Saturn (car)

There's a sticker under the hood of my 1998 Saturn SL2 that says 132a.

buy a subframe from the junkyard and find someone to replace it for you. odds are you aren't equipped to fix it yourself. you will probably need a control arm too.

The cost is minimal. Really all you need to buy is a new oil filter and replacement oil. You will need a tube of gasket maker. There are several types and the guy at the auto parts store can tell you which one will work. The oil and filter and gasket maker should cost appx. $15.00. You will need a torque wrench to tighten the pan correctly. Maybe you could borrow that, if not, you can get one for about $20.00.

My Toyota mechanic neighbor just finished rebuilding my 1985 22RE and said that the fiber type gasket is usaually not used. He used a black high temp. silicon. Run a good bead on the pan first then go around the bolt holes on the same.

The Neutral safety switch is located on the back of the automatic transmission. it is quite simple to replace. It is probably easier to replace from under the vehicle, but it is accessable from the top if your vehicle is not equipped with ABS.

I'm no mechanic, I'm a frugal female who can't afford today's costs. My hood release cable had broke at the lever inside the car. ....I was using a vise grip to pull the remaining wire fragments when the hood was shut....this was obviously borrowed time before those wire fragments would be inaccessible one day so I knew I had to replace this cable. I went to the Saturn dealership and purchased the $27 replacement hood release cable part for my 2003 Saturn Ion 2. The lever and black plastic casing for the wire was included...and contains a fixed tapered plug that fits into the hole through the fire wall. I first removed the plastic molding from the door edge that ended at the middle of the doorway (referenced midway of the driver's seat only along the edge of the carpet meeting the doorframe)...this is held in by clips and one slotted piece right next to the plastic lever for the hood release cable...just lift from the frame base first and work your way up to the lever area and be careful not to snap that slotted piece that slides into the bracket (do the reverse when replacing everything). The molded plastic lever was easily wiggled out of the plastic base so I can now easily investigate my next hurtle, the plastic base of the lever slipped into the metal bracket that's welded to the car. Most clips have a barb so I referenced the lever base on my new replacement part to see where I was to slip a small standard screwdriver head into in order to easily snap out the piece. I inserted the screwdriver head between the metal bracket and the old plastic housing for the lever in the location of the barbs to lift up...and I was able to snap the plastic housing out without destroying the metal bracket. I removed the wire in the front of the car under the hood...there's a knobby thing on the end of the wire preventing the wire from slipping out and is a hook within the metal release mechanism. The black plastic tube surrounding the cable has another important collar from the metal release mechanism under the hood that has to be snapped out in order to free it to be able to be removed (it's about an inch away from that knobby thing). At the collar my old part was broken and easily removed, but this collar is to be kept in mind for the new replacement part....it's important that it's securely snapped in or the hood won't open (I learned the hard way and had at the end to go under the car to snap it in with a long heavy duty screw driver because it's difficult to reach in this narrow area to get any kind of leverage to do this...but I did it after a few words of frustration). I slipped the cable out from the grill and now was at the fire wall thinking it would be difficult to find this hole again to fish through the replacement cable. So I cut the knobby thing and it's collar off the old wire and from the inside of the car slipped only the black casing out leaving the remaining old wire still under the hood near the fire wall and inside the car. I wrapped the old wire around the base of the black plastic of the new part and twisted it around itself a couple of times. I wrapped it all up with electrician's tape covering the old wire all the way up to the end of the new knobby thing on the new part to protect it as I pulled it through the fire wall hole. I went under the hood near the fire wall and pulled the other end of the old wire through the fire wall until the tapered plug on the new part was in place. The new wire casing came with it and easily came through the fire wall. I then fished the free end of the old wire (the other end still secured to the new part) as a needle through the grill up to the metal mechanism of the front of the hood. I removed the tape from the old and new part...and the new wire was unharmed. I placed the knobby thing in it's hook just like the old wire was when I removed it and then clamped the collar into place (or at least I thought I did, it needed more force than I gave it and later I had to go under the car after I closed the hood to snap it into place). BTW, there are 2 plastic wire guards, one near the base of the battery like thing (I know the battery is in the trunk, but there's another battery connection located under the hood, too) and the other clip is inside the car beneath the carpet wall, I didn't find the area where they clamped back into, but the whole mechanism worked and was secured so I don't have any worries about those two little plastic clamps that hold the direction of the black plastic casing of the wire. I replaced the plastic molding as in reverse of how I removed it from the carpet edge and door frame. I believe I saved myself between $100 to $200 by doing this myself.

It can cost from $16 to $50 to replace the brakes on a 2001 Saturn L200. This price may change based on part brand and any labor costs at a shop.

I have a 2002 Saturn L200 that also has now got a gas tank leak, so bad the fuel is dripping. This is only while the car is running so it makes me think it is a hose and not the tank that is leaking. I am going to take mine to the dealer to check it out and see what the cost will be.

His first name is Paul. He is in a band called Mayday! Mayday! Here is a link to the bands MySpace page.

http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewProfile&friendID=2062163

probably a broken exhaust bracket, loose heat shield or roaches.

Worn brake pads or a defective wheel bearing. If it only growls under braking it is the pads. If it growls all the time and more so when making a turn it is the wheel bearing. Inspect your brake pads/rotor and wheel bearings if necessary.

Chances are that you don't have the ground wire attached properly.

most Saturn parts are interchangeable

if they look the same chances are they are the same

i say try it, it will not harm your engine just be ready to shut it off just in case it decides to rev all the way up, the governor will kick in at 4,100-4,200 rpm's but you don't want it that high for too long

Sunridge Mazda, Crowfoot Hyundai, Saturn Saab Of Calgary Northeast, Borgy's Auto Sales &Leasing are all Saturn Dealers. Sunridge Mazda is the highest rated in Calgary.

No, there is no water on Saturn.

There is no Fan belt. There is a serpentine belt however. If this breaks do NOT run the car. This belt turns the water pump keeping your engine cool. You will have major issues if the engine overheats.

The steering intermediate shaft connects the end of a column to the rack. The shaft can have more problems in a pickup than in a car.

if you have to ask...pay someone to fix it(lol) it is built inside the alt...hope this helps

Intake side (rear of engine) Pass to driver side(L to R) 9 5 6 10 Center row 3 1 2 Exhaust side (frount of engine) 8 4 7 11 Tighten to 89 inlbs.

saturnfans.com has all the answers

Assuming that you don't have the owners manual, in my 1999 SL2, the DRL relay is in the underhood electrical fuse box which is a rectangular box (maybe 4"x8") to the right of the battery. Unscrew the knob, remove the plastic cover and you'll see a bunch of fuses and relays. The diagram for what is where is molded into the inside of the cover.

You must remove the rear package tray.

There is a protection device on the AC system that prevents the AC compressor from destroying itself.

If the AC compressor runs when there is no refrigerant present, friction inside the compressor will wear out the moving parts and push little pieces of worn compressor through the entire AC system. Once that happens, a simple recharge of the refrigerant changes into a major repair of the entire system. So the protection device turns the compressor off when the refrigerant drops below a set pressure as determined by the protection device.

But if you insist on forcing the compressor on, there are two ways:

1. Find the protective device. Depending on the system, it can be on the receiver/dryer or anywhere else on the low side of the AC refrigerant lines. It will be the only sensor on the low side refrigerant lines Put a jumper across the low side sensor, then turn on the AC and the compressor should work, provided that everything else is functional.

2. Examine the front (pulley end) of the AC compressor. There should be a connector with a single wire. (if there are two wires, one will be connected directly to chassis ground If you connect a jumper wire directly from the battery to that connector, the compressor clutch should engage immediately.

Neither method is recommended unless you know what you're doing and/or are in the process of recharging the system.

The fuel pump may be losing presure after you turn thr eng. off. Bad check valve in the pump. Replace pump or send it off and get it rebuilt

Saturns are junk, take it from me...DO NOT BUY ONE!! Saturns are junk, take it from me...DO NOT BUY ONE!!