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Toyota Paseo
Also known as the Cynos in some markets, the Paseo was a sport compact car manufactured by the Japan-based automaker Toyota Motor Corporation from 1991 to 1999. This model was available in convertible and coupe body styles.
500 Questions
Toyota passo ecu wiring diagram?
Asked by Wiki User
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Where is the fuse for your in-dash lights and running lights?
Asked by Wiki User
Actually, on your paseo, that fuse is located in the panel near the hood release lever. The diagram on the back side of that panel is incorrect for some reason, (or maybe I was reading it wrong) but that's okay, because there really arent many fuses in there, unlike these new cars. I can't recall which one it is exactly, but use a little tester. It will tell which one is blown. You are right, though, the dash lights and running lights are on the same fuse. Hope that helps.
You have rebuilt head and replaced spark plugs wires injectors and fuel pump on your Toyota Paseo and now it will not start what could the problem be?
Asked by Wiki User
Diagnosis: Engine Won't Start or Run
WHEN AN ENGINE WON'T START
Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engine fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one?
To find you, you need to analyze the situation. If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. Has the starter been acting up? (Unusual noises slow cranking, etc.). Is this the first time the engine has failed to crank or start, or has it happened before? Have the starter, battery or battery cables been replaced recently? Might be a defective part. Has the battery been running down? Might be a charging problem. Have there been any other electrical problems? The answers to these questions should shed some light on what might be causing the problem.
If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history.
STARTING YOUR DIAGNOSIS
What happens when you attempt to start the engine? If nothing happens when you turn the key, check the battery to determine its state of charge. Many starters won't do a thing unless there is at least 10 volts available from the battery. A low battery does not necessarily mean the battery is the problem, though. The battery may have been run down by prolonged cranking while trying to start the engine. Or, the battery's low state of charge may be the result of a charging system problem. Either way, the battery needs to be recharged and tested.
If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.
A charging system that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures.
If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator? Full fielding the alternator to bypass the regulator should tell you if it is working correctly. Or, take the alternator to a parts store and have it bench tested. If the charging voltage goes up when the regulator is bypassed, the problem is the regulator (or the engine computer in the case of computer-regulated systems). If there is no change in output voltage, the alternator is the culprit.
Many times one or more diodes in the alternator rectifier assembly will have failed, causing a drop in the unit's output. The alternator will still produce current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged. This type of failure will show up on an oscilloscope as one or more missing humps in the alternator waveform. Most charging system analyzers can detect this type of problem.
ENGINE CRANKING PROBLEMS
If the engine won't crank or cranks slowly when you attempt to start or jump start the engine (and the battery is fully charged), you can focus your attention on the starter circuit. A quick way to diagnose cranking problems is to switch on the headlights and watch what happens when you attempt to start the engine. If the headlights go out, a poor battery cable connection may be strangling the flow of amps. All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned along with the engine-to-chassis ground straps.
Measuring the voltage drop across connections is a good way to find excessive resistance. A voltmeter check of the cable connections should show no more than 0.1 volt drop at any point, and no more than 0.4 volts for the entire starter circuit. A higher voltage drop would indicate excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or tightening.
Slow cranking can also be caused by undersized battery cables. Some cheap replacement cables have small gauge wire encased in thick insulation. The cables look the same size as the originals on the outside, but inside there is not enough wire to handle the amps.
If the headlights continue to shine brightly when you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens (no cranking), voltage is not reaching the starter. The problem here is likely an open or misadjusted park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition switch, or a faulty starter relay or solenoid. Fuses and fusible links should also be checked because overloads caused by continuous cranking or jump starting may have blown one of these protective devices.
If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter.
Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system.
If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps.
A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.
An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed or cranking speed typically indicates a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature.
A starter that does not turn at all and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature. On the other hand, the start may be fine but can't crank the engine because the engine is seized or hydrolocked. So before you condemn the starter, try turning the engine over by hand. Won't budge? Then the engine is probably locked up.
A starter that won't spin at all and draws zero amps has an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid. Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings).
If the starter motor spins but fails to engage the flywheel, the cause may be a weak solenoid, defective starter drive or broken teeth on the flywheel. A starter drive that is on the verge of failure may engage briefly but then slip. Pull the starter and inspect the drive. It should turn freely in one direction but not in the other. A bad drive will turn freely in both directions or not at all.
ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors
A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.
ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump
On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter.
On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank.
There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem.
On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning.
Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking.
ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression. If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons).
Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change.
With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked.
A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.
What causes a Toyota to run hot for only a few minutes then show normal temperature reading?
Asked by Wiki User
Im assuming that your getting your hot reading form the temperature gauge in dash.
Possibly your coolant temperature sensor is starting to go bad, or even possible your thermostat is starting to stick shut til real hot xP
There are several sensors, but the one id start with maybe is the smallest one located on the front of the engine, just right of the exhaust manifold,(the downwords pipe comming out of engine,typically 4 into 1 pipe)
Just takes a wrench, possibly a 6 or 8 mm size
Has a wire and plastic clamp attachment that you have to squeeze to release it. Some are double sided clamps, but most are single side.
Simply remove it and replace.
Both are easy to replace and not to expensive.
Will a bad roter in distributor cap make your 1994 Toyota not get any fire?
Asked by Wiki User
Yes, it will.
How do you change the gear oil for a 93 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
Transmission-differential is on the driver's side.You will find a hex bolt on the bottom or the unit,take it out,let it drain,reinstall and snug. On the front of the unit there is a hex bolt. Rather large,remove it,you will need a funnel with a hose on it or a suction gun with a hose to put the 80-90 back in the unit.When it runs out sitting level on the ground you are filled to capacity. Not a hard job at all,the only problem you may have is having the right size tools.Have fun.
How do you change the pcv valve on a 1993 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
First, locate the pcv valve. It is on the top of the valve cover in the center of it and has a small hose(about 4" long) going into the intake manifold. Now you will need needle nose pliers to remove the clamp from the pcv valve. Take your pliers and grab the round clamp at the two ends facing up and squeeze until the clamp opens. While holding the clamp open, gently move the pliers left and right while pushing towards the intake manifold. Once the clamp has moved off the valve, release the pliers. You should now be able to remove the rubber hose from the valve. Pull the hose off the valve. Now that the hose is removed, you should see the plastic end of the valve(right angle shape) Next, hold the valve at the base of the grommet(this is on the valve cover) pull up on it while twisting it back an forth. This part may be a little hard as some pcv grommets are tighter than others. Removed it little by little. Don't try to pull it out all in one shot or it might snap apart. I'd recommend getting your replacement pcv valve from the dealer. I've seen some aftermarket valves not work properly. Now the reinstall. Take your replacement and put a small amount of oil(very little) on the valve where it inserts into the valve cover. push straight down on the top of the valve until it is fully seated. When the valve is fully seated, you should be able to turn the top of the valve into position facing the intake manifold. Now, attach the hose to the new pcv valve and use pliers to move the clamp back into place on the hose. You will notice a ring shaped imprint in the hose where the clamp should be seated. Good Luck!!!
edit: I advise also replacing the grommet since it will eventually get so hard and brittle that when you do have to replace it it will break up and pieces will fall into the engine.
What is the correct tire pressure of a 93 Toyota Cynos Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
the tyre pressure is 98 onwards
How do you remove the steering rack on 94 paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
It a pretty difficult job for someone who isn't a mechanic, but if you have the tools and want to try it, go for it. You will save yorself A LOT of money on labor (because I would charge a pretty penny on this car)
Tools:Good socket and wrench set, pair of pliers, *pitman arm puller, and some screwdrivers.
Procedure:1) loosen lug nuts2) jack up and support front of car (both sides)3) remove wheel4) remove the cotter pin from tie rod end and remove nut (17mm) tie rod end is located behind the brake rotor on the side closest to the fire wall)5) use your pitman arm puller (you could use a ball joint seperator fork, but arm puller is generally easier) to pop the tie rod end out of the nuckle.6) turn the tie rod end jam nut to the right to move it up the tie rod some. this will allow the tie rod end to turn so you can remove it. Count the turns it takes to get the tie rod end off.7) remove the tie rod end and jam nut and save them. You will need to put these back on your new rack.8) repeat steps 3 through 7 on the other side9) remove the air filter box (top and bottom) and disconnect the intace duct work to allow access to fittings on rack10) remove the hydraulic lines with a wrench (there are two. one leads in, and one returns p/s fluid) PS fluid will flow freely. you should catch this in a drain pan. I wouldn't reuse it, though. There could be contaminates in it from the damaged rack (depends how bad it was damaged)11) there is what appears to be some sort of solenoid with two vacuum lines on the opposite side of the two hydraulic lines. remove those lines, and unscrew the solenoid. save this. you will need it for your new rack.12) there is a plastic cover held in by small nuts just above the hydraulic lines where the rack is joined with that universal joint and the steering wheel assembly. remove this cover.13) there is one bolt that holds the spline coming from the rack into the u-joint. remove this completely14) there is another bolt inside the driver compartment on the top side of the u-joint. if you remove this, you can slide that u-jount up the spline and separate it from the rack. your car has an unusual ammount of leeway there. that is lucky for you.15) there are two brackets holding the rack to the firewall. each has two bolts. (one on top, one on bottom.) remove these two brackets and save the rubber behind them. If the rubber isn't there, or is not any good, you could just cut some radiator hose and wedge it in when you put them back. It just helps keep the rack from moving (which it generally won't anyway.)16) it is recommended that you remove that transmission mount that is right in the way, but it is possible to work around it. once the rack is completely free of all connections, brackets, and the u-joint, you will have to wiggle it out. The easiest way (listen carefully. this is tricky, but it will work) is to slide the rack toward the driver's side as far as it will go, making sure the tie rod on the passenger side is out of it's hole and free to move about. then, tilt the passenger side of the rack down and wedge it between the oil pan and the c/v axle. You will probably have to rotate the rack a half turn to make the spline face down. I don't believe you can get it out with it facing up. It should, with a little work, slide out.17) if you actually made it this far, you should become a mechanic. Istallation is exactly the reverse of removal. you may have some trouble connecting the steering wheel to the rack so that the wheels and the steering wheel is straight. the easiest (really the only) way is to put everything back together and set the car down. straighten the wheels and then you can disconnect that u-joint again and set it straight. The only thing to keep in mind when putting the new rack is remembering how many turns it took to get the tie rod ends off. This should get it somewhat close to proper alignment, but not close enough. You will still need a front end alignment after replacing the rack. That's just one of those things. and do not forget to put power steering fluid back in!!!!! Good luck.
How to remove 1992 Toyota Paseo spark plug?
Asked by Wiki User
The process is simple so I will assume you know nothing about what you are attempting to do. I am describing the process for a 4 cylinder engine with a 5 speed manual stick shift. Check your airfilter before you change plugs. A clogged air filter will cause your Paseo to run badly, very much like the plugs are bad. The air filter in the 92 Paseo is upside down from other filters. When you take off the cover, you are looking at the clean side of the filter. You must remove the filter to check the dirty side. If it is REALLY dirty, replace it and see how your Paseo runs. If that doesn't improve anything, then check to see if each of the spark plug wires is fastened snugly to the distributor cap (round plastic thing on right side of engine with wires coming out of it). If that doesn't work, then you need to check to see if each of the wires is connected to its spark plug. You will see a group of wires on the top of the engine. In my case, there are 4 wires because there are 4 cylinders. Each wire buries itself into a square rubber plug. When you manage to pull up one of the rubber plugs, you will find a well that is about 4 inches deep. Inside the well you will find a thick rubber sleeve around the wire. The spark plug is at the bottom of that sleeve, screwed into the engine. You are going to pull the rubber sleeve off of the spark plug, but be very careful to pull on the sleeve and not the wire or you may damage the wire, which is quite expensive to replace. DO ONE PLUG AT A TIME OR YOU MAY NOT REMEMBER WHICH WIRE GOES TO WHICH PLUG . THE POSITION OF THE WIRES IS VERY IMPORTANT. If the rubber sleeve pulls off the plug with little effort, then the connection was bad and you may not need a new plug. Force the sleeve back down onto the sparkplug and see if the engine runs any better. If that solved your problem, then make sure the rubber plug is snug in its seat so that road water doesn't splash into the well and corrode the connection at the spark plug. Assuming you werent' that lucky, and you had to use some force to remove the rubber sleeve from the spark plug, inspect the metal connector inside the end of the rubber sleeve. If it is corroded or very dirty, try to remove the corrosion with a piece of emery cloth wrapped around a stick (tool, pen, pencil, etc) or a piece of dry scouring pad or a pen knife, then push the connection back onto the spark plug and see if the engine runs better. If that did not do anything, then it's plug replacement time. Assuming you are a real rookie, drive the Paseo to a parts store so the parts person can see what kind of Paseo you have. Ask the parts person for spark plugs for the type of Paseo you have. When you can't answer the questions, tell them the Paseo is parked outside and to please look. Ask the parts person what the spark plug gap is supposed to be. Ask what the spark plug gap is on the ones you are buying. If the gap is not the same, then ask the parts guy very nicely to "set the spark plug gaps" for you (admit you are a rookie). If they won't do it, then you'll have to buy a tool to set the gap. Buy the cheapest tool they have for this and ask them to show you how to use it. Set the gap right there. If you are doing it wrong, human nature will cause them to help you, provided you have been appropriately humble about being such a dufus. After the gap has been set, be very careful not to do anything to the plug to alter the gap--DON'T DROP IT. If you don't have the right tools, then tell the parts person that you need a "spark plug socket" (these are not commonly in a tool set). If you do not have any tools, then you will also need a socket wrench and an extension long enough to reach the spark plug , about 6" ought to do. Ask the parts person to show you how the ratchet on the socket wrench works. Plugs and tools are going to cost quite a bit, around $40. Sockets and socket wrenches come in varying quality and therefore, varying prices. If all you are going to do with your socket wrench is pull the plugs, you wont need one of high quality, BUT YOU MUST HAVE A SNAP FIT BETWEEN THE SOCKET AND THE EXTENSION. You now have everything you need to remove and replace the spark plugs. Snap the extension into the plug and the wrench into the extension. Set the ratchet so the force will be applied counterclockwise, lower the socket into the well, snap the socket over the plug. If there is no resistance, the ratchet is set incorrectly. Hold the ratchet part of the wrench in one hand to keep it aligned and use the other hand to push the wrench handle. If there is no resistance, the ratchet is set incorrectly. If your engine is hot, the plugs take more force to remove than when the engine is cold. Apply force steadily. Expect this part to require quite a bit of force. If that plug refuses to come out of its seat, then spray a LITLE BIT of WD40 into the well and wait a few minutes before you try to unscrew the spark plug. Once that plug is out, you can look at the spark plug tip and tell quite a bit about how your engine is running, but you, as a rookie, will need to have some pictures with you that show what plugs look like when the engine is firing correctly, burning oil, or not getting enough air. But that is a perk, not a necessity. Save the spark plug. Pull the extension off the wrench, insert a new spark plug into the socket and gently guide the plug into its seat, and, using your fingers to guide the extension, thread the plug into its seat until your fingers aren't strong enough to do it. That should be several turns. If it it hard to turn right away, then you may have it cross-threaded and you are on your way to a disaster if you force it. Back it off and try again. When you are confident it is seated properly, reset the ratchet on the wrench to go the other direction, and secure it to the extension. Hold the ratchet part of the wrench to keep it aligned and pull the wrench handle until the spark plug feels snug. Now, tighten it down a LITTLE BIT more. Pull the extension up gently; hopefully the socket came up with it. If not, then you are going fishing. Once the socket is removed, push the rubber sleeve down onto the spark plug firmly; hopefully you will feel it "snap" down onto the spark plug. Do each plug the same way. If your Paseo still runs badly, then you should replace either 1. the distributor cap AND ROTOR or 2. The plug wires (or maybe both) whichever is the least expensive first. But that is all the instruction I have time for today. Good luck.
How do you change a headlight bulb in a 1992 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
I had to change one of mine, seems to methere was a plastic shell so to speak behind the headlight, under the hood. Get that out of the way and it's just a twist and pull bulb insert, and then twist and pull bulb. It is however a very tight space to get the bulb insert in and out, just got to deal with it.
How do you replace fuel pump on 1997 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
drain the fuel tank if possible and drop it to remove the electric fuel pump assy. make sure you get the o-ring in proper or you will do the whole job again for practice. you should be an expert if this occurs. replace the fuel filter as well because it gets filled with crap when the pump fails.
Where is the dipstick for the transmission fluid in a 92 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
The dipstick is at the front, right side of the engine when you are standing in front of the car looking under the hood. It is located between the distributor cap and black plastic air intake, and should have a round red handle. This is of course for and automatic tranny.
How do you make your heater blow hot air in your 93 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
There are 2 most likely sources of your heat problem. 1.If your thermostat is defective, you will get very little heat from your car. 2.You may have bad heater core. I will describe the thermostat problem since it is more easily repaired as a DIY( do it yourself) and is more likely to be your problem. First, make sure that your fan is working. Turn off your radio, listen to the air noise as your move the fan speed knob on your panel. Assuming that that is working, you need to check your coolant temp gauge. Its located on the bottom left of your gauge cluster. Start your vehicle, say for your normal morning work commute and observe the temp gauge. Your car may need 5-10 minutes to warm up depending on the outdoor temperature. After this time frame, look at the position of the needle on your temp gauge. If your thermostat is working properly, the needle should move to the middle of the range of the gauge. If the gauge stays near or at the bottom of the gauge, your thermostat is bad and needs to be replaced. If the gauge reads at the middle and you can't get any heat, you may have a heater core problem or your heater core vacuum valve is malfunctioning.
How do you replace the Thermostat on 1993 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
i have a 92 but im sure its the same as mine .first find the upper radiator hose it should be on the right side of the radiator follow the hose to the engine you should see 2 10mm bolts holding the thermo stat housing down simply remove them take it out and replace it be sure you dont crank the bolts too much they use weak bolts from the factory i hope this helps
What is the price for an engine for a Toyota paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
I found a used Toyota Paseo engine from Enginesrus for $750 delivered to a business address. It arrived and looks great. We are in the middle of replacing it now.
How do you remove a sONY stereo from a Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
1. from bottom of trim panel around stereo pull from dash. 2. pull panel down to release latches at top. 3. remove 4 screws securing car stereo and pocket to dash. 4. pull car stereo forward, disconect antenna and connectors.
Pictures of 1992 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
log onto Google, click on images, type in 1992 Toyota paseo.
How do you replace the radio on the 1996 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
You can replace the radio, on your 1996 Toyota, I removing the radio front cover. Remove the retaining screws. Unplug the wiring harness. Reverse the process to install the new radio.
Where are the timing marks on a 1992 Toyota Paseo 16 efi 1.5 liter engine?
Asked by Wiki User
Where are the timing marks on a 1992 Toyota Paseo 16 efi 1.5 liter engine?
How to Change a wheel bearing on a 92 Toyota Paseo?
Asked by Wiki User
Changing the wheel bearing in a 1992 Toyota is simple. All you do is remove the wheel hub, take off the C clips, use a hammer to remove the bearing which is connected to the C clips. You can also take them into a shop and have them removed.
What could a loud squeak when turning the steering wheel on a 94 Toyota Paseo if the power steering fluid level is fine?
Asked by Wiki User
It probably means your power steering belt is loose or needs to be replaced. When you turn, the pump is under load and the belt is slipping on the pulley making a squeal.
