Normally 11/2" vent and a 3" soil line=BUT some codes want a 4" waste and then a 2" vent may be required depends on the local inspector=
1. Loosen the 2 nuts that are located on each side of the toilet. Place them in a safe location, because you will need them to remount the toilet.2. Lift the toilet. Set it in a place where the rest of the water can drain from it, such as a shower or bathtub.3. Clean the wax from the flange seal, and then remove the screws that attach it to the floor.4. Measure the pipe that comes out of the floor so that you purchase the correct size. You will need to buy a new flange, a new section of pipe with the same diameter as the old pipe, a pipe coupling, a new wax ring and PVC glue if you do not have any.5. Cut off the flange at the red line. This can be done, from inside the pipe, using a Dremel tool with a reinforced disk for cutting.
Inside pipe cutter
2" VENT. Many codes say the vent can be 1/2 the size of the pipe being served but in no case less then 11/2" and considering a lead bend (toilet drain) can be 3" and the new fixtures have 1.6 GPF in lieu of the 3.5 GPF a 11/2 vent pipe is fine
Yes if the vent pipe is 4" and vertical by code and there is nothing connected between your toilet tee and where you would connect your new toilet tee. If not worried about codes then yes you can connect to a 3" vent line if no other vent lines are connected down stream. If you have a vent pipe that is less then 3" and or you have other vents connected between your old toilet tee and your new toilet tee then NO you can not connect a new tee for your toilet.
Kits are available to make sure the toilet flange is level with the new floor. These kits are adjustable because of the differences in thickness of flooring and material, any subflooring laid down, grout, infloor heating etc. . Ideally, you want to seat the toilet on the wax gasket, and attach the mounting bolts, and have the toilet flat on the finished floor. These kits are easy to find and use.
Probably it is due to the size of the toilet tank. If the toilet is a low flow, or under 2 gallons per flush, the tank will be considerably smaller than an older toilet tank, which might hold as much as 25 gallons. The only critical thing in istalling a toilet is if the drain pipe lines up with the drain opening. Unless you move the toilet drain, the new toilet is going to sit in the same place. If you have a gap between the wall and the tank, you might want to put a block of wood or something to help anchor the tank. Newer tanks are smaller due to the reduced water need with the current flushing technology.
Uh huh
Yes. If not it will be a wet vent and cause MAJOR problems.
Installing a new toilet flange is a fairly simple process that should take no more than 15 to 20 minutes. A properly installed toilet flange will ensure years of dependable use. If the old flange needs to be removed, this will increase the installation time. These instructions assume you are starting with a waste pipe that does not have a toilet flanged installed. If the old toilet flange is still installed on the waste pipe, begin by removing it, then following these procedures.The following items are needed to complete this procedure:New toilet flangeAdjustable wrenchScrewdriver (Phillips or straight head)Hacksaw (if modification to waste pipe is needed)Purple primer and solvent cement (if PVC flange is installed)New wax seal or waxless toilet sealPlace the new flange on the waste pipe and ensure the pipe height is proper for the flange to be affixed to the subfloor. If modifications need to be made to the waste pipe, use a hacksaw to cut the pipe to the proper height.Ensure the new flange is sitting level to the floor. The flange must sit level and flush to the floor for the toilet to properly seal to the new flange.Install the new flange on the waste pipe with the bolts positioned so they will fit into the toilet mounts. If a PVC flange is used, apply purple primer to the outside of the waste pipe and solvent cement to the inside of the flange, then press the flange firmly on the waste pipe. Be aware, once these item are attach using primer and solvent, they cannot be removed or adjusted. Be sure the flange is positioned and inserted properly on the waste pipe.Secure the new flange to the subfloor by screwing the flange directly into the floor.Apply the new wax seal to the flange or affix a new waxless toilet seal directly to the underside of the toilet.A waxless seal is commonly overlooked by consumers. Ask your retailer about a waxless seal. Waxless seals are cleaner to install and uninstall and can be reused even if the toilet is removed later.Mount the toilet back onto the new flange and secure it using a washer and nut on the flange bolts. Tighten each bolt with an adjustable wrench. Be very careful not to over tighten the bolts. If the bolts are over tightened, the porcelain toilet will crack.Your new toilet flange is installed and ready to use.
Considering the waste inlet of the pipe of this pipe should be 4" possibly 3" you can buy an inside cast iron cutter .=You must measure the inside diameter and then buy /rent the one for the size you need THEN you can buy a new cast iron floor flange and use either a caulked joint (lead and oakum) or possibly a quick set type if the cast iron is no hub or standard weight=
If you have pipe already in the floor sticking up, you get a toilet ring and screw it down to the concrete with anchors. The blue Tapcon work well for this if you have them where you are at. The ring can be PVC, brass or steel, it doesn't really matter. Install the ring and cut the pipe flush with the surface of the ring. If the drain is PVC, you can chisel out some around the pipe and glue the flange on to the pipe, but you still need to anchor it down. If you are pouring a new floor or running a new drain, use PVC and leave a foot or so above grade when you pour the cement. Then follow the steps above. The flange does not have to be attached to the pipe, the wax ring will seal the toilet to the pipe.
where one toilet is draining to its own unshared line, the line can be 3" but once both toilets are draining to the same line, it needs to be 4". in other words, from the first toilet to the second toilet can be 3" but past the second toilet needs to be 4". there needs to be a vent downstream of the second toilet in the direction of flow if there is another fixture of any kind downstream of the two toilets.