SorryNEW ANSWER #2Cutting to the chase; unless you can align it yourself too; your better off paying someone to replace all those parts. It is a long, dirty; on your back job. Watch out for the parts stores; THE LEFT AND RIGHT; INNER AND OUTER TIE ROD ENDS ARE DIFFERENT!!. Tell them (Advance and Oreillys) their catalog/computer is wrong; if they argue. I learned the hard way. If you have a good mechanic friend; pay them $100; buy all your parts at NAPA and rest easy. And by all means, replace everytghing you can afford to. Don't just do one or 2 components. If the boots are shot on your cv-axles; THEY CAN BE REPLACED!! You probably don't need axles; unless they are bone dry or damaged. About 10$ a boot. Go to Ebay and get a repair CD and it will tell you how to dis-assemble the axle(s). It's not hard, but very greasy. I just did this last month...... The Real Dirt On Replacing Tie Rods And An Idler Arm, For 1987-1995 Nissan PathfindersThere are two options for replacing an idler arm, stock Nissan style or MOOG style. The MOOG unit (produced, quite predictably, by the MOOG company, or Federal-Mogul) will not last and is NOT recommended, even for strictly on-road driving. If your stock idler arm is bent or twisted, you will probably need to replace the whole assembly, not to mention that it probably means your centerlink is ruined already and should also be inspected for play. Just a tip. If there is simply slop in the idler arm at the pivot pin, you can easily replace the bushings that the arm rotates on. They're plastic and cost about $14 a pair at a dealership. Remove the centerlink joint from the idler arm with a balljoint or tie rod puller, then remove the nut on the bottom end of the pivot pin. The idler arm will slide off.
For replacing all four tie rods you need two outers and two inners. They're entirely reversible if you get one out of order. I've swapped them around outer-inner wise and they still work perfectly fine. You just can't get four inners or four outers to work together because the threading on the inner and outer are reversed so that after they screw into the center adjusters, they can be adjusted in and out for alignment purposes. The center adjusters can be re-used unless you need new ones due to them being stripped or damaged.
To change tie rods (both at once), remove the cotter pins from the tie rod end studs, remove the castle nut, then use a balljoint or tie rod puller to separate the joints from the centerlink on the inside and the steering knuckles on the outside. Try to avoid using a pickle fork, they can damage both your hand and the rubber boots on the (hopefully) still good parts you don't need to change. When removing the tie rods, you need to pay close attention to the length of threaded rod remaining outside the adjuster nuts in the center before you loosen the adjuster nuts. Try to keep the length the same as it used to be, or as close as you can get it. Measuring the amount of exposed threads on the old tie rods will give you an idea of exactly how far to thread together the new tie rods. Keep them even when you thread them into the adjuster so the inner isn't all the way in while the outer is all the way out, or vice-versa. That way they have a full range of adjustment travel in the adjuster for alignment.
Installation is the reverse of removal, only you don't need a puller, just tighten down the castle nuts to the proper specs before installing new cotter pins. Remember to grease your new tie rods, most new ones come with grease zerks even if the old ones didn't. By the way, you DO have a Chilton's book for the vehicle, don't you? If not, they're only $15 and one is definitely worth having. To be honest, if you're a screwdriver mechanic I would find someone you trust to help you on this project, it's not something to want to half-ass and then find out about later. -88pathoffroad
3 bolts above your oil filter may have to move belt a
To replace the belt on a Nissan Frontier, first loosen the idler pulley of the belt and remove the bolts. Then slip the replacement belt onto the pulley and put back the bolts.
Remove the old, damaged idler pulley and replace it with a new one.
When It no longer hold proper tension if the belt is squeaking then it is probably time to change it
is it a pintara
Remove the belt, then remove the bolt holding in the idler pulley.
Replace the tensioner assembly as one piece.
The Chevrolet S 10 pickup truck idler arm can be removed by removing the idler arm retaining bolts. The idler arm has two retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new idler arm.
Belt is worn out, or the idler pulley is defective. Replace the belt and inspect the idler puley.
Not sure if the 92 is the same as the 91, but on the 91 you need to loosen the adjusting idler on the alternator on top and the a/c idler from the bottom. remove the a/c belt & install the alt. belt, make sure your route is correct between the two guide as the belt goes up to the idler... hope that helps.
If the idler pulley is frozen, it is high time to replace the timing belt and the idler. And while that job is being done, consider replacing the water pump and thermostat.
The idler pulley on a 2003 Nissan Sentra 1.8 is changed by removing the engine accessories, removing the drive belts, and loosening the retaining bolt. The pulley can then be removed from the vehicle and a new one bolted into place.
only if the idler arm will not hold the tension on the belt and the pulley needs replaced when the are warn sharp or warn flat
I suppose you could, but these idler pulley's are not that expensive to replace the whole thing. They do fail (a weakpoint for these motors), but usually give some audible warning, also check for loosness. Do your best to purchase the steel idler pulley and the bearing will come with. When these items do "let go" they can leave you stranded, if you see a problem replace as soon as possible. Hope this helps. "G"
jack up the passenger side of the car. remove the splash guard in side the wheel well (all the black plastic inside fender)and remove the tire then u can acsess the belts. there are 3 sperate belts with non automatic idler pullys. loosen the idler pullys of the belts until u get to the compresser belt. replace then reinstall and tighten the belts with the idler pullys to repair manuel specs. a special tool will be required to get the correct tension of the belts
You don't tighten it. It has an idler pulley that keeps the proper tension. If this is an old belt and is loose, then it needs replacing. If you have installed a new belt and it is loose, then either you installed the wrong belt or the idler spring is weak and the idler needs replacing.
I believe there is an idler pulley which keeps the belt tight on the 4.0. If you are experiencing slop or looseness, I suggest you look at replacing the belt or maybe the idler is stuck or broken. I had to replace an idler in a Wrangler once.
The water pump and timing components should be replaced at intervals specified by manufacturer and you may replace just the idler pulley.
watch video on youtube.
I am hearig a similar whirring noise in my 04 Maxima that increases in pitch as the car accelerates. I suspect it is the idler puley. I'm planning to replace it in a couple of weeks and will report ba.
remove serpentine belt center bolt in idler remove, and install new pulleyand rplace belt the way it came off
Get a socket and a ratchet. Find out what socket fits the nut on the idler pulley. The whole idler arm should rotate counterclockwise. That'll relieve belt tension so you can replace the belt.
On my 97 3.5L you have to loosen the bolt (15mm)on the front of the idler (loosen, don't remove) then go underneath and the is a 13mm bolt that adjusts the position of the idler for tension. Loosen this and the idler should loosen up.
how do you chang the idel arm