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NATURALLY THE FIRST THING YOU WILL DO IS TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CABLE. REMOVE THE SCREWS & CAREFULLY REMOVE THE FACIA RING OF THE STEREO CONSOLE, (WITH JUST THE TIPPS OF YOUR FINGERS), RELEASING THE TWO CLIPS AT EITHER SIDE. "DONT JERK - IT OUT!!! " RELEASE THE WIRES TO CIG LIGHTER & RELATED POWER SOURCES, STEREO. APPLY THE SAME TECHNIQUE TO THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO RETAIN ALL SCREWS AN PROPER LOCATIONS. REMOVE THE DEFROSTER COVER, & THE DASH AS A WHOLE PIECE. HEATER CORE WILL COME OUT OF THE TOP OF SHROUD. REPLACE VENT DOOR AND ACTUATOR. USE A LITTLE. (NOT TOO MUCH.) HI TEMP SILICONE SO WHEN IT WONT BRAKE AGAIN IN THE FUTURE. THE FAMOUSE BAD DESIGN OF FORDS HEATER DOOR. THE DOOR GETS STUCK OR MOVES SLOOW!, EXTREM HEAT OR NONE. MYSELF I REPLACED THE RED/BLUE SWITCH THEN THE HEATER VALVE, THEN THE VACCUME SWITCH, FOUND A PART # AT NAPA FOR A REPAIR KIT ( SANTA ROSA CA. ASK FOR FRANK.) HAVE TO TAKE OUT DASH TO REPLACE HEATER DOOR, WILL INSTALL NEW ACTUATOR. BY THE TIME IM DONE IVE SPENT ONLY 100.00 ON PARTS FROM ONLINE Ford. 3 HOURS IN MY GARAGE. AND ALL OF THE COMPONETS ARE BRAND NEW. WONT EVER HAVE TO DEAL WITH IT AGAIN. GUESS ILL KEEP THE TRUCK GOOD LUCK

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โˆ™ 2007-12-16 06:33:16
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Q: How do you change a heater core in a 1997 Ford Ranger?
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