No. But it's tight.
Loosen the 18mm bolt about 4 or 5 mm and give the bolt a good wack and the pulley should pop. Then remove the bolt and pulley.
I don't know what car you are working on but usually there is a bolt that the pulley arm pivots on and another that will tighten and hold it in place. Look for that second bolt.
loosen the tension pulley bolt which is in the middle of the pulley, use a wrench, little work space is provided, just a little bit, then lossen the bolt that is behind the pulley, tho relive tension in the belt. take off the belt, and put on new one and tighten the bolt behind the pulley till belt is tight, then retighten the pulley bolt.
On the tension pulley above the AC unit there is a tension bolt behind the pulley. Loosen the front nut on the front of the pulley then loosen the long bolt to drop the pulley until the belt fits. Tighten the long back bolt until the belt is tight ( see manf. recommendations on torque ) then tighten the bolt on the front of the pulley.
The damper pulley bolt tightening specifications, on a Caterpillar see 15 diesel engine, is 60 pounds per square inch. The pulley should not be tightened beyond 60 pounds.
It's pretty easy on an aircooled engine. The bolt that holds it on doesn't get very tight, so what you need to do is to lock the crank pulley somehow--I've done it by just squeezing the belt together real tight with my hand--and removing the bolt with a 30mm socket. If you stil On a watercooled engine you'll need an impact wrench. In either case, once the bolt is out the pulley slides off the crank. You might need a puller on a watercooled engine; I never have used one on an aircooled engine--you can normally just wiggle the pulley a little and it slides off. Helpful hint: on an aircooled car put a little high-temp grease on the end of the crank before you put the pulley back on. There's a Woodruff key in there so it won't spin around, but it will make getting it on and off easier. I wouldn't do it on a watercooled car because on those there isn't anything to keep the pulley from spinning except for LOTS and LOTS of torque on the bolt.
One bolt holds the tensioner to the engine, take it off to get the tensioner off and then you can get to the bolt that holds the pulley to the tensioner.
NO, IT'S JUST VERY TIGHT.
No it is not. The bolt on the pulley is but the tensioner mounting bolt is a T55 torx bit head with the standard thread (right/tight left/loose).
There are two bolts you must turn to remove the old tension pulley. The one on the pulley must be loosened in order to loosen the tension pulley. To the left of the pulley(looking from the passenger side of the vehicle) the tensioning bolt is situated at a right angle to the pulley bolt. It is pointing towards the rear of the vehicle. There is an aluminum slug inside the mount point for the pulley. You may have trouble threading the bolt back into the slug once removed. It is possible but you may have to hold the slug steady with the tensioning bolt. Be sure to keep the aluminum brace that goes on the outside of the pulley. It will be hard to find if you lose it. Once the bolt holding the tensioner is removed from the engine the parts simply slip apart. Be sure to reassemble them just like you dissasembled them. Tighten the bolt to the point that the pulley can still be adjusted with the tensioning bolt. Tighten the tensioning bolt until the belt is tight to specifications. then be sure to tighten down the pulley bolt.
A ratchet and socket on the bolt that holds the crank pulley on.A ratchet and socket on the bolt that holds the crank pulley on.