There are 2 excellent write-ups on the procedures for replacing the shifter cable, one for floor shift and column shift each, at the Taurus Car Club site.
See Related links below for more information.
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You need to take any plastic switches or buttons out of the way and then using a screwdriver, take every screw out that is holding the dashboard in place..be sure to remember where everything goes so when you put it back you won't forget anything. Once you take the instrument display off (screws hold into the bezel) there are little light bulbs that simply pull out..locate the burned out bulb and replace it...
Check all fuses before you take anything apart because it also could be a burned out fuse
Does this process work as well with a 1997 Corolla?
I found 4 screws on my 1997 (2 in the top of the instrument console) and 2 near the bottom of the center instrument panel, but that didn't seem to get me anywhere.
I still couldn't remove the panel and replace the bulb.
remove tps clean spring with rp7 so spring works and returns back nice and hard put back in egsactly the same position and will be perfect again as the right info will be sent back to your cars computer or get a new tps if yours is faulty ..........Billy
(i) Use a "star" screwdriver to unscrew the two(2) black screws on the outside.
On the inside if there is a canvas remove this by gently unscrewing the two(2) black plastic screws
(ii) Use a No. 8 spanner to remove the nut on the inside.
(iii) Pull gently the whole casing containing all the rear lights(brake/turn signal/reverse/blinkers)
(iv) Determine which bulb needs replacement by switching your lights on and have someone step on the brakes for you.( with the ignition turned on)
(v) The part number( for brake light) is 1157 and is available at the nearest Autozone
(v)Remember not to lose the screws Replace everything as it was
Happy Driving.I just change mine today 1/3/05.
I did this today 7/14/10. The only thing that was confusing for me was removing the whole casing. You have to jiggle it a little to manuever it off because the outside part is hooked on.
there is 1 nut to remove. It is on the inside of the trunk. Pull the protective cloth covering away from the inside, directly on the other side of the light. There should be a brass colored nut. Remove it. Then take the 2 black screws out on the outside of the light. They are located on the inside part of the light closest to the middle of the trunk. The cover should slide out after the 2 screws & nut is removed. !
There is no special procedure for replacing the water pump. You will have to remove the belts, fan at a minimum. To make the job easier it is recommended that you remove the radiator. It is also wise to service all consumable parts at that time with genuine Toyota parts: Hoses, coolant, thermostat & belts.
Here are some few more steps, in addition to the previously mentioned steps, that could help you in your repalcement:
1. Open the hood and locate your vehicle's alternator.
2. Using your digital multi-meter, check the battery voltage. A dead battery will usually have less than 9 volts. This would not be enough power to start most vehicles.
3. To verify that your alternator is bad, make sure your battery is fully charged and can pass a load test.
4. With the good battery installed, connect your digital multi-meter across the battery terminals with the engine turned off. A good battery should read between 12-13 volts.
5. Start your engine and read the digital multi-meter's output. The voltage should rise near 13.5-14.5 volts.
6. Using an open end wrench, disconnect the battery's negative cable
7. Disconnect the power and ground wires on the back of the alternator paying close attention to where each wire connects. Disconnect the wiring harness connector.
8. Loosen the alternator bracket bolts, and alternator adjusting bolts or alternator belt tensioner so that you can remove the alternator drive belt.
9. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, remove the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt, lower pivot bolt (if equipped), and the alternator.
10. Install new alternator.
11. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, loosely install the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt and lower pivot bolt (if equipped).
12. Install the alternator belt.
13. Pull the alternator until the alternator belt is tight.
14. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts while gently moving the alternator unit to achieve proper alternator belt tension.
15. Reinstall the power and ground wires to alternator. Install the wiring harness connector.
16. Push down in the middle of the alternator belt to check belt tension. If the alternator belt moves more than a half an inch, it is too loose, adjust the alternator belt to proper tension before proceeding to next step.
17. Now that the alternator belt has been installed and adjusted, reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check the battery voltage to verify proper alternator charging.
18. Turn off the engine and recheck the alternator belt tension. Readjust the alternator belt tension if needed.
Disconnect the battery. Then unplug the alternator and take the belts off. Unbolt it. Put a new one back on. Bolt it in. Put belts back on. Plug it back in. Reconnect the battery. Viola! Replaced alternator.
2 remove the cdplayer/tape unit...pull out the center air vent underneath the CD player. There will be 2 x 10mm bolts in there...remove boths and bobs your uncle
Follow the upper radiator hose (The biggest hose at the top of the radiator) follow it away from the radiator towards the engine. The hose will attach to the "thermostat housing" located somewhere on the engine block. Unbolt the "thermostat housing" and the thermostat is right there. Remove it and install the new one BUT make sure the point is facing the right direction (there should be an arrow on the new thermostat if you don't remember how the old one was), ALSO make sure the new thermostat is not cockeyed where it sits, it must be perfectly flush down in the little recess or else you will break the thermostat housing when you tighten it down. also, you obviously need to get a new gasket for the thermostat housing, some cars use o-rings, some use gaskets, and some use RTV silicone, I don't know what the corolla uses. It's a fairly simple job and shouldn't take long at all.
The above location doesn't apply to the 1600 DX engine.
***Addition: I was working on my 96 'rolla tonight, and I'm certain the thermostat is NOT attached to the upper hose on the radiator. That hose goes straight to the block. Mine's a 96, but I didn't think things changed until the 98s.
REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION!!!!!! (SAFETY FIRST!!!!) UNHOOK..AND REMOVE THE BATTERY! DO NOT attempt this with the battery IN car..way too many things to go wrong.
Remove the battery and tray.
LOOK to the REAR of the engine,you'll see the TOP of the starter...loosen and remove the 14MM bolt/nut holding it on now down below
Drain radiator and Remove the lower radiator hose. This will let you squeeze the starter around the AC line.
THEN install the new starter,the one bolt you removed from the bottom,screw in the LAST 14MM bolt on the starter into the transmission LOOSELY!!!!!!!
GO up top,reinstall the TOP bolt,TIGHTEN THIS ONE FIRMLY,but NOT all the way... Go below,tighten the bottom bolt to final spec. RE-ATTACH ALL THE WIRES...make sure the trigger wire is snapped in fully. GO up top,FIRMLY tighten to spec the top bolt.. Re-install everything you removed up top then down below Reinstall the battery(MAKE SURE THE IGNITION IS OFF!!!!!) Hook up battery... LOOK AT EVERYTHING...see if ANYTHING is loose.. CHECK EVERY BOLT YOU TOUCHED TO SEE THAT IT IS TIGHT, MAKE SURE ALL WIRES ARE IN PLACE... Crank it...does it crank?? it should fire MUCH better then when you started....good luck.. took me about a hour WITH power tools,and I had to figure it all out : (
[For 1992-1997 Corolla, Chevy Geo Prism] Disconnect battery ground. Remove air filter cover and big rubber thing that connects to the throttle body. Disconnect wires from old starter. Remove bolts. They face in opposite directions from each other. Installation is reverse of removal.
Try not to break anything.
[Old : Applies only to 1998 and later Corolla) You're gonna have to lift up the car. Well, you're gonna have to come up at it from underneath unless you wanna take the intake manifold off. You don't wanna do that. After you've got the car up, the starter's directly underneath the throttle body. Remember to disconnect the battery ground before you start so you don't shock yourself because that hurts. Other than that it's only a matter of a couple of bolts and the wires.The biggest problem with changing Corolla starters...is getting them out of the car. Unbolting them is no real problem, except that the top bolt is on the transmission side and you've got to pull the air cleaner box to get to it. If you weave the starter around through all of the stuff behind the engine, the path to "out" will take you right past the power steering pump.
I just changed my starter and when taking it out, I could NOT get it past the power steering pump as stated above. However, simply point the skinny end of the starter down between the drive axle and the front frame member and with a few twists and turns it will drop to the ground. Putting the new starter back in is even easier, just point it back up where you came out. You will need a ratchet with 14MM and 12MM sockets, and a straight-blade screwdriver. The whole R&R process took me less than 45 minutes. I had a friend help me which is always handy (and more fun) but this not necessary to get the job done.
Not easy on some of these cars because of limited working space.Bu t remove the neg bat cable then the wires from the alt then the bolts holding it on.
ok real good answer,not.thats the most basic answer i have ever seen.come on,there are 2 main bolts to remove.one on top one at the bottom facing the same way as the top one.there are 2 wire sets to remove,one will need a socket and the other is a clip.to remove the belt there is a tension bar.the bar is almost an L shape with two connected pieces,to the left are two small bolts,leave them alone.look at the biggest bolt in the middle that holds the bar on,right above that is the bolt you will need to crank clockwise to loosen the belt.mine was broken off so i just stuck a torqe bar in there and cranked it twords the front of the car until the belt was loose enough.then just reverse everything to put back on.
The type of engine under the hood. Well known for blowing head gaskets.
Look in your owner's manual and find out exactly where the fuse panel is located. Don't have an owner's manual then you need to get one. Here are sources. http://www.samarins.com/maintenance/manual.html You can also try E-Bay and a salvage yard.
I had a lot of problems with mine thinking it had something to do with the black nob looking things. They have nothing to do with it. You just hvae do undo the two bolts and hold the light and wiggle it out it will come out I promise.
Following up, I just want to confirm the above. There is a pin on the back side of the light assembly itself that slides in to the black knob looking thing. The pin is captivate by a spring pushing against an indent on the pin. This is why just wiggling the light assembly may not seem to work easily. You really need to "pop" the assembly free by pushing on the threaded stud on the trunk interior, the one that you removed the nut from. I used a small piece of wood to push against that stud as I wiggled the light assmebly.
you turn the key to unlock the doors on the driver side.
Newer models 2000 and later have a cam mount. Rotate the the bracket attached to the mount that is glued to the window 180 degrees and the mirror will slide out of the mount. I think many foreign cars have this same mount.
It is very simple since it's only two clip that you have to loose and after put the new filter in place in the bracket on the firewall on the left side (driver side).
I believe that the filter held by two clips is for the carbureted engine, while on the fuel injected '91 tercel, the fuel lines are bolted on top and bottom and the filter is bolted to the firewall in an inconvinient location.
To replace the entire headlamp assy you must remove the bumper cover. There are fasteners across the top, inside fender skirt and along the bottom and also a few clips inside the grill that are accessible from underneath. Three bolts fasten headlamp assy to the radiator support and there are three quick electrical connections.
The oil filter is located on the front of the motor under the exhaust manifold
i believe it is in a fuse box right next to your battery. the top of the box shows the part of the car the fuses go to.
Most parts on '90-'92 Prizms and '89-'92 Corollas are interchangeable, from what I've seen. I know for a fact that pretty much everything under the hood are exactly the same. The part numbers for the lock cylinders on the front doors are the same as those of a Corolla, and the GM dealership here orders the parts from Toyota. My answer would have to be a tentative yes. If that's not certain enough for you, you could always try going to either a GM or Toyota dealership and asking for yourself.
In the 60's, there was am excellent how-to book about Repairing VW's for "Dummies". It didn't assume that the reader had very much knowledge about mechanics but it could get a person from point a to point b without breaking something. Here's an attempt at Toyota starter motors for "Dummies". I hope it helps.
On a 1991 sedan 4A FE engine (dual overhead cam) with an automatic transmission the starter is tucked in a fairly tight spot beneath the intake manifold. But access to it is easier than it first looks. Get a good drop light, disconnect the negative lead to the battery, put the car in park with e brake on, block the opposite wheels with chocks, jack up the driver side front of the car, use jack stands, and follow the steps below:
1) Unclip and remove the top to the aircleaner, the air cleaner filter, and unbolt the 3 bolts holding the base of the aircleaner using a socket wrench.
2) Remove the remaining black plastic section and 3 inch diameter rubber hose that leads from the air cleaner to the throttle body. There are two large hose clamps that need to be loosened in order to pull the hose free from the large opening of the throttle body. Be careful to not damage the various surrounding vacuum lines in the process.
3) Now standing on the driver's side with a bright drop light, look toward the region where you removed the 3 bolts that held the base of the aircleaner in place. Angle the light so that it shines toward the direction of the right front wheel (passenger side wheel) perpendicular to and just beyond the 1 inch diameter black bundle of wiring harness. There is a bracket that holds this wiring harness bundle in place. Remove this bracket and bolt with a 13 mm ( I think) open end wrench. Now you will clearly be able to see the top bolt head (facing you) that holds the starter motor.
4) Use a long extension and a 14 mm socket to loosen this starter moter bolt part of the way.
5) Now get under the car beneath the drive axles with the drop light and look up toward where you loosened the top bolt of the starter. Locate the starter.
6) Use a socket, universal, and extension to unbolt the nut on the bottom of the starter moter that connects the thick wire lead that has the rubber boot over the nut. Also unplug the thin wire lead next to it that clips onto the starter.
7) There are only two bolts that hold the starter in place and you have already partly loosened the top bolt. Now it's time to remove the second (lower) bolt. Use a long extension and a 14 mm socket. Undo it all the way. Now, the only thing holding the starter is the partly removed top bolt.
8) While you are underneath the car, reaching up and holding the starter with your right hand, have a friend totally remove the top bolt so that the starter is totally free.
9) Remove the starter by angling it toward the right fender plastic splash gard. My splash gard was flexible enough for me to bend it with my right elbow so that the starter could be removed easily enough. On your car, you may need to remove a few of the screws that hold that part of the plastic splash gard so that it becomes bendable enough to provide room for removal of the starter.
10) Before installing the new starter, compare the old one with the new one to check that the bolt pattern and mating surface is the same. Some starters may be slightly longer or shorter in other ways but that's OK. Also, check the new starter to see that all of the bolts and screws are snug. Remanufacturers nowadays are sometimes sloppy. I had to return two starter motors without ever installing them (both on the same day!) because of a stripped bolt on one and a barely hanging on, cross-threaded nut on another.
11) Don't break the plastic connector that accepts the thin plug-in wire! Be extra careful when tightening the nut attaching the thick electrical lead to the bottom of the starter so that you don't accidentally rotate the wire's metal connector into the plastic connector that holds the thinner plug-in wire. While focusing on tightening that nut, you may forget that the fragile plastic connector is just next to it.
u gotta start by either soildering or somehow puting the two wires hanging off the miorror to the car....this is for the defroseter. after...get a rag and fild it up and push against the miorror in the center and add preasure...MAKE SURE THE 5 PRONGS BEHINDE THE MIORROR ARE ALL LINED UP TO EACHOTHER OR ELSE IT WONT BE ABLE TO ROTATE AROUND AND BE ADJUSTED FROM THE INSIDE (thats the hardest part).....i did this to my 2000 tl on the driver side... it's kinda shaky on the freeway....but its on there good.. hopefully this helps Raz
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