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Depending on what year, make and model you have, your local auto parts store can sell you pin and bushing kits to rebuild the door hinges. More than likely this is the reason the door has dropped.

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i'm almost certain its the same as changing a starter on a 93 tercel that i did a few days ago...VERY easy! well, it should be located under the intake manifold towards the back of the engine...there's just two bolts and a nut you have to loosen to get it off...the nut needs 10mm socket and i forgot but i think the two bolts are either the same or 12mm...take out the air filter first so you can remove the starter easier and you can see it better as well...looking at the new starter you boght to replace the old one helps as well, so you can see how the bolt pattern is and estimate where the bolts sre in the engine bay...what i did was: 1) disconnect the battery! or you'll get shocked! 2)jack up car and went underneath...there's a black rubber boot that is over a wire that is connected to the starter once you're under the car remove the boot so you can see the 10mm bolt and disconnect that 3)remove air filter assembly 4)find the two bigger bolts (i think they're 12mm but they could be 10mm) and unbolt those, look at new starter to guesstimate where they'd be...the bolt heads should be facing the driver's side 5)starter should come right off, then reverse the steps to put in new starter 6)reconnect battery terminals & your done!

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go to napa and buy a new 1 I think napa has the best reuilt starters.This is your best bet.

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assuming you already have the tach you would: 1. locate a spot to attach it where you can see it easily without having to look to far or have it impare your view of the road. 2. locate the best place in the firewall to drill a hole for the wires. 3. locate your ignition coil. 4. locate one of your dash light power leads. 5. locate a secure, metal,paint free area to attach your ground wire to. 6. mount your tach in the desired location (may have to drill holes first.) 7. if nescessary, drill the hole in your firewall for the wires. 8. cut the tach wires a few inches longer than the routed distance between your mounting location and their respective destinations (commonly red = coil, black = ground, green = lights.) 9. route and attach wires (coil wire goes to possitive.) 10. set your tach's redline to match your car's redline. 11. learn to rip off redline shifts in sets of 5.

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be shure the crank is on tdc and look at the sprocket on the cam you will see a dot . put the dot straight up and put it back together.if you don't know tdc check the timing mark at 0 against the harmonic balance.if you still don't get it you need a tech. . this isn't a job for a novice.

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it is right on the back of the engine you have to first unbolt the wire going into the back of it then there should be 2 bolts and it just slides out and then reverse the process to install its really not that bad

A good tip if your starter clicks but does not spin the motor (a most common starter failure). The starter solenoid is easily removed and opened once the starter has been removed from the car. It has a metalic disc inside which makes contact with two internal bolts as the solenoid is activated. These become charred and burned over a long time and can be sanded and cleaned to restore usage for several more years. This has has been a long used process on many other types of automobile starters.

without remove the air filter assembly, bolts are difficult to access.

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1342

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I would suggest you try to find the manufacturer of your tachometer on the web and check out their support site and email them if needed for your particuliar vehicle. For instance below is a link to Autometer's Tech Tip web site however unless you own an Autometer Tach this may be useless to you. There are so many different ignition systems today that it would be difficult to explain each. So its best to get the info from the pro's. , EzForJesus

http://hp.autometer.com/techtips/techtips.html

It's really easy. First you need to find wich wire on the tachometer is the coil signal. Take the black wire and put it on the ground of a 9V batterie then try all the other wires on the positive side of the battery until the RPM move. this is your coil wire. Go on the engine compartiment and find the coil. Start the car. Whit a test lamp try all the wire on the coil until you find the one who flash. Plug the coil wire (on the tachometer) on this wire and the black one on a nice ground. Finally plug the other wire(s) to a 12v source who works only with the key at the RUN position. And it's done

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You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library. Call this number...800-352-3943

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this is caused by one of two things. the drivers seatbelt receiver(the thing you put the belt into) has a sensor in it. find the wires that go to it and unplug the inline plug. the light should turn off. if it does not, try putting a jumper wire between the 2 terminals on the harness side (not the seatbelt side) if the light still stays on it needs a seatbelt assembly. its located low on the "b" pillar. you need to remove some trim pieces and a couple bolts to replace it. good luck!

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take off inside panel and unbolt should be 3 bolts

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Well , the 1.3 liter ( 81 cubic inch ) engine in a 1991 Ford Festiva is rated at 63 horsepower

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tire pressure varies by type, but it is always written on the sidewall of the tire.

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Check bulbs or wireharness at back of bulbs.Switch handle that turns lights could be bad Toyo joe

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Si

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Underneath intake manifold towards drivers side of back of motor

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The brake relay switch is bad.

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You have to remove the wheel hub and remove the c clip in the hub that secures the bearing. You can have the bearing/races pressed out or you can use a slide hammer to remove them. You will need to take care when installing new races that you don't scratch or nick them by using old races over the top of the new ones to drive them in with a hammer. You may just want to remove the hub and take to a shop and have them do it for you if you don't have the tools.

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disconnect negative battery tml.,remove the plug from the alternator,remove the main battery wire from the stud on the alternator, remove the lock bolt, swing alternator down to remove belt, remove pivot bolt, swing alt. until its out. replacement is reverse of remova;

To take out the alternator on a 88' tercel, you have to do it from under the car

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Get a shop manual from the parts store and it will show you what to set them at and give tips on how to replace it. GoodluckJoe

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If it is the tail lights, it is the headlight switch. If it is the brake lights, it is probably the brake light switch. I really don't know how to replace the bulb in the 3rd light. change the brake light bulb first it may be shorted causeing the other problem

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four (4) litres My owners manual says 3 quarts.

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find the timing spec on the label under the hood ( i think its 10 degrees BTC) get engine to operating temperature find the grey plug in the engine compartment labeled "diagnosis" open the cover and with a jumper wire, connect tmls. TE1 and E1 (this makes the engine run at base timing) clamp timing light around #1 plugwire clip power and ground leads of timing light to battery shine on timing marks, if the timing is off loosen the 2 12mm bolts securing the distributor to the head and twist until the mark on the pulley matches the spec. tighten the bolts remove timing light and jumper

IGNITION TIMING: Carburated models Without vacuum advance hose connected: 3 degrees BTDC. With vacuum advance hose connected: 12 to 18 degrees BTDC.

1990 through 1993 fuel-injected models With test terminals T and E1 grounded: 10 degrees BTDC. Without test terminals T and E1 grounded: timing fluctuates between 7 and 17 degrees BTDC.

1994 fuel injected models With test terminals TE1 and E1 grounded: 10 degrees BTDC. Without test terminals TE1 and E1 grounded: timing fluctuates between 7 and 17 degrees BTDC.

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Remove the screw that holds the trim piece in place the pull that out. then you can either remove the whole cluster or leave it in. I would just leave it in. Remove the plastic cover, there should be four clips holding it on. then remove the needles from the gauges make sure to remember where your fuel one is to. then remove the screws that hold the panels on and pull them out, then pull the old bulbs out, you may need to use a pair of needle nose pillars then put the new bulb in and put everything back on but turn your car on before putting the clear plastic back on to make sure your gauges are accurate.

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Usually a problem in the emission control system - have vehicle scanned to determine the problem Usually a problem in the emission control system - have vehicle scanned to determine the problem Usually a problem in the emission control system - have vehicle scanned to determine the problem