I just did it.. Take 2 hammers place one on a stud side ways and beat down on it till it comes out. Keep doing this till all studs have come out and then replace them by putting rotor in vice and with 2 washers and lug nut use a break over bar and tighten stud tight until it is all the way in place.. Hope this helps..
Break wheel nuts(tool: Wheel tool), jack up vehicle, Remove wheel, remove brake pads( tool: by hand or flat bit screw driver), then remove brake caliper( Tool: either 12,14,or 17 spanner or ratchet), after that you can remove the rotor by hand.
On a 4-wheel drive it is free floating and on a 2-wheel drive you have to remove the axle nut and bearings. From what I have heard in the ford forums is the 4-wheel drive free floating can be hard to remove if they get rusted in place so be sure to have a rubber mallot on hand. I just replaced my front rotors on my 2-wheel drive and it was real easy to get off.
-Raise the front of the vehicle and support with jack stands -Remove the wheel on the side on which the bearing is to be replaced -Remove cotter pin from axle nut -Insert screwdriver into the vanes of the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from rotating -Remove axle nut -Remove the brake caliper assembly and support with wire. do not let the caliper dangle on the brake line -Remove the brake rotor -Remove the hub/bearing assembly bolts -Separate axle from the hub -Remove hub/bearing assembly -Transfer parts if necessary (backing plate, wheel speed sensor) Installation is the reverse of removal. This is the same for pretty much every front/4 wheel drive gm vehicle. i dont know the torque specs off hand, just dont snap the bolts off. wheel fastener (lug nut) torque spec is 100 lb/ft. I suggest you investigate into the torque spec for the axle nut.
The rotor is threaded right hand, turning clockwise will drive the bolt inward, this will push the rotor off the truck. On_mitch
Remove all spark plugs. Turn the engine by hand until the #1 plug (front of engine driver's side) is at top dead center on the compression stroke. The rotor will now be pointing to the #1 plug location on the cap.Remove all spark plugs. Turn the engine by hand until the #1 plug (front of engine driver's side) is at top dead center on the compression stroke. The rotor will now be pointing to the #1 plug location on the cap.
To replace the front turn signal bulb in a 2005 Montana, you have to access it from the engine compartment. Undo the front headlight assembly as per the instructions noted elsewhere. There is one screw (machine Head) on the outboard side of the headlight assembly, and one 'thumb screw' on the inner side to the assembly. I found it difficult to remove the headlight assembly, and I have found you don't have to. (You can break the housing, so don't try taking it right out) Just loosen it enough to get your hand behind the assembly. I would also suggest you remove the plastic fasteners from the top of the front bezel in order to make loosening the headlight assembly easier, and to prevent the possibility of damaging or breaking the front bezel. The plastic fasteners are easily removed with just a pair of pliers. Once the headlight assembly has been moved forward slightly, you can get your hand down the opening, and feel for the turn signal lamp assembly. Twist to remove. There is enough wire in the harness to bring the lamp assembly to 'the surface' where you can replace the bulb easily. Replace bulb and test. After testing, replace headlight, and then plastic fasteners at the top of the front bezel.
Open the hatchback. Behind each tail light assembly is a round cover. Remove it and you'll find two big plastic hand-turnable nuts. Remove those and you can pry the assembly out of the car.
the hub must be removed to take off the rotor.special tools are required to remove the rotor.
The Camshaft Position Sensor is located under the Rotor within the Distributor. Remove the Distributor Cap (two screws - one in front the other in back), located at the rear of the engine, then remove the Rotor (two screws). The Camshaft Position Sensor is located under the Rotor mounting housing. The engine will need to be turned (hand cranked using a wrench - large nut behind the cooling fan) to position the Rotor mounting housing in the proper location to remove the sensor.
Remove wheel. Remove grease cup. Remove caliper & secure it so it does not interfere with spindle. Remove brake disc. Remove hub nut. Remove hub & bearing assembly. Use a two jaw pulley to remove hub if you can't do it by hand. Reverse procedure to install.
Worn wheel bearing or hub assembly. Jack the car up so that the wheel is off the ground. Put one hand on top of the tire and one hand on the bottom. Try to rock the wheel by pulling/pushing. If the wheel moves in and out or rocks the bearings are bad. Since the rotor sits on the hub assembly which isn't supposed to rock back and forth it is able to clear the caliper bracket. On a worn hub the rotor is able to move slightly causing the rotor to rub against the caliper bracket.
Rear Rotor Removal. remove wheel. Remove the 14mm bolt holding the e brake "L" shaped hanger before the caliper, pry ebrake arm forward and remove cable end from ebrake arm locate the 12mm bolt on the right hand side of the caliper, remove bolt swing caliper upwards to ensure looseness. locate 2 17mm bolts holding brake caliper bracket to hub assembly, remove bolts. locate 10mm bolt holding brake line to strut, remove. lift brake caliper off wheel assembly careful to not hang weight by brake line. pull rotor off of the wheel studs. to re assemble repeat steps in reverse. email@example.com
For the rear... Remove the plastic nuts that hold the carpet on(behind the tail lights) and then you can easily remove the bulbs For the Front... You have to remove 2 bolts (that have plastic heads that your can turn with your hand) and remove the entire headlight assembly on that side
Remove the screws on the rite hand side
When you remove the caliper, the pads can be pressed out by hand.
Make sure truck is level or pointing downhill is even better. Remove the 4 bolts at the differential. Pry the driveshaft forward. Slide the front out of the transmission. Hold the front most piece with your hand as it comes out of the transmission. At re-assembly torque the bolts to 15 ft/lbs.
The front wheel bearings are replaced by first loosing the center nut on the half-shaft. This nut is a 34mm and is easiest to loosen while the wheel is on the ground. This shaft doesn�t hold the vehicle load. After the nut is loose jack vehicle and remove the wheel. After the wheel is off remove the rotor. The front rotors on a Venture van are removed by removing the brake caliper (two bolts on backside), don�t forget to support caliper. Don�t let caliper hang by the brake hose. I use a piece of clothes hanger. After the caliper is remove take the caliper bracket off by removing the two bolts for it on the backside. After the bracket is removed the rotor will come off. If the rotor has never been removed there may be one or two spring clips on the lugs. Remove them with a pair of diagonal cutters and discard. After the rotor is off you will have to remove the hub assembly. The center nut can be removed that was loosened earlier. Disconnect the Anti-Skid wiring on the backside. Then remove the three 13mm bolts from the backside of the hub. These are tight and can be hard to remove. The top one requires the use of at least a 4� extension to get to. When the three bolts are removed you can remove the hub being careful with the Anti-Skid wiring. Installation is a reverse of the removal. The center nut can be torqued after the vehicle is placed on the ground. The spring clips on the rotor do not need to be replaced. A lug nut can be use until the assembly is complete to hold the rotor in place. Remove lug nut and reinstall wheel. Don�t forget to torque all bolts properly and reconnect the Anti-Skid wiring. The above directions are excellent and I used them yesterday to replace the hub assembly. The only thing I would add is that the assy. may need a little "persuassion" with a large screwdriver and hammer to come off. Mine was rusted on very tight - also, ensure that the splined shaft is moved out the way to thread the electrial wire through the hole.
To remove the rotor, you need to remove the brake pads. There should be one bolt at the bottom of the caliper unit. After you remove this bolt, you can swing that part of the caliper up and remove the pads. Next remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper unit to the hub. Have a string handy to tie up the calipers after you take the bolts off. You don't want to put stress on the brake fluid hose or you could end up with a bigger mess on your hands. On the front of the rotor you'll notice 2 Philips screws. These have to be removed before you slide out the rotor. This is the toughest part of the job if these are rusted and won't come out easily. You might want to have a couple of new ones on hand if you damage the old ones. You'll have to be creative to remove them. After these screws are removed, you can slide out the rotor. Installation is the reverse of removal.
throw a hand grenade at it
take off lug nuts and wheel. Remove caliper bolts,then remove caliper from rotor. take a rubber mallet or small sledge hammer and beat on backside of rotor.you will have to give a few good shots to break rust free and it will come off.when installing new rotor;line up holes with studs and slide on.take 3 lug nuts and hand-tighten as far as you can.This will push rotor into correct position.re-install caliper on rotor, remove 3 lug nuts,then re-install wheel & lugs. (if installing new pads you will have to compress caliper cylinders to fit onto rotor, use a c-clamp & old brake pad)
If you mean replace it is fairly simple if you are mechanically inclined and have basic hand tools. It is usually front wheels that turn that will go out, once you isolate side. You will have to remove caliper (2 bolt) and rotor, bearings (2)inside. There is an inner and outer, both tapered both different sizes. Closely examine both -the bad one will have rollers that squeek or look burned or won't move freely. If you remove seal on back of rotor carefully, it can be reused. To remove rotor just remove dust cap with channel locks, pull cotter pin on nut with needle nose, remove nut, and pull rotor. Get some whel bearing grease wherever you buy new bearings and pack them by hand before putting in rotor. Procedure can be found online. Also examine bearing races-round circle in rotor bearings ride on. These can be reused if ok if one is gouged can be pressed in for you by a shop and come with bearings. Almost never necessary. Reverse to put back together, just keep in mind torque on spindle nut is always low (hence the cotter)-use the right value for your car
Remove the tires. Remove the two 17mm bolts holding the brake calipers over the rotor. Remove the two screws holding the rotors onto the spindle. you may need to use a hammer with that screwdriver because some tend to be too tight to break by hand. just reverse process to put on new one
Remove the wheel and the brake caliper. Remove the two 18mm bolts that hold the brake caliper bracket, and remove it and the rotor. Remove the small bolt that holds the antilock brake sensor and remove the sensor. Remove the 32mm axle nut. The nut may be hard to remove but it is right hand thread. You can remove the two 18mm bolts from the bottom of the strut and swing the whole wheel bearing assembly out just barely far enough to remove the axle without removing the lower ball joint. The axle is splined in the wheel bearing assembly and you can knock it out with a block of hard wood and a hammer. Reach back along the axle with a long extension and remove the two nuts holding the axle carrier bearing. Be careful not to let the axle fall down and damage the axle seal in the transmission. The axle should slide easily out of the transmission and only a tiny bit of fluid will leak out. Hope this helps. Good luck.
if you have tried penerating oil and not loosened if you apply heat with a hand held torch it will contract the metal that will allow to break free.
ON MY 92 TRACKER, THERE ARE TWO HOLES IN THE ROTOR THAT YOU PUT 8mm BOLTS INTO. THEN YOU ALTERNATELY TIGHTEN DOWN THE BOLTS AND THE ROTOR IS SLOWLY DRAWN OFF OF THE HUB. BASICALLY THE BOLTS PUSH AGAINST THE HUB AND THE ROTOR IS DRAWN UP THE THREADS OF THE BOLTS AWAY FROM THE HUB. USE A PRY BAR ACROSS/BETWEEN THE LUG STUDS AND HOLD WITH ONE HAND WHILE YOU TURN THE RATCHET ON THE BOLT WITH THE OTHER, SO THE HUB DOES NOT SPIN WHILE YOU ARE TRYING TO TIGHTEN THE BOLTS.