You can save your seft lots of money by doing it your seft. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Maintenance Schedule The best way to get the maintenance schedule for your vehicle is to go to www.genuineservice.com and choose maintenance schedule from the left column. You'll then need to enter your VIN or answer some questions (year, model, transmission, etc.) about your vehicle. You'll get a complete maintenance schedule for your Ford Expedition. Good luck. ------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the "http://www.edmunds.com/products/maintguide/index.html" (no VIN needed).
Not only will it tells you the manufacturers recommended service, it'll estimate what it should cost in your zip code. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- or do it your seft. How to Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter By Dave West I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil on Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less painful. Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next remove the brace from the Power Steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs. To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out. After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you is good. On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in the hole which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall. Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them. I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a few hours.
That depends entirely on what vehicle you're buying them for and where you're buying them.
A spark plug that doesnt fire or a coil that doesnt fire Try a new set of plugs and wires
Coil Pack retails at £94 and plugs at £5 each, labour is only 30 mins if your paying someone to do it. If your doing it yourself then labour is free and you can get the pack for around £50-£70 plugs will still be about £5 each
as much as other ear plugs
The 3.5 has coil packs over the spark plugs (called a COP - coil over plug). When I changed my plugs a while back, I visually inspected the coil packs for cracks, and tested the coil resistance. If I remember correctly, they measured a few ohms (can't remember how many, something like 10 ohms), and all were identicle, so I assumed they were OK. If a coil is open, it would measure high resistance. It is unlikely a coil will completely short out, but I'd suspect a coil that reads much different from the others using a DC Volt meter.
Standard plugs are about a $1.50. Platinum plugs are about $4 and iridium plugs are about $7.
How much does a company charges to clean a condenser and evaporator coil
well each coil is $40.00 each , need 2, the spark plugs are $ 26.99 set , spark plugs $ 2.99 ea , need 4. So lets do some math .... $ 118.99 plus tax.
A 99 continental does not have a coil pack, it is a coil on plug design. They cost about 55 dollars each
About 400.00. They have to pull the upper engine manifold off to get to the rear three plugs, and each plug is platinum, and each has its own coil pack. Used those can be found for 50 ish apiece, or 250 each new. Have fun! :-) Do you mean coil pack cost $50 a piece? I don't think coil pack need to replace when 60K tune up is needed, I am not sure what mileage or time need to replace those coil pack. If you are talking about the spark plugs only, I got my NG iridiam for $9.99 each from kragen.
Approx $130 for the coil. See link below
maybe you have some bad gas try a can of dry gas