Multiple "clicks" check for a weak battery
Check fr loose or corroded battery cables Single "click"
Maybe a bad starter solenoid
DO YOU KNOWN HOW TO COUNT ? JUST POUR ONE QUART AT A TIME
First you pop the bottom of the door panel out. The next step is to take the three speaker bolts out ( 10 millimeters) After you remove the two nuts and one bolt holding the check in place you slide the door check inside the door and take it out through the speaker hole. Reverse procedure for installation.
overdrive off, on a 2003 it is in the end of the gear select lever
If it's the hidden button I think you are referring to, should you
experience electric release failure (where you cannot get
the shifter out of park) pushing this button is a manual over ride
allowing you to get the shifter out of park
We had this same problem on our 1998 Toyota Sienna; one dealer wanted $400 to replace the computer module inside the dash and another dealer quoted us $200. They also tried to "reset" the module but said it was "bad."
However, last month our battery died and it was 6 years old so time to get a new one. After install of new battery, suddenly my automatic locks starting working again at ignition, so I tried my remote keyless entry fob and VOILA--keyless entry now works!
I'm guessing the system reset on its own with the loss of power. SO--try disconnecting your battery for 10 minutes. This may reset your keyless entry as well. Best wishes! ~K. Gollnick
Try to use Toyota speaker adapter plugs so you don't need to cut wires and mess the electric system up. You can get them from Ebay or Amazon.
P0171 and P0174 mean "fuel mixture too lean" on cylinder bank 1 and bank 2 respectively. Sorry I don't know what causes this. Looking at this same problem on 2000 Ford Taurus. Believe it is going to be in the HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) Sensors. Bank 1 and 2 detecting too lean a condition. Yuck. Per the 1998 official Toyota shop manual for a Sienna, it could be a bad 1) coolant temp sensor 2) bad HO2S (or Fuel/Air sensors) 3) bad mass airflow sensor 4) restricted fuel somewhere (like the fuel filter in the tank! ouch.) First, check to function of the coolant temp sensor. You can pull it and play wiht your stove and boiling water or just buy a Carchip data collector and download the data to your computer to analyze. Second, before you replace that horribly expensive Mass Airflow Sensor, pull it out and *carefully* spray it clean with brake cleaner or an electronic cleaner of some sort. And do NOT touch any of the itty-bitty wires inside with anything or you WILL be replacing it. Third, if you have HO2S sensors, you can check the resistance of them using an multimeter to see if they are within spec. I forget exactly but it's something low like 9-12 ohms at 68F. If you have Fuel/Air sensors instead, it's dealer diagnostic time. Fourth, if you suspect fuel pressure or fuel flow issues, I recommend dealer diagnostic time too. My best friend got severely burned (2nd and 3rd degree on 50% of his body) messing with fuel and his VW bug when we were in high school. 25 years later, he is still covered in scar tissue and will be forever.
The 2004 Toyota Sienna has 67.5 in. of rear hip room.
Add fluid into the dipstick pipe.
ed724
Use a long nose funnel that could plug into the dipstick pipe and then add transmission fluid small quantity at a time and check level. Repeat until the correct mark (there is cold transmission fluid mark and a hot fluid mark on the dipstick). Never overfill tranmission fluid!
The height of the 2012 Toyota Sienna is 5 ft. 9.5 in. (69.5 in.).
The maximum payload of the 2004 Toyota Sienna is 1570 lbs..
The oil filter on the 2006 Toyota Sienna is in the front, pointing toward the front under the exhaust manifold. As you look under the hood from the front, it is in the center directly under the exhaust manifold.
A device that is made to remove tiny particles of dust from the incoming air.
Not on the underside. A full size spare would be too close to the ground to be practical.
12/2/08
Toyota Sequoia rear hatch latch assembly replacement. 2001-2006 models
I recently found it necessary to replace the rear hatchdoor latch assembly. It had broken and there was no way to open the rear hatch from the inside or outside.
The 2001 Sequoia sold in 2000 had 89,000 miles and was maintained well. It looks like this plastic part that failed is just a weak design and most or all will fail at some point.
1. You can open the rear hatch from the outside if you can get the small piece of the broken lever out of the square hole that is on the right side of the handle grip area. You will need to use a strong piece of wire or a screwdriver type tool with a slight bend on the end. The lever that pulls on the cable that opens the latch is located above the opening in the handle grip area, accessed through the small square hole. Insert the tool that you made and fish around to find the cable lever; you will need to have the tool pointed up to find the lever. Once you find the lever pull down to pull the lever. Note: make sure that the hatch is unlocked or it won't open.
2. If you can't locate the lever or can't make it open from the outside you will need to do it from the inside of the vehicle. This isn't fun but it can be accomplished with a little sweat and a few choice words thrown in.
3. You can work from the outside of the truck at this point, roll the rear glass down to give you access. The plastic trim pieces on each side of the rear glass can de popped off by hand, they each have three plastic barbs that hold them on. Remove them carefully and pull straight out to remove them, this will give you access to the large rear piece of plastic trim that covers the inside of the rear door.
4. Remove the vinyl pull-strap that is located on the rear panel, use a #2 Philips to do this. Now start to remove the large inside door panel. This panel has the rear glass inside rubber anti-rattle blade attached to the top of it. (If you were able to open the hatch door from the outside you can remove the inside panel by starting at the bottom of the panel and using a thin blade to lift the panel away from the door and then pop the plastic barbs loose, then lift it up and off of the door sheet-metal.) Starting at one corner, bend out and pull up on the panel where it is hooked over the top of the window opening sheet-metal. It takes a little force to get it started but be persistent, once it is started work towards the other end. Once it's loose at the top you can reach inside and pop loose the plastic barbs that retain the panel and remove it completely.
5. You now have access to the inside of the hatch. Remove the three round rubber grommets, this give you access to the latch lever that pulls on the release cable. Reach inside with a screwdriver push down on the lever and you will be able to release the latch on the hatch door and open it.
6. There is a white plastic cover covering the cable attachment point, remove it by pulling down and away from the assembly, it clips onto the assembly bracket and helps secure the cable to the lever attachment point. You can now release the cable from the assembly, remove the screws holding the license plate recess cover and the nut holding the key cylinder assembly and then remove the cable assembly bracket, (two nuts). Now you can remove the license plate recess panel and the broken latch lever assembly that is attached to it as a unit.
7. You can't just purchase the ($2.00) plastic piece that broke, Toyota will make you purchase the entire assembly, $63.00. By the way I shopped around and got three different estimates from Toyota Dealers, ranging from $280 to $360 to do this job. This first repair took me seven hours because I didn't know what I was doing, I spent 3 hours just attempting to open the hatch, I could do it now in about two hours.