2004 ford f-150 spark plug removal?

Answer 1

Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out. Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out. Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out. Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out. Ford has a bulletin on this that you should be able to find on the internet. The spark plug is made in two pieces with an electrode and shield extending an extra inch and a quarter into the head below the threads. If the part extending into the head seizes enough to cause the threaded part to separate the problem is potentially thousands of dollars to repair, but if handled correctly that expense can be avoided. # The engine should be warm, like a warm bath, not hot or stone cold. # It is essential to clean all the dirt off the head before you start with an air hose. It is also essential to clean it after you remove the coils. Dirt will fall in the hole and make it impossible to get a socket on the plug and it will fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed. # Crack the plug loose but do not turn it more than ¼ turn. # Fill the plug hole to the level of the nut with penetrating oil. # Let it stand for at least 10 minutes. # Remove the plug with slow even tension. It will creak. Ford says if it takes more than 33 ft/lbs to turn it to work it back in half a turn, repeat as needed, and to apply a small amount of additional penetrating oil. Do not use too much oil or repeat it may times because it can fill the cylinder and cause a major failure when you try to start it. # Use a small amount of high temperature anti-seize grease on the threads and electrode shield. Do not get any on the electrodes. # Run the plug in by hand with a socket extension until it is ready to tighten. Be careful not to cross thread it and do not over tighten it or you will damage the aluminum head. I highly recommend using the Champion 7989 replacement plug because the electrode shield is made into the same piece as the threads and nut and it will not break when you try to take it out.