The longest living gerbil on record lived for 8 years and 4 months. Gerbils typically have a lifespan of 2-4 years in captivity with proper care.

Any cage material that is plastic should be removed. If the cage is plastic, try your best to get a tank for the little ones. If you can't manage that, try to distract them with dyeless toilet roles and other clean paper products. Gerbils shouldn't have plastic in their environment because it can harm their insides. Good luck with your great rodents!

Why would you want to litter train your gerbils in the first place? some bedding is very absorbent and will just soak in their "business" and won't bother them. If you really want to litter train your gerbils, give them a treat when they pee in the place that you want them to go in and eventually they will learn that peeing in the corner or wherever you want them is fun.

Here is the list for American English :

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Here is the list for british English :

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You don't have to do anything. Fresh fruit and vegetables arnt available in the dessert where gerbils originate from so it is no a necessary requirement in their diet. If you want them to eat fresh foods I would look up all the foods they can eat and try them on different things there must be something they like. Also if they weren't feed fresh foods by the first owner they won't be used to it or want it. My gerbils don't like fresh foods they just leave them. I tried them on different things. I found out one of them likes dandelion leaves but they all love stale, whole meal bread so you could try them. Gerbils can also eat lettuce, apple, various berries ( look up which are OK, carrots, bananas as well as other things.

yes on there back legs i have a gerbil and i seen her do it

It probably isn't such a good idea to use shredded paper for bedding. Depending on where you get the paper, like recycled or newspaper, the ink may be harmful. Also, regular paper wouldn't be as absorbant as bedding and unless you plan on changing the paper everyday it would be dangerous to the gerbil's health to live in its own waste.

Well, it all depends. If you have a single female brown/tan gerbil (albino included) and one male brown/tan gerbil (albino included) alone in a cage, this answer will apply:

By average, the female will have 5 babies a month. so, if there are 12 months in a year, it will have (by average) 60 babies a year. Don't keep them all, and Don't just let them go. It's against the law to release numerous rodents.

they will if you don't take the male gerbil out of the cage after around less than a two weeks because if they mate after the female gerbil has her pups than they will mate again and she will not take care of the first litter of pups.

It is wagging it's tail for three different reasons. 1) It might be because of training at the pet shop before you got it, 2) It may be wagging because of the cold. Mine wagged its tail when it was cold. If it is cold I'm sorry, it is dying or 3) Nerves. They do it self-consciously sometimes.

Gerbils do eat the strawberries and other kinds of berries as well. If youre a pet owner giving your gerbil strawberries, you just need to make sure they are washed and dried and not given in excess.

At Petsmart gerbils cost $11.99 according to the website

Some stores don't sell gerbils. For example all Petsmart stores in California do not sell gerbils, because gerbils are illegal in California since they eat crops.

Like humans, gerbils have different levels of desire to exercise. Some will love their wheels/balls, some will care less about them. Just as some people are couch potatoes and not likely to get up to change a channel on the TV, some gerbils will look at that wheel as just a decoration in their home.

The best way to encourage your gerbil to use the wheel/ball is to provide it, but also to help them use it. Put the gerbil in it. Gently show him how it works. This works even better with the ball than the wheel. I prefer the balls that have the little stands with them. I can put a gerbil in the ball, and the ball on the stand. The gerbil has no way to get out, and any motion he makes will make the ball turn. He will soon catch on to how to make it move. If I give him position encouragement (with my voice) when he moves it, and then a positive encouragement when he is done with the session (like a pumpkin or sunflower seed), he will soon learn to do that behavior to get the reward.

Start out with short sessions - maybe 30 seconds or a minute, and work up to longer periods, and soon your gerbil will be ready to challenge my blue ribbon winner at the next sanctioned AGS (American Gerbil Society) show (see www.agsgerbils.org for more gerbil information).

When I put my gerbil KE$HA in her ball I motivate her with a seed which she LOVES and she just sits there or tries to nudge it with her head. Maybe it's because this is her second day here but she already seems used to everything else. PLZ HELP

The number one thing a daffodil needs to survive is sun, sun and more sun. It needs at least 6 hours of sun per day to produce the flower, maintain the plant tissues and store energy in the bulb for the next year's growth and flower.

The second thing is not too much water. Daffodils like an area that is well drained. Soggy feet cause rot and will kill the plant and bulb.

Thirdly the plant needs moderate nutrients, and naturally occuring organic soil (mulched and earthworm friendly) will produce better daffodils than chemical formulations in a bag.

This may be a cause of illness. If your gerbil shows lack of interest in food and water, then it may indeed be sick. Does it spend a lot of time sleeping?

Also, is your gerbil alone? Gerbils need companionship because if they are alone too log, most gerbils actually die of loneliness. They lose interest in a lot of things they used to do when they had their companions. My advice, go to a vet and get him checked out.

Yes. But NEVER use pine or ceder bedding it can kill them, same with mice.

They need time to themselves, to eat, sleep, drink and groom themselves. Once or twice a day for up to 30 mins is OK. You will discover in time what is bad/good for them. Every gerbil is different.

The Vet. If you can't take him/her to the vet then, make sure he has food/water and look online for something like, common gerbil ailments. See if any of the symptoms match and then take appropriate action.

i don't think so, but if you do i would watch them and take one out of the cage at night so they don't fight and if they fight and draw blood then you'll have to keep them apart and they will not become friendly EVER AGAIN!!

believe me, I know. I had it happen to me... i don't think so, but if you do i would watch them and take one out of the cage at night so they don't fight and if they fight and draw blood then you'll have to keep them apart and they will not become friendly EVER AGAIN!!

believe me, I know. I had it happen to me... i don't think so, but if you do i would watch them and take one out of the cage at night so they don't fight and if they fight and draw blood then you'll have to keep them apart and they will not become friendly EVER AGAIN!!

believe me, I know. I had it happen to me...

It's almost impossible to tell exactly, especially as gerbils live for different lengths of time and their health is more or less good, depending on what environment they are kept in and how they are handled.

Gerbils are born naked and start to develop fur at about a week. They should have a decent coat of fur by about two weeks and open their eyes at around three weeks (though all these can vary) At about a month they are fully furred with very soft, fine fur, which looks shiny when it lies flat, but goes quite scruffy, as if it is oily, when it is ruffled. The backs of their heads also look different at this age. It is hard to describe, but you get to recognise it. It is like the difference between looking at the neck of a small child and the neck of an adult human. The head looks rounder from behind at this age and the eyes often look larger in the head - basically they look more babyish than a fully adult gerbil. They will be lively and not want to stay still in your hand for more than a few seconds. They tend to be a little reckless, launching themselves off shoulders and so on without thinking about where they are going to land.

At around three to four months, they lose the babyish characteristics. The back of the head appears flatter and the eyes look sharper. The fur also tends to thicken up a bit and if they are being fed well, they will have a sturdier shape and look less scrawny than they did. They will still be very lively, but may start to sit still for a while if they feel comfortable.

If gerbils are kept in a suitable enclosure and handled and fed properly, they should live for three to four years, five in many cases. During their lives, there is very little by which to age them. You can start to see when they get old however. Their fur will tend to get scruffier as they get old and there are certain complaints that only really affect older gerbils. You may see more irritation around the eyes, or have more discolouration on the teeth. The biggest one is a stomach tumor that is relatively common. It usually starts as a small lump near the scent gland on the belly, and will probably not worry them at all. It is usually treatable by a vet, but will usually be what kills them if not, as it will grow and grow until it is very noticeable and causes them discomfort. You rarely see it on young gerbils.

An old gerbil should still have plenty of energy, but will stay still for much longer, if you get it out a lot, it will go to sleep in your hand or on your lap. The percentage of time spent sleeping will increase.

You cannot really give a time when a gerbil is old. If you keep them in a small cage with little stimulation they may be old at two years. If you keep them in a tank with earth and plenty to do, they may stay young till they are four.

You can use shredded newspapers. Hope this helped!!

Gerbils are not extrmely hard to take care of. They need a cage (obviously (: ) but not a very large one; I have two and they used to live in a ten gallon terrarium just fine. (I got an attachment for Christmas last year). They need food, which is not hard to find at all. Food specifically for gerbils is available, but most hamster foods also work. Also, they need oats, and green vegetables, like lettuce and spinach. They LOVE oats and veggies.Treats are also a nice addition to their eceryday meal, but should not replace anything. There are many treats in pet stores that gerbils like. Mine like 'Honey and Yogurt Drops'. They also like Cap'n Peanut Butter Crunch. They need a regular-sized rodent water bottle and cold water, renewed once weekly. For their health, a weekly cleaning is good. To set up their cage, I put paper towels in to keep their, eh, digestion byproducts from sticking to the glass on the bottom of the cage. On top of thatm I put about one and a half to two inches of ASPEN wood shavings, which are also sold at many pet stores. Again, ASPEN. This is best. Pine, I don't know, but DO NOT GET CEDAR. This can cause disease, fungus, and all sorts of nasty things. To clean the cage, I take the gerbils out and put them in a exercise ball and just let them roam my room. I then dunp the old shavings and paper towels into a trash can (with a bag), use Clorox Wipes to clean out the cage (there will occasionally be some stuff stuck to the bottom glass, this is normal.) I then put paper towels in, then shavings, clean out their bottle with hot water and fill it up with cold water, and you're done. A lid for the cage is necessary. This can be a normal top for a ten gallon aquarium (which is what the terrarium is; as a structure, they're identical), or an expansion-type thing that sits on top and has its own door-thing. Also, gerbils need an exercise wheel and other opportunities for exercise. For example, small rodent/lizard pens are available. I put down two layers of newspaper in the area of the pen, put in some toys, and pretty much let them go crazy. You should get an exercise wheel with no openings in it. You will see why when you read more. It is best to get a wire-bar cage attachment and a wheel with a connector thing for the bars. For example, mine has a turnable knob that I slide throught he bars and then twist to keep it up. When you first get your gerbil(s), try not to touch them and DO NOT pick them up for the first three or four days. Allow them to get used to their new home, and your voice and the sounds of your home. Then, start with touching and light petting in-cage. When they seem comfortable with that, then you can pick them up one at a time (recommended until you are experienced; I've had mine for two years now and I love to have them both running around on my arms and shoulders.) Beware of biting at an early stage of ownership. After about a month, biting is less common. I am never bitten now. Gerbils live for two to four years. If one of your gerbils escapes, the first thing you need to do is shut of the room the cage is in from the rest of house. If the escape was less than, I'd say, fifteen to twenty minutes of your discovery of the escape, chances are your furry friend is still in the room. Watch your step carefully, and look anywhere, ANYWHERE it could be. Mine have been under my bed, dresser, nightstand, even in a little space behind my computer desk. (That was the worst!) If you start to notice your gerbil's behavior change, it may be sick, You should contact the pet store you got the gerbil from for advice (or other pet stores); there are not many veterinarians who specialize in rodents. A particularly common disease in gerbils is called 'wet-tail'. It is characterized by irritableness, lethargy, loss of appetite, and frequent urination and defecation. It is highly contagious, and if you own more than one gerbil, separate the sick gerbil from the others. Danger rates vary, but some cases are fatal. Luckily, neither of my gerbils have contracted this disease. If you want to own more than one gerbil, you should introduce them to each other at a young age. This works best if they are from the same litter. Gerbils are naturally nocturnal, bur may eventually adapt to their owner's schedule. Mine used to keep me awake nights on end with their scurrying and chewing and such, but they have settled down (thank God). Your gerbils should be kept somewhere with light, such as a well-lit bedroom. My room is well-lit, and the cage is right by a window. The gerbils seem to enjoy this. If you notice a crook in your gerbil's tail, it is most likely broken. Though it may heal incorrectly, it does not cause any major problems. One of my gerbil's tail was broken in two places due to an accident involving an old free-standing exercise wheel. He gets around just fine, and doesnt seem to even notice his slightly bent tail anymore.

I hope you enjoy your new members of the family!

I do not think that you can walk a gerbil. you would need a whole body harness small enough for a gerbil, and even then they will chew through it or slip out of it. Gerbil are masters of escape. not to mention that if you were to walk a gerbil, they would get all dirty and get fleas, and if you saw them walk out of your sight into a bush while on the walk, they may get squished by something.

Honestly, what I am trying to say in a whole round-about way, It is not a good idea to walk gerbils.

I really cannot think of any Pros to walking a gerbil, only cons. now, if you have a whole play pin set up for them in a room where no other animals are, and make sure that they cannot get out of it, then you can put them in that and let them run around your room.