It sounds like there is air in the clutch line somewhere. Bleed the clutch (if possible, some clutches are "self-bleeding" and need to be replaced entirely).
There is a collar in the front of the transmission ( bellhousing ) that the throw-out bearing slides on when you push the clutch pedal down and let off. It more then likely has a bad were grove cut into it and throw-out bearing is hanging up on it, so it makes a popping noise. You may even have some springs broken in the pressure plate. Need to remove transmission and clutch assy. Be sure to check piolet bearing in the back of crankshaft too.
down shifting is not bad at all... as long as your are downshifting properly and not trying to drop more than one gear at a time or dropping a gear, popping the clutch and redlining then, it's fine... when you're slowing down, squeeze the clutch, down shift, and slowly release the clutch... if you just let it go then yes it can be bad
slave cylinder
Usually when you are driving down the road and you punch it, your RPM's will jump then go back down. I had this problem in my 1988 S-10 and about 2 weeks later the clutch went.
The clunk is probably a universal going bad, and the popping out is probably caused by worn sifter bushings
press down on the clutch, keep it pressed down, and have another person loosen the bleeder screw with the clutch depressed, then tighten it back up and release the clutch. Do this several times until you get a steady stream of fluid (with no air in the fluid) and be sure a keep the clutch master cyl. full at all times, because it will lose fluid when you bleed it Note: if the bleeder screw is tore up, you can always loosen the hose where it enters the slave, and do the same process, using the hose inlet instead of the bleeder screw.
In most cases they leak hydraulic oil out the back of the cylinder. Crawel up and under the drivers side clutch pedal area and look for fluid leaking inside where the clutch actuator rod enters the back of the clutch master cylinder. It should be dry.
May be clutch cable sticking, clutch lever on the gearbox sticking or the actual friction plate in the clutch sticking on the shaft. the latter would probably mean taking the gearbox out to check. The clutch lever on box is easily oiled but usually the return from a clutch is great enough to pull it back but check anyway.
Shut the throttle. Pull in your clutch. Kick the gear lever down. Let out the clutch. More advanced: Shut the throttle. Pull in your clutch. Kick the gear lever down. Blip the throttle - let out the clutch.
The clutch arm is like a teeter-todder. The clutch arm sits on a pivot point in the transmission bell housing and disengages the clutch by pushing down on the pressure place through a "throw out" bearing when the clutch pedal is pushed down.
Unnatural.
True