Haynes repair manuals typically have wiring diagrams in them. If you plan to work on your S-10 yourself, it's well worth the $20 investment.
the key less entry is controlled by the body control module.There isn't a specific fuse for that operation. There are fuses for the lock actuator. Not knowing your specific problem its had to understand what you want.
There is one issue for this fault. The manifold runner control actuator needs replaced and this will solve the problem.
No, because "told" ends with a "d" and "control" doesn't." Also the "r" in "control" presents a problem. "Trolled" and "controlled" rhyme.
The actuator is located on top of the heater box and can be accessed by fully opening the glove box and looking in the upper left hand corner. Generally, the actuator motor is not the problem, but a broken blend door. For information on how to diagnose and fix the problem, you can check at www.heatertreater.net. This is a very common problem and the fix is very expensive at the dealer. HeaterTreater is a cheap, easy alternative. cgallen
Without testing a guess would be a blend door or actuator or maybe a control problem
"Ignition actuator" is not a standard term... But to try and help, there are a couple of possibilities:Ignition key cylinder - very common problem with the early 90's Taurus/Sables.Ignition control module - requires specialized tool to remove from the side of the distributor.Both of these are covered in the "Related Questions" below...
It's actually rare for the actuator motor to fail. The problem is usually a broken blend door and the computer shutting down the system because it detected a fault. You can find diagnostic information at heatertreater.net
This code is for the exhaust cam actuator timing system. There are a few things that can cause this. Anything from the actuator solenoid, to the actuator, to an internal engine problem. - Tech JK ------------------------------
I just had this problem on my 2004 Colorado. The Idle Actuator control motor on the throttle body was bad. Cost $160 for the part.
Sounds like you have a problem with the air door actuator that switches it from hot to cold. That car shouldn't have a heater control valve, instead it uses an actuator that moves a door which directs the air flow to either flow through the heater core or bypass it. If coolant is circulating through the heater core, and nothing is stopping the fins on the core up, then you have a problem with either the actuator or the door itself. When you switch it from hot to cold do you hear something moving on the passenger side of the dash? If not, it is probably the actuator, or it could even be the control panel.
Had the same problem. In my case it was the actuator motor inside of the panel in the passenger footwell. Check to see if the flap is binding or it is the actuator motor itself.
There is either a problem with the actuator in the front differential--BAD ACTUATOR. Are there is a problem with the differential ---RING and PINION asembley.
I do not think that there is a front axle disconnect. If there is then it is vacuum controlled and the problem is either a switch or a broken line.I do not think that there is a front axle disconnect. If there is then it is vacuum controlled and the problem is either a switch or a broken line.
This code is for the exhaust cam actuator timing system. There are a few things that can cause this. Anything from the actuator solenoid, to the actuator, to an internal engine problem. - Tech JK ---------------------------
The problem is probably in the mixing door not operating properly. It could be in the control panel or the door itself. It just has to be checked out. GoodluckJoe----------------------------------------------------------------------; Blend Door Actuator
If the problem is lack of heat, the most common failure on this model is the blend door. Check the HeaterTreater web site for diagnostic information. If the problem is lack of control over the switch between defrost/vent/floor vents, this is a vacuum controlled mode door and the problem is usually a vacuum leak somewhere in the system.
the heater control has a thermostat for the heater only. that thermostat needs replacing
Yep! A constant problem. More than likely the Actuator Assembly or wheel speed sensor. Could be nasty or rusty hub sensor plates that are used for ABS also.
The heater control works along with electrical controls to properly operate the heat. If the unit is electronically controlled, then computer codes can be checked to see if there may be a problem.
To answer specifically what is wrong with your vehicle will be impossible without more information. The check engine light comes on when the PCM(computer) sees a problem somewhere in the engine or transmission control system. A sensor may have failed, a solenoid or actuator may have failed, a wiring problem may have developed, or there could even be a problem with the PCM itself. You will have to have a diagnostic run on the vehicle.
Either the arm on the actuator broke off (common problem) or the actuator itself burned out (which happens over time).
If the cruise control system fails to power on, i.e. the light on the cruise control switch does not light, check the fuse. If the fuse is not blown, there may be a problem with the wiring or the cruise control module itself. If the system powers on but it fails to keep the vehicle at speed when engaged, the vacuum hose between the cruise control module and the actuator may be faulty. The cruise control module can be found at the rear of the engine compartment near the driver's side door. A black vacuum hose runs from the module to the actuator, which is a round black plastic object which is connected with a cable to the throttle. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator and inspect the end. If it is cracked, you may be able to cut 1/4" from the end of the hose and reconnect it.
Start with removing the actuator motor. (See "Related Questions" below)With the actuator out, operate the temperature adjusting control and watch the motor to see if it is moving.NOTE: Movement alone does not guarantee that the gear teeth inside are not broken.Next, using a small screw-driver, or similar, try and operate the blend door itself. It should move freely and easily. Any binding is a bad bad problem.Hopefully your problem will be the actuator and not the door!See "Related Questions" below for more
Well it will depend on what the year, make and model of vehicle you are working on but on many vehicles the door is controlled by what is called an actuator which will need to be replaced once its determined that this is the problem......
You can solve hunting, or oscillatory instability, in a closed loop control system by adding feedback damping, in the form of high pass negative feedback of actuator input to sense input. This slows the actuator, and gives the controlled system more time to respond. You can overdo it, however, and make the controlling system sluggish. Its a matter of finding the sweet spot, technically the critical damping point, where you have the best compromise between underdamping and overdamping.This answer is not specific to turbine main steam control valves. It addresses the more general case of closed loop servo systems. If someone has a more specific answer to the question, please feel free to refine the answer