The dashboard on a Toyota Previa is held on with several bolts. All must be removed. After the bolts are removed so must be the remaining clips. The dashboard that has to be carefully removed from the cabin of the vehicle.

go to your owners manuel, there is a section in there that will tell you or call your local dealer

on top of the engine under a large round cap placed on top of carbie.

I just did this job & visited the dealer. It's not the crank pulley. The mechanic was very helpful & printed out the info. w/pictures. Chilton & Hayes books have lousy pictures of this job. The water pump is on the pulley which appears to be an idler pulley. Most of the work have to be done from underneath the car. The mechanics have a name for it, TJMF.(the Japanese mother f..) The pictures shown are looking up from below, but they don't tell you this.

You just follow the instructions in the book, once you located the pump. Actually this is on my local free library auto service site. Access is with library card No. The same info. is in the books.

The pump has on the discharge side a pipe w/a round seal or oring on it. You need to replace this & put silicone sealer on it. The Japanese have this weird part, called intake manifold stayput which keeps the pipe in place at the other end. In my case there were 3 bolts instead of the 2 the book mentioned. I've removed them & this plate. I've removed the 3 hold down bolts from the pump. Now I could wiggle the pump, so the pipe would separate. Replaced the oring w/sealer. The suction side of the pump was metal to metal flat w/a groove on the pump side. I saw no oring, because this is less pressure. I scraped it clean & put silicone sealer on it & replaced the pump. Made sure the discharge pipe fits in & had to play with it. It worked & put everything back.

where do you think it goes it not rocket sciance your be asking how to start the car next look in the engined bar for a bottle with a tap symble on that your warter

oil has a big cap with oil on it

Go have Your Fuel Pump REPLACED

Service and Repair

REMOVAL

1. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT 2. REMOVE GENERATOR 3. REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD STAY

1. Disconnect the 2 engine wire clamps from the intake manifold stay. Remove the bolt, nut and intake manifold stay.

4. REMOVE WATER INLET PIPE

1. Disconnect these hoses:

1) Water inlet hose 2) Heater inlet hose 3) Water bypass hose

2. Remove the bolt, water inlet pipe and O-ring.

5. REMOVE OIL DIPSTICK GUIDE AND GENERATOR ADJUSTING BAR

1. Disconnect these wire clamps:

1) Engine wire clamp 2) Connector clamp for crankshaft position sensor

2. Remove the oil dipstick. 3. Remove the mounting bolt of the dipstick guide clamp and generator adjusting bar. 4. Pull out the dipstick guide. Plug the guide installation hole of the oil pump. 5. Remove the O-ring from the dipstick guide.

6. REMOVE WATER PUMP Remove the bolt, 2 nuts and water pump.

INSPECTION

1. INSPECT WATER PUMP

1. Visually check the water hole for coolant leakage. If leakage is found, replace the water pump. 2. Turn the pulley, and check that the water pump bearing moves smoothly and quietly. If necessary, replace the water pump.

INSTALLATION

1. INSTALL WATER PUMP

1. Remove any old packing Formed In Place Gasket (FIPG) material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contact surfaces of the water pump and cylinder block.

o Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all the old packing (FIPG) material from the contact surfaces and sealing groove. o Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose material. o Using a non-residue solvent, clean both sealing surfaces.

2. Apply seal packing to the water pump groove. Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00100, THREE BOND 1282B or equivalent

o Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 2 - 3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 inch) opening.

HINT: Avoid applying an excessive amount to the surface.

* Parts must be assembled within 5 minutes of application. Otherwise the material must be removed and reapplied. * Immediately remove nozzle from the tube and reinstall cap. * Do not pour in any coolant until at least 2 hours after installation is completed.

3. Install the water pump with the bolt and 2 nuts. Torque: 17.5 Nm (175 kgf/cm, 13 ft. lbs.)

2. INSTALL OIL DIPSTICK GUIDE AND GENERATOR ADJUSTING BAR

1. Install a new O-ring to the dipstick guide. 2. Apply soapy water to the ring. 3. Push in the dipstick guide, and install it with the mounting bolt of the generator adjusting bar and dipstick guide clamp. Torque: 18.5 Nm (185 kgf/cm, 14 ft. lbs.) 4. Install the oil dipstick. 5. Connect these wire clamps:

o Connector clamp for crankshaft position sensor o Engine wire clamp

3. INSTALL WATER INLET PIPE

1. Install a new O-ring to the water inlet pipe. 2. Apply a little soap and water to the O-ring. 3. Insert the water inlet pipe to the water pump.

NOTICE: Installing the water inlet pipe at an angle or twisting it during installation will cause pinching or tearing of the O-ring.

4. Install the water inlet pipe with the bolt. Torque: 7.5 Nm (75 kgf/cm, 66 inch lbs.) 5. Connect these hoses:

o Water inlet hose o Heater inlet hose o Water bypass hose

4. INSTALL INTAKE MANIFOLD STAY

1. Install the intake manifold stay with the bolt and nut. Torque: 20 Nm (200 kgf/cm, 15 ft. lbs.) 2. Connect the 2 engine wire clamps to the intake manifold stay.

5. INSTALL GENERATOR 6. FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT 7. START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

the starter cellanoid needs replaced.

1) use a smoke machine. Failing that:

2) let it sit with engine off for a long time, then start it cold and immediately spray all over the place with carb cleaner. If spraying a spot with carb cleaner makes a change in the sound of the engine suspect that area. Carb cleaner can damage paint and rubber.

3) Vacuum leaks often make a hissing noise. Also note that with a vacuum leak fuel trims tend to go rich (positive) at idle, if you have a scan tool that reads them.

A bad coil is usually a dead coil. The are generally thought of as on or off.

The OBD2, 16 pin connector almost under the dash on drivers side has been used on all makes and models since late 90's. On Board Diagnostics version #2 has the power to diagnose more aspects of your car than the previous version(OBD1). Soon there will be OBD3 that will pretty much diagnose eveything and the mechanic would have to just replace the part. These days things like vehicle top speed may have reached to how loud you turn up the boom box......your car can literally snitch on you...watch out...

Remove the lower part of the back seat by pulling upwards hard at the front lower edges. You will then find a black metal plate, remove this and the top of the fuel tank will be exposed. Disconnect the wires and hoses, then remove the top section out of the tank, with the fuel pump attached. Be careful turning as needed as to not damage the float. You can now replace the pump itself and reassemble as you took it apart.

just did the timing on my 91 tercel... very easy... only problem i think im a hair off... runs great but when doggin it, it has a slight hessatation until high rpms and then skoots off.. ima borrow a friends timing light and see whats the deal... your best bet is to hit up autozone or advanced auto and buy a HAYNES book... that's what i used plus a little past knowledge and it worked out easily...

Toyota Tercel was created in 1978.

It is rubber, just changed mine on my redhawk!

may be security system - indicating that if radio removed from this vehicle, it will not work in another

It is on the very rear of the differential case. Think of it as nearly in front of your feet when sitting in the driver's seat. Many posts erroneously say that the differential and trans share the same fluid. Not true. My car was given to me and I put a new engine in it. It bugged me that no fluid came out when I pulled the axles. I went ahead and replaced the seals. Anyway, I found that there is a plug and that it took nearly 3/4 of a quart of dexron to fill it up. So.... it was 1/2 empty! I didn't have a metric socket big enough but a 15/16th socket fit fine. Good luck

Mike

http://www.mapcruzin.com

By banging things.

Go to a book store and buy either a CHILTON or a HAYNES manual/repair book for your car's year, make, and model. AUTO ZONE HAS THEM.

These give you step by step illustrated instructions on 100's of repair procedures, ON YOUR CAR. It shows you in the proper order, with pictures, how to take it apart, and how to put it back together, properly.

Most of these books are about $15.00 USD, and are worth every penny.

The only problem here is they do not make an at home repair guide for any Toyota Tercel after 1994. Here is the kicker, every thing about the Tercel changed in 95 so finding info on the Tercel from later years is almost imposible unless you buy a shop owners manual for all Toyota compack models for like $250.

You're going to want to invest in a Hayne's or Chilton manual for your car. If you're talking about the clutch release bearing, you're in for about 5 hours of labor (if you're as skilled as a shop mechanic). You have to remove the entire transaxle just to get to it. I had to replace mine, along with the clutch assembly, about a month ago, and it took me about 2 days. It's not fun. By the way, while you have all that stuff out, it is highly recommended that you go ahead and change the clutch assembly. The hardest part is getting the transaxle out, trust me. It's cake from there.

I have done a few of these and if you have never done one you dont want to start now. They are a real pain to do. SORRY, Ray

Sorry doesn't cut it when looking for an answer, Ray. I'm helping a friend out and glossed over his generic Chilton's manual. Taking the water pump bolts out directly is the hardest part. It is apparant that the housing shell connected to the motor mount is covering the top two bolts of the water pump. The manual shows that removing the alternator bracket to remove the water pump assembly (read: water pump PLUS its angled housing shell that its connected to) can be removed with three simple long bolts inverse to the water pump. Plan on 3-4 hours labor for us unskilled home mechanics. I with this answer. Sincerely, Craig