he gave up and dumped his car.

I hope you have better results.

The dealer, with your car title, can provide you with it. You are probably talking about the radio, in which case you're out of luck, because the code is in the car's manual, and the radio you're holding is obviously hot. It works.

If it is the same as the Saab 9000 (probably is), then it will be through an access pane in the boot floor (just behind the rear seats) undo the t25 screws (hex drive) and remove the pane, then you should see another, pane in the top of the fuel tank. Undo these screws and you will see the pump, dont worry its not 'in' the tank just in a flap on the tank. Then take off the feeder pipe (slow and steady is the key as they do break). and hope your looking at a Walbro unit 8mm fitment as these cost just under

I had this happen years ago with a Suzuki Samuari ... smog hoses would blow off engine, oil would blow out every conceivable connection. Turned out it was a clogged catalytic converter, causing excessive back pressure, blowing past piston rings, and pressurizing the crankcase.

Since your car is turbo charged, it >might< be a frozen turbo that's creating backpressure, or a defective catalytic converter.

Unfortunatly with my Samurai I took it to a shop for diagnosis, and they said the engine was shot. I bought a rebuilt engine and installed it, only to find out that the same condition occurred, and finally traced it to the catalytic converter.

A quick test is to take a mallet and bang on the catalytic converter. You should NOT hear anything rattling around inside! If you do, it could be the 'core' inside the catalytic converter has broken loose, and is pushing up against the out-pipe and causing the backpressure.

Hope this helps...but I'd be worried about the turbocharger...

whasabb