I agree it is possible for the sluge to go into your oil pump and cause it plug up, but if you read on the back of the can it says if your vehicle has more than 50,000 miles on it you need to take the oil pan off and clean all the excess sluge off, this will fix your problem with puging up your oil pump, unless it just happend to do it while your flushing your engine in the five min. another thig to stop this is to put a new oil filter on before you begin to flush, because your old filter most likely cant filter enough. Once the flush is done put another oil filter on#8I'd have to say the tranny fluid in the oil is the best idea so far. To prevent the problem I also agree on using synthetic oil. Use store brand synthetic if you're frugal. Basicly, if you need to use gumout, you've been abusing your engine anyway. Had a 4L Jeep and a 5L Chevy k1500 die after gumout clogged the small channels used to distribute the oil - so about 6-8k miles later, the valves were burning up and the engine started braking internal components. And that's with removing the oil pan on both, and changing the sump screen, oil filter, etc. #9You know I have been using the product for years . There are a couple of things to keep in mind . The main one is if this is not a routine thing then it will have to be flushed twice and the filter changed in between flushes . What happens is the flush itself doesn't ruin your engine the debre in your engine does . Everyone that has a problem after one flush is due to the engine is so nasty on the inside gunk disolves everything , but it is not drained out the oil pan . You can blame it on the flush or you can blame it on how many times you have missed an oil change at 3500 intervials . If you think changing the oil at every 3500 miles is all there is don't get me started on the air filter , breather filter , pcv valve , and fuel filter ! #10I've read everyone's answers and most of them seem to address that unless you have kept up the proper maintenance on your vehicle and that it's the sludge buildup that kills your engine and not the flush, are there any special care instructions written in the directions and if so shouldn't they perform these precautions at the service businesses when the service is being offered? Has anyone contacted a rep at the services corporate offices or Pennzoil-Quaker State company to confirm this? It just seems to me that there's allot of guessing going on as to why a few people have had egine problems after using the product. I personally have used the service after 80,000 miles on my Chevy pickup and have not had a problem since. #11Any "engine flush in a can" has the potential to cause problems. As others have said, the loosened sludge, carbon and particulate will only end up in the sump to cause problems later. (It will also break down the surface tension of the oil.) 10% of the old oil remains in an engine after an oil change. That 10% is in the casting cavities and the bottom of the sump.There is only one safe flush system which, unfortunately, is not available in the USA. Best solution for automobile owners-Buy a cheap oil, run it 500 miles and change the oil and filter. Do that 3 times and then go back to a good quality oil, either mineral or synthetic and use a good quality filter. #12I use kerosene. Drain a quart of old oil out and add 1 quart kero. in. Run at idle 20 mins. then drain. Next, pour 1 quart of oil in the engine with the oil pan plug off so the oil drains. That helps clear out the kero. and loose debris. Then do a reg. oil change, wait 1000 miles and change oil and filter again.
Add Engine Flush to the motor oil at running temperature before changing the oil. After adding the product, allow the engine to idle for approx. 10 minutes. Then change the oil and the filter. Engine Flush is compatible with all commercially available motor oils. We recommend cleaning the engine interior with Engine Flush before every oil change.
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