Saab

The letters "AB" at the end of a Swedish company's name means "Aktiebolag." That's the Swedish equivalent of "Ltd" at the end of a British company's name.

In Swedish, Saab means Svenska Aeroplan AB - "Swedish Aircraft Ltd."

My 900 hatchback weighs 3475 pounds with fuel and driver - or about 3300 pounds with no one in it.

Trouble code P1300 means: Torque Limitation Signal Low

http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20040929.Saab_9-5_serpentine_belt/

This site is pretty http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20040929.Saab_9-5_serpentine_belt/

I found this to be the best for my 1999 9-5, should be the same for the 9-3 turbo.

A couple of things I found:

The replacement SAAB belt is shorter, missing out the centre pulley. I have actually fitted both and I found that the original lenghth 2601 (I believe) was easier to fit. With the tensioner pulled forward or compressed it was easier to push the belt down in the centre onto the centre pulley. I had to go for an after market belt to get the length.

I also found that using the half inch socket extension rod to compress the tensioner was difficult as the brake reservoir got in the way. I used a half inch socket speed brace instead and the shape of the brace fit nicely around the reservoir.

As described in the mentioned web-site you have to remove the engine mount and wheel but don't be put off, simple job that my mum could do.

Lastly - check pulley's to make sure they are running smooth or you may find that you trash another belt like I did.

Use a torque wrench with the correct setting for your motor.

See related link.

look of display at the reading for outside temp against a termometer if its faulty youll find it in the front lower centre bumper grille

5.5 QTS.

Depends on the year and the engine. Under the exhaust manifold or under the intake manifold.

get a hanyes manual lol

take bottom plate off, drain oil, the oil filter is located behind the gearbox. replace it, filler er to the brim wi oil again! lol :P

Split pipe on the vacum system look at the plastic pipe off the servo and look for splits

Follow the hose very simple. It's right on top of the block and has a rubber gasket that goes around the thermostat itself. You take off the two bolts and pull the thermostat out and put new one in its place after putting gasket on new one. and put everything back together

Vehicle burning oil? Might not show when converter is installed due to high temperature produced by converter (oil is burned and disipated in converter before getting to tailpipe).

First: it probably isn't. Saab only ever made about 7,000 of them. And all the decorative and "exterior performance" items, like the wheels and the side skirts, that were on the SPG cars could also have made their way to a regular 900.

The only way to tell if you have a real, genuine, Saab 900 SPG is to pop the hood and look for the Automatic Power Control box - the device that keeps your car from blowing up if you put too-low octane gas in it. On ordinary Saab Turbos, the APC box is black. On an SPG, it's red.

Speed alarm

I recently replaced the positive battery cable on my 1999 Saab 9-3 5 door hatchback that has the 185 hp engine. I thought I would share my experience to help others decide if they want to do this themselves or have a professional do it for them. This is for the model that ran from 1999-2002 (2003 for the convertible). While I don't know if all of the cars from these years would follow these same instructions, I would think that they would all be very close.

Summary: The positive battery cable has two wires, a short wire and a long wire. The short wire is very simple to work with, but the long wire proved to be much more difficult. It took me about 3.5 hours to complete the entire job.

Tools/equipment needed: 10 mm socket, 12 mm socket, socket extension, socket driver, 13 mm box end wrench, cable ties, floor jack

Step 1) Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal and then the positive battery terminal using the 13 mm box end wrench.

Step 2) Remove the protective battery cover.

Step 2) Remove the hold down bolt clamp at the base of the front of the battery, then remove the clamp and lift the battery out of the car.

Step 3) Disconnect the short wire from the fuse box.

Follow the short wire from the positive terminal cable to the cable termination point. You will see that it feeds into a fuse box. Remove the black cover to the fuse box and remove the nut holding the end of the cable in place. Lift the end of the cable off the mounting screw.

Step 4) Begin removal of the long end of the cable.

Note: The long cable is connected electrically in two places, and physically in three (not counting plastic wire ties). The electrical connections are to the starter solenoid and to the alternator, each being held in place by a 12 mm nut. The cable is also physically mounted by 3 clamps, 2 being held down by 10 mm bolts and one being help down by a 12 mm nut.

Jack the car up (remember to place jack stands for safety), crawl under the car, and locate the end of the positive cable which is attached to the back of the alternator. Using a 12 mm socket, remove the nut holding the end of the cable in place. Note the angle that the cable is attached to the back of the alternator, and lift the end of the cable off of the mounting screw.

Step 5) Locate the nut mounting the cable to the starter solenoid. Using a 12 mm socket, remove the nut and then remove the cable from the mounting screw. Note that the 2 nuts are different sizes (the larger one is for the alternator and the smaller one is for the starter solenoid).

Step 6) Cut and remove the cable tie that is holding down the cable to the starter solenoid.

Step 7) Working from the top of the engine, locate the 3 hold down clamps. If you follow the cable from the battery connection, the 1st connection uses a 10 mm bolt. Using a 10 mm socket and socket extension, remove the bolt.

Step 8) The second hold down clamp uses a 12 mm nut. Locate the nut and remove using a 12 mm socket and extension.

Step 9) The 3rd hold down clamp uses a 10 mm bolt. Using a 10 mm socket and socket extension, remove the bolt. Note that the engine coolant temperature sensor wires will be very close to where you will be inserting the socket extension. Make sure you do not disturb the wires.

Step 10) Remove the remaining cable hold downs. There are 2 cable ties that hold down the short cable and 1 or 2 more that hold down the long cable. There are also two rubber guides that help keep the long cable in place. These can be snapped open, although one of mine had completely disintegrated and I did not bother to replace it as it didn't really seem necessary.

Step 11) Carefully pull the long cable out. After the cable has been removed, check to see if anything has been disturbed. I found I had knocked off one vacuum line located below the long cable.

Step 12) Remove the 3 clamps from the old cable and reinstall on the new cable making sure that they are placed back on using the same orientation as on the original.

Step 13) Installation is the reverse of the removal. I first installed the short cable to the fuse box and replaced the cover. I then ran the long cable to the alternator, replaced the larger 12 mm nut (make sure you have the end of the cable rotated properly. There is a raised plastic guide on the back of the alternator that helps keep the end spade angled correctly. ) I then hooked up the cable to the starter solenoid and reinstalled the smaller 12 mm nut and installed a new cable tie. Then I re-mounted the cable clamps. I found this to be the most challenging part, especially re-installing the 10 mm nut that is located below the coolant temperature sensor. The last step is to install new cable ties in the areas where they had been originally. Then install the battery and battery hold down nut and clamp, the battery cover, and attach the positive and negative terminals. Start the car up and make sure that everything is working properly. It is very easy to disturb other parts of the car, especially when removing and installing the 3 cable clamps, so it is important to make sure that all your gauges are working, etc.

Hope this helps!

Never..... unless you live where the temp does not fall below 40 degrees, and it is already burning oil, as in blue smoke out of the tail pipe. I have a 93 900s with 198K always use 5w30.

There is no simple answer to this question. It is best referred to a knowledgeable Saab technician who has the dianostic tools to narrow down the possible problems. Have it checked out as soon as possible as it could cause an accident.

I wouldn't think so. New part is to cheap, it is cheaper and safer to buy new. Total replacement, including installation should not cost you both sides $400

New is NOT cheap and rebuilt can be better than new. Depending on the year of your SL500 you may have either 11 or 12 hydraulic units which power your soft top. Top Hydraulics, Inc. in Oregon rebuilt all 11 of mine for $550. Klaus, the owner, claims his replacement seals will last longer than the original MB seals. His after the sale customer service is outstanding. Hope this helps.

Lug Nut (Bolt) Torque 110nm (80 ft-lbs)

As with all Saab vehicles, safety is their highest priority. Saab's have a floor mounted ignition which they believe is safer in the case of an accident. Saab's are also known for having more leg room, this is partly due to the design with the ignition being mounted to the floor.

Wick Cutter, in My Antonia.

should be changed at 60000 miles along with the water pump and belt tensioners

Hi, I am now answering my own question after repairing the car myself. First order in replacment bearings makimng sure the correct ones are orderd (I kept being sent rear or front bearings for a 900 turbo earlier model). The new bearings are one piece incorporating the bearing, mounting bracket and hub assembly and being so are quite expensive ($220 Australian dollars each).

First loosen the wheel nuts and also the driveshaft retaining bolt then jack up the front of the car and remove the road wheel. Then remove the two mounting bolts holding the caliper assembly from steering knuckle, move caliper unit away from working area and support with a bit of wire carfully not to strain the rubber brake line.

Next undo the two nuts and bolts securing the steering knuckle to the suspension strut, once removed pull steering knuckle down to gain better access to the Allen key (hex head) bolts retaing the wheel bearing to the steering knuckle (you will need a 10mm Allen key (hex key) to remove the four bolts.

The disc brake rotor will come of with the bearing assembly, remove disc brake rotor by removing small star shaped bolts.

Assembly is the reversal of the removal procedure ensuring the Allen key bolts are replaced using a little locktite or other thread glue and ensuring drive shaft centre bolt is done up very tightly once car is back on the ground.

Hope this helps anyone else. Cheers Gav

Yes