there are two fuse boxex on a 89 Toyota corolla one is under the hood of the car behind the battery under a plastic cover the other one is beside and under the trunk release by the gas and brake pettles

Are you sitting down? If the bottom bolt is not there then the bolt is coming into the starter from the inside of the transaxal housing whick means a it's a CVCC type engine. Not sure if you have to pull the engine my accord's starter just went out and this is what I found by feeling no bolt on the bottom mount and sticking a pensicle in there and finding something blocking. The Chilton book that I have shows a pic of the bolt inside the houseing. I'm gona get durnk good luck

The other bolt is behind the stabelizer bar. if your hands and arms are small enough you can get behind it with a rachet wrench and not have to remove the stabelizer bar. It's the upper bolt on the short end of the stabelizer.

there's a bolt on the right front side and one from behind on the left side. Get the new one, look at it, make sure it matches the one that's in there, the bolt from the back is a little tricky, but you can get to it. I had to remove a stabilizer bar thingy to get a wrench and my arm in there. Mine's an 82 Honda accord 3 door hatch back, just swapped it out a month ago.

while looking at ste starter motor from the side of the car stick your left hand around past the upper bolt of the stabalizer bar you willm find a bolt use a # 14 open end wrench it will take time but i did it cool

depending on what you mean by disarm the car alarm, it may be as simple as putting the key in either the front driver or front passenger door and turning towards the rear of the car once or twice. the driver door keyhole on my 93 no longer works to disarm, so i use the front passenger door.

Disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine and crank engine over-you should get a snapping blue spark

if you plan on fixing it and you're not really good with this kind of stuff don't do it. if its just for fun or you're good with this have fun;)

firstly, you'll need the following tools:

-impact hammer

-30mm socket (1/2" drive preferably)

-socket for bolts on back plate (12mm i think)

-14mm socket for bearing caps

-chain or a couple pry bars

-hammer

-brass punch with a fairly flat end, no wider than about 3/4". even steel is ok if you're careful.

-chisel, dremel, or other cutting tool

-oil seal puller

-dial indicator

-dial indicator stand

alright fun time. first we need to find the backlash of the ring gear to the pinion gear. the easiest way to explain the backlash is that its the play or space between the ring and pinion gears, should be around 0.005-0.007", not too much. remove all bolts on the back inspection plate and gently tap it off with your hammer and punch or bar. measure using the dial indicator and stand, gently rock the ring gear back and fouth to get the reading while holding the pinion. unless the carrier bearings on the ring gear are shot, you want to return the gears to the same backlash on reassembly. the input probe or plunger of your dial indicator (depending on type) should be perpendicular to the face of one of the teeth of the ring gear.

next take the drive pinions off. unlike north American diffs, imports use snap rings. the way to get them off is to be rough unfortunately. use your pry bars and slip them under each pinion flange. hammer like theres no tomorrow and they will pop out. alternatively attach a chain to each of them (threaded studs should still be there) using washers and a nut and lift the diff up and shake it hard. **do this on grass and steel toed boots/shoes are a MUST** mark which pinion is which side and set them aside. remove the snap rings and toss them, also junk now.

now remove the bearing caps from the back of the diff. mark which one came from where and put them aside. they're torqued on to 54 ft-lbs so either use the impact wrench or a good breaker bar for that.

look in the holes where the drive pinions were that you just pulled out. see the yellow coloured plates with a toothed hole in them? those are shims. *gently* tap one of them out towards the back with your brass punch and hammer. mark which side it belongs to. the ring gear and case assembly should come out by hand now that a shim and the bearing caps are removed.

**if you're reusing those carrier bearings, you MUST mark which bearing race (ring) goes where!! to mix them up can be dangerous!!**

now we need the pinion off. theres an indented part of the big nut on the pinion, called 'staked'. cut that away with the dremel, chisel, whatever. be careful not to damage the threads on the steel shaft underneath.

take your impact gun and the 30mm socket and pop the bolt off, hold the pinion with your hand and give it a few short bursts to avoid spinning the diff.

toss the nut away, its useless now. the pinion flange should pull right off pretty easily. theres a metal plate underneath on top of the outer pinion bearing, it will come right out. that's the oil slinger, put it aside with the pinion.

now put the diff up on the worktable so its resting on its back end (with the back plate removed still of course). put several thick rags in the bottom on your workbench. also, you can alternatively hold the back of your pinion. its easier with a friend. take your brass punch and make sure its contacting only the drilled middle of the pinion. pound the pinion out! BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE THREADS!! if you do (like i did) you'll need to find an M20 x 1.5 metric tapping die.

you'll notice a crushed sleeve in there. that's just as the name implies, a crush sleeve. VERY important for the life of your pinion bearings. toss that away, they can only be used once. the pinion bearing races can be removed with your punch and hammer, take your time. again label if you're reusing - even though they're hard to confuse as they're different sizes.

there you go, apart. if you want to remove the ring gear, use your punch or a screwdriver to break the lock plates on the bolts on the case (you'll see what i mean) and toss them away. remove the bolts with the impact gun.

inspect for damage to your bearing rollers...very important! any pitting, nasty scratching, or otherwise and that bearing should be replaced.

if you can follow it this far, you know what you're doing just fine. if not, take your time, research and do it slowly. check out www.gearinstalls.com, and search for the supra mk3 TSRM as the mk3 supra has the same diff as the cressidas.

best of luck, its not the easiest job but not bad once you figure it out.

How to Change belt on 2005 corolla?

MAJED

On a 7MGE it is located to the right of the oil filter above the dip stick tube

on some vehicles the gas light will still work if the gauge does not. on some vehicles such as an 1985 Toyota cressida have a separate sensor allowing the low fuel light to illuminate.

NOTE: Two different engines are available for 1999 Corolla, so this is instruction for the 12V/1.4KW starter, which is on the front of the engine. It will take 2 to 3 hours to replace the starter, provided you have the right tools. I suggest you have an assistant and these instructions by your side. You will have to unscrew 9 bolts, 1 nut, disconnect two switches, and loosen a clamp. TOOLS: Car jack; Wrenches and ratchets sizes 10mm, 13mm, 14mm; Phillips screwdriver Step 1: Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the protective plastic cover under the engine. Step 2: Remove the air-filter assembly including the air-intake elbow.There are 4 bolts and one plastic fastener to be removed in total with air-filter assembly. Unclip the air-filter box, remove the actual air-filter, and you will see three (3) bolts you need to unscrew. On the outside of the box towards the windshield, you will see the fourth bolt holding several wires to the air-filter box. Disconnect it. Towards the front of the engine, you will see a small black, plastic ring holding a battery wire. This ring can pop open, so play with it and open it so that you can move the assembly. Final step is to remove the air-intake elbow from the engine. Use the Phillips screwdriver to loosen the fastener holding the air-intake hose to the engine. Slip the hose off its terminal and move the whole air-filter assembly off to the side. The second starter bolt becomes accessible only after the air-filter assembly has been moved off to the side. Step 3: Disconnect the two starter switches Since you are now lying below the car, looking up, you will notice two switches on the starter [There is a third switch on the oil filter, which you may want to disconnect while working to prevent a potential tare]. Disconnect the small wire switch first; by pulling on it, (it slides out). The larger wire switch does NOT slide out. First, clip-off the plastic cover by pulling on it with your index finger nail. As it clicks open, nut will appear, holding the main wire to the starter. Unscrew the nut, and disconnect the wire (ALWAYS DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE TOUCHING THIS NUT). Step 4: Unscrew the 2 bolts and remove the starter The first starter bolt is accessible from the bottom, so right after disconnecting the switches, apply a 14mm wrench, and unscrew the bolt. The second bolt is accessible from the top of the engine, only after the air-filter assembly is off to the side. Locate the bolt by touch or by using a mirror and unscrew it. DO NOT REMOVE THIS BOLT COMPLETELY, as it is very hard to access! Remove starter motor from the BOTTOM of the car. Be patient and gentle, as there is very little room to operate. I did it last week, so it can be done! Step 4: Reinstall the removed parts (Opposite of removal)

Radio fuse

you can cover up the sensor that is located at the top of the dash on the driver's side near the window.

First, I have to assume the question refers to that part of the dash where the speedometer and fuel gauge are. Now look above those dials for two screws holding the trim piece in place and remove them. Gently pull the trim piece out and work it past and above the steering wheel. Then look for three screws holding the gauge box in place (one on top and two at the bottom on either side). A magnetic phillips-head screw driver works best here. After removing a total of five screws, you've finished the hard part. Now bring the gauge box forward (wire harness and all) and flip towards you. You'll see three BIG black twist caps that hold the bulbs and a bunch of SMALL twist caps for the other bulbs that probably aren't causing you any trouble. Just make 1/4 turns to remove the bulbs from the panel. The bulbs pull straight out of their holders for replacement.

Hope this helped.

probly buitl in to the altinator drive safe

drivers side behind distributor

I just changed it... It really below the distributor.

1.) Locate the distributor box.. its the box with wires attached to engine with cables that terminate into a box.

2.) Under that box you will see a bunch of bolts... Two of those bolts are attached to a smaller housing ... That's the thermostat housing.

Hint. Remove the air filter box to make an easier workspace.

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