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One suggestion would be, don't replace parts until you know what's wrong. Use a code scanner to see what the computer has stored. It probably knows what's wrong and is willing to tell you. If you have compression and the engine wasn't physicall damaged, it could be fuel or ignition. You'll have to use some diagnostic skills to figure out which.

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Q: Car died wont start driving home from work in cruise control about 65mph when the engine lost power and died have a 1991 ford probe gt with turbo 2 2l you replaced the ignitor any suggestions?
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Why does the tachometer jump around and the engine cut out on a 1995 Honda Accord V6 in all weather even after replacing the ignitor module?

It could be a bad cap, rotor, pickup coil/reluctor, or a loose ground.


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It could be the timing belt jumps (wrong timing spark) or the faulty pressure regulator (to much fuel ro to little)


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Your 1994 Suzuki Sidekick wont start ive checked for spark at the plugs checked your fuel delivery and your compression and every checked out fine what could the problem be?

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A bad ignition module is usually characterized by several frustrating symptoms. A classic example is when the engine will start, but when it gets hot, the ignition module's electrical properties change, cuasing the car to die suddenly, but restart after several minutes of cooling. Some people have reported pouring cold water on the ignition module causes it to start when hot (mearly by cooling rapidly). Another way to test for this is to allow the engine to run for a total of 30 minutes, then gently tap the module with the back of a screwdriver. If the car fails, this is usually the source. Sometimes the car will not start at all, but this should lead to checking the ignition coil first. This is usually characterized by no spark, no combustion, but good power (or weak power) into the ignition coil. This is usually checked first, as both are common problems, but the ignition coil is usually 1/3 the price (or less) of the (often very pricey) modules (especially for later models). Basically, check for spark, if you dont have any, keep going back until you have checked the ignition coil, distibutor, ignitor, module (in that order) and any grounds, resistors, capacitors, etc. Check all for power in, out, positive, negative, and power out. Use a test light, a voltmeter (multimeter) and get a book for your car from the auto parts store. Or take it to AutoZone- they can test modules using a computer for FREE.

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Having same issue on my 93 Camry - got diagnostic, replaced distributor had same problem, another diagnostic, replaced ignitor, having same problem, dies while driving. Any new ideas? We are having the same issue too with our 1994 Camry, 6 clyinder. A mechanic has changed the fuel pump, mass air sensor. Then he thought maybe the ignitor. So I bought one on EBAy (i know risky) since we are getting in deep on this issue. Anyway the ignitor did not fix it either. From what I see here on the internet I'm going to check out the fuel pressure regulator. They say to check the vacuum hose that comes off the top of the regulator. If the hose has gas in it then the regulator is bad. That is the next thing I'm going to check. I will let you know what I find and please let me know if you get any results.


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What is the code for ignitor?

B2vqb-jhbzn


What is ignitor's code?

B2vqb-jhbzn