Check the resistance on the blower motor.
Blower motor located at the passenger side under the dash. Probably the blower motor but you need to check the blower motor resistor and the plug to the resistor. A common cause is the plug tends to melt & short out.
Need to replace the blower motor resistor which is located just under the passenger side dash. 2 bolts on either side will remove it. Cost of replacement resistor is about $20.
the reason blower does not work on all speeds, is the fan blower motor resistor. The resistor is a 4-5 step series circuit, 1 resistor is added for each reduction in speed. If one burns out then so will all speeds below it. The "high" circuit usually has a separate fuse and bypasses the resistor altogether.
Examine the back of the switch for loose or melted connections. Then examine the resistor for burned spots. In most cases a burned resistor is the result of a failing blower motor. So if a new resistor burns out in a short time, replace the motor also.
When the blower motor stays on it means there is a short to power, or the relay is sticking. 99.9% of the time the relay sticks. I belive on the 2004 silverados the blower motor relay is internal to the blower motor resistor. Try to find an auxillary blower motor relay and if there isn't one then replace the blower motor resistor.
Check all the fuses and relays first. If they all appear to be in good working order, then you'll have to get to the blower motor. Could be a short or the motor could be bad.
Short of it is the resistor controls the fan speeds for the blower. Easy to replace and to my knowledge only available through a dealer.
Short in the circuit somewhere. Try unplugging the blower motor, closing the circuit with a test lead or test light, and seeing if it blows then. If not, the problem would seem to be in the blower motor itself.
The most likely cause is a failed blower motor resistor. When they burn out, they leave you with only the high speed fan setting no matter where you set the switch. They're about $20 usually, and can be purchased from any Dodge/Chrysler dealer, and some auto parts stores. It's a super-simple do-it-yourself repair, all you need is a screwdriver. Click through the Related Question below for instructions on how to replace it.
Buick Century Blower Motor ResistorThe blower motor resistor is located on the back of the blower motor housing under the dash on the passenger side. It can be difficult to get at, but it is doable. Be ready with the ibuprofen the next day for your sore back. Remove the cover panel from beneath the dash on the passenger side.Unplug the power 'ribbon' wires leading to the resitor.Unplug the wires that lead from the resitor to the blower motor housing. There are usually two, one black and one purple that share the same plug.Remove the short hose that leads from the blower motor housing to the ventilation system ducts.Remove the blower motor by removing the three hex screws that hold it in place.Remove the resistor by removing the three hex screws that hold it in place. The resistor is right against the firewall so two of the screws are very difficult to reach. A slender flexible socket extension will make the job easier.Attach the new resistor in place using the same hex screws. Only 1 or 2 of the original three are needed (the part is very light) if you do not feel like fighting with the ones next to the firewall.Reatach the blower motor and reconnect the hose.Plug the power cable wires back into the resitor and the wire from the resistor back into the blower motor.Instead of hex screws mine were held in with 7/32 bolts. It was difficult, but easier than I had anticipated. I replaced two of the three bolts holding the resistor. The blower motor came with instructions saying that the plugs may have to be cut off of the resistor and the blower motor, then spliced together... I had to do this on mine.I got everything back together and now the fan works on four of the five levels. It does not work on high.I found on another site that said "high" uses a different circuit, with a separate fuse. I found the fuse panel on the passenger side of the dash when the door is open. The cover for the panel has all of the fuses mapped out, so it was easy to spot the 25 amp "Blower High Speed" fuse. I was very impressed to find the panel contained a fuse puller and replacement fuses. Mine was blown, I replaced it, and all is good with the world.The information I received here was extremely helpful. Thank you.
Hi, I just replaced the resistor on my '98 Intrigue- it's quite possible they are located similarly. The resistor is located under the dash on the passenger side, right behind the blower. I had to pull the blower out to gain better access to the resistor assembly. There is a short cable assembly that connects the resistor to the blower so if you look for the two wires that come out of the back of the blower they should lead you right to the resistor. The resistor is very hard to get to because of the hex head screws being right up against the floorboard but you only need to loosen the two back screws and remove the one in front to be able to pull the resistor assembly out. If you can get a small 5/16" socket on the screw heads you should be able to loosen them enough. There will be a larger cable assembly plugged into the resistor also. The whole procedure took me about a half hour, not a bad job but just hard to maneuver down there. !
Remove the trim panel under the glove box (one press in plastic stud and two plastic latches). You will see the bottom of the blower motor. The blower motor resistor is between the blower motor and the firewall. To replace it, first unplug the blower motor (connection on the firewall-side of the motor...note: press opening between leads to release wire connector). There are three screws that hold the blower motor in. They are equally spaced in the mounting ring, so one is toward the firewall. Note: mine required a Torx bit. You will probably need to remove the wiring loom retainer to get the motor out - it sticks through a bracket by the motor - squeeze the end together with a pair of needle nosed pliers, and it will pop back through the bracket. There are three hex head screws that hold the resistor in place. One is easily accessible, once the blower motor is removed. The other two are on the firewall-side of the resistor and are kind of embedded in the rubber-coated noise barrier that is under the carpet. Pull up the trim piece that covers 2/3rds of the door threshold (it just pulls up, pushes back in). Pull the carpet back toward the seat. This will expose a larger area of the black-rubber-coated noise barrier. I made a couple of short cuts in my noise barrier and pulled it away from the resistor mounting screws. Note: The mounting holes for the resistor are open-ended slots. Take out the screw that is most accessible, generously loosen the screws near the firewall. Remove the resistor, and install the new one. Start the screw that had been removed, then tighten all three screws. Test the blower motor (hook leads directly to the battery and/or check for continuity with an ohm meter) before reinstalling it - most resistor failures are due to a defective motor! A defective motor will cause the new resistor to fail (again). Install motor. Reinstall air hose to motor - it connects to ductwork by the resistor. Reinstall wire loom retainer. Start car and test run blower. Fold noise-barrier and carpet back into place. Reinstall trim panel in door threshold. Reinstall trim panel under glovebox. Go for a test drive and enjoy!