I had this problem on my 2000. I lubed all the fittings, especially upper and lower ball joints and the noise went away. Chevy wants you to lube every oil change. If you still hear the noise you'll have to replace. Check the Anti-Sway Bar bushings and where they attach to the A-Arm.
could be u-joints or a sloppy ring and pinion gear mating. The slack has got to be taken up somewhere. Without knowing the mils i would get under truck and wiggle up and down and side ways and twist by hand all the u-joints and look for wear even rust, that would be the cheapest fix
Sounds like the caliber is sticking. I recommend you replace the front calibers and replace the brake fluid with fresh fluid from an unopened can. The shaking probably means the rotors are warped. Replace the rotors and brake pads along with the calipers on your front brakes you should be fine. I would suspect that your brake fluid has become contaminated with moisture. This moisture will cause the calibers to rust and stick. Make sure you tighten the lug nuts to the torc specifications recommended for your vehicle. Over tightening the Lugnuts will warp the rotors.ANS 2 - If I had that happening 2 days after a change, I'd be looking very seriously about something being done wrongly. Possibly the pads are not fitted properly or are the wrong pattern.
I have Rheumatoidarthritis and what you describe here sounds like the inflammation I get in my fingers from time to time. I would suggest that you see your doctor and get checked out. Inflamation of the joints needs to be treated with an anti inflammatory to stop or at least reduce damage done to them. Left untreated serious damage can be done to joints. Ask to get checked out for RA.
Sounds 2 me like the Selector Shaft linkage for the Transmission needs 2 b ADJUSTED.
It sounds like you have an inflammatory type of arthritis. The cause for these is not known aside from the fact that they are an autoimmune disease that attacks joints and some other organs and tissue. these illnesses are usually treated with anti inflammatory of various types or with disease modifying drugs that alter the behavior of the immune system you can however have RA without RF this is known as electronegative RA.
I think your shocks are sticking or getting stuck as they move up and down. You probably need to replace them. It could also be that one of the components of the suspention is loose or worn out so check all of the bushings and ball joints.
sounds like you need to replace the U-Joints in the drive shaft
Yes, dry ball joints can squeak a lot. When the lubrication on the ball joints wears off or becomes insufficient, the metal-on-metal contact can cause squeaking sounds. It is important to address this issue promptly as it can affect the handling and safety of the vehicle.
That sounds about right on this vehicle. It is a very difficult job.
CV Joints
Snap, Crackle and Pop.
Sounds like a bad CV joint. On most cars, it is often more economical to replace the complete axle shaft on that side that has a bad cv joint. Hope this helps. Good-luck!
My owner's manual advises not to attempt to replace licence plate bulb, should take it to dealer to avoid damaging the vehicle, sounds weird but there it is for what its worth. Cheers Ron calgary...
Sounds like your fuel pump. Im 99% sure that's what it is. Mine went out and since I'd never had to replace it, it took an hour at least to replace.
Grease them, or replace them. Most new cars came with lifetime lubricated the ball joints. When you start hearing clanking sounds while driving the lubricant has dried out. Intense heat and cold will dry out life time lubricants. This is time to puncture the rubber covering the ball joint and inject grease the groaning sounds will be gone. Then apply silicone or permatax to the joint spaces where you punctured.
Probably a bad driveshaft. Have it inspected at by a mechanic. Sounds like you need to check your CV joints. To my knowledge a front wheel drive vehicle does not have a driveshaft.
Sounds like cv joints