Watercraft Hull Maintenance

Also called draft, this being the preferred usage. the amount of water drawn by a boat, that is, in layman"s terms how far down in the water is the hull submerged- ships have a water line and a Plimsoll line to facilitate this measurement, as there are seasonal variations on buoyancy- and legal limits- such as WNA winter North Atlantic. as a ship is loaded- or laden, naturally the vessel rides lower in the water owing to the increased draft. the opposite number- is any ship looks bigger in drydock!

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How does hull shape affect the speed of a boat? When trying to get the most speed out of your boat, you may want to consider how the hull shape affects the speed of the boat. "Hydrodynamic" is a term that is used when determining the motion or flow of water. It is similar to the more familiar term "aerodynamic," which relates to the flow of air. The speed of a boat is correlated to its hydrodynamic efficiency, and the hydrodynamic efficiency is determined by the shape of the hull of the boat.

The hull of the boat is the first area to be hit by water as you speed forward. A round or square hull will connect with the water like a force that is pushing against it. As the force of the water hits the boat hull straight on, the boat must push the water out of the way before it can attain optimal speed. This limitation of the boat's ability to get to a higher speed quickly is known as drag, and is affected by the hull shape.

A boat hull shape that is pointed allows the water to flow around the boat quickly. The less water that the hull needs to move out of the way, the faster the boat will go. How hull shape affects the speed of a boat is one factor that the military had taken into consideration when they started to build the V-shape hull design. This shape offers the most hydrodynamic efficiency, which gives the military a boat that can cut across water with little drag and perform well at high speeds.

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The Brits developed their own Landing Craft Tank (LCT) MK1 and II in 1940. Those were used in early British landing operations. After the US entered the war the MK III, IV, V and VI were jointly developed and built by the US and Britain from 1942 onward. The Brits developed the Landing Craft Machinery LCM in 1924 it was upgraded many times and used through WWII adopted by the US Army, the LCM was primarily for delivering large amounts of cargo to the beaches.

The USMC used the Higgins Boat, LCP-Landing Craft Personnel and LCVP (Vehicles and Personnel in the Pacific theatre). The only difference was the width of the ramp, the LCVP having a wider ramp. The British/Australians purchased some number of LCPL's-Landing Craft Personnel Large from the Higgins factory in Louisiana.

You can try white vinegar. A blog on boating provided a list of some environmentally safe products like Simple Green, Fantastic Orange Action for wood and grease, bleach in moderation for sanitation only, and Amazing Roll Off.

it means anchor

50:1

If boat has paint that is in good shape and you just want to change color, sand area with 400 to 600 grit then wipe clean with acetone,lacquer thinner or similar solvent then paint. If Paint is in bad shape strip chemically or sand to remove paint. Sand to 400 grit then you must use a etching primer then paint. It is not recommended that you paint below waterline.

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Usually you would use either a lambswool or medium pile mohair roller. Foam rollers are only for Topcoats generally, or maybe the very thin film racing antifouling such as VC17m or VC Offshore by International. Worth having a couple of types of roller with you, and see which works the best accoring to the smoothness or roughness of your hull.

The hull ID number on a boat is locatedin the upper right hand corner of the transom. It will be stamped on an affixed plate, or scribed into the hull itself.

I have a 1980's Eldocraft aluminum boat and the hull# is engraved on the starboard side of the transom. It was a little difficult to make out due to he shallow dept of each digit. Unless someone has painted or made some repairs, in that case you will have to have a new hull # issued by the state you register it in.

If it doesn't have an id then u cant ride the boat i think

A multi-hulled yacht or boat is also known as a catamaran. The official Definition is: A multi-hulled boat has at least three hulls, with the outside hulls extending forward beyond the central or inside hull or hulls.

The hulls are tapered with a cross-sectional configuration that increases in side front to rear, thus forming a channel or tunnel between adjacent hulls which decreases in cross-sectional size front to rear. Air entering the tunnels is compressed, thus imparting a lifting force to the hulls lifting the hulls partially out of the water to decrease the hydraulic drag on the hulls.

Multi-hulled boats are often offered for charter vacations around the world. An example of a multi-hulled boat is the Aldebaran located in the Caribbean: www.bookaldebaran.com

Dry dock does work as a safe place to build floating machines(ships, submarines , floating dry docks,etc...) or a safe place to repair the mentioned machines or a safe place to scrap the same mentioned machines completely.

All boats manufactured or imported on or after November 1, 1972 must bear a HIN. The HIN is a 12 character serial number that uniquely identifies your boat. The HIN has an important safety purpose. It enables manufacturers to clearly identify for boat owners the boats that are involved in a defect notification and recall campaign. A HIN is not the same as a State registration number, which may be required to be displayed on the bow of your boat. The HIN is a Federal requirement; your boat's registration number is a State requirement similar to the license plate on your car. The HIN, however, is required to be shown on the State certificate of registration.

The boat manufacturer must display two identical hull identification numbers, no less than one-fourth of an inch high, on each boat hull. The primary HIN must be permanently affixed (so that it can be seen from outside the boat) to the starboard side of the transom within two inches of the top of the transom, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is lowest. On boats without transoms or on boats on which it would be impractical to the transom, the HIN must be affixed to the starboard outboard side of the hull, aft within one foot of the stern and within two inches of the top of hull side, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is lowest. The starboard outboard side of the hull aft is the preferred HIN location for many manufacturers. On catamarans and pontoon boats the HIN must be affixed on the aft crossbeam within one foot of the starboard hull attachment. The second is usually hidden inside somewhere.

It floats because the shape of the hull with a large cavity inside displacing the water counteracts the weight of the metal hull. The water displacement counteracts the force of gravity, spreading the weight of the boat out across a larger surface area with a great tensile strength, resisting the force of gravity.

The last two digits in the hull ID number are usually the year of manufacture. The ID number is usually stamped into the starboard side of the transom, near the top.

There is water in it!!!!

An outboard motor generally is attached either directly to the transom of the boat, or to a bracket that is attached to the transom of the boat.

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A catamaran (or just a 'cat') has two hulls on both sailboats and power boats

A trimaran has more than two.

All boats manufactured or imported on or after November 1, 1972 must bear a HIN. The HIN is a 12 character serial number that uniquely identifies your boat. The HIN has an important safety purpose. It enables manufacturers to clearly identify for boat owners the boats that are involved in a defect notification and recall campaign. A HIN is not the same as a State registration number, which may be required to be displayed on the bow of your boat. The HIN is a Federal requirement; your boat's registration number is a State requirement similar to the license plate on your car. The HIN, however, is required to be shown on the State certificate of registration.

The boat manufacturer must display two identical hull identification numbers, no less than one-fourth of an inch high, on each boat hull. The primary HIN must be permanently affixed (so that it can be seen from outside the boat) to the starboard side of the transom within two inches of the top of the transom, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is lowest. On boats without transoms or on boats on which it would be impractical to the transom, the HIN must be affixed to the starboard outboard side of the hull, aft within one foot of the stern and within two inches of the top of hull side, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is lowest. The starboard outboard side of the hull aft is the preferred HIN location for many manufacturers. On catamarans and pontoon boats the HIN must be affixed on the aft crossbeam within one foot of the starboard hull attachment. The second is usually hidden inside somewhere.

For a quick temporary fix, wire brush leak inside and outside and apply waterproof silicone sealer. (both sides...let dry)

first remove all equip from boat, flip it upside down onto saw horses, check for loose rivits, ,[first purchase some alum brazing rods,] can be found at harbor freight, you will need a steel or copper wire brush, and a MAP gas torch, locate where the leak might be comming from, wire brush the area good, heat the area with torch, when the alum brazing rod starts to melt when [scratched] on the area put a thin layer on it then wire brush it while heating it, then fill in the area.or follow directions on rod usage.