It's located in the front or side of the engine. It will unplug and then just plug another one in.
Which fan is not working? Engine fan or HVAC fan?
To replace headlight bulb:
Do not twist, as there are alignment slots built into the lamp assembly socket.
It may take some effort to remove the lamp because it has a rubber o-ring type seal - try a bit of wiggling side-to-side
Make sure that the flat surface of the bulb socket is facing upward, and is firmly seated
Replacing front parking lamp/turn signal/cornering lamp bulbs
If the bulb is accidentally touched, it should be cleaned with rubbing alcohol before being used.
See "Related Questions" below in case you can't find yours.
The above information extracted from the Owners Manuals(see below)
Remove screws holding the plastic headlight and remove the headlight. Remove socket (twist/pull) and pull out the bulb.DIY - 5 Minute Turn Signal Bulb ReplacementThis is very simple to do. First you will need an 8mm socket and wrench to loosen one bolt. Second a good long flat head screwdriver. There are two black metal folded tabs behind the headlight assembly and one 8mm bolt holding it in plae at the center point of the front of the car. Loosen the bolt and remove. Use the screw driver to pull up the metal straps and then slide forward the entire assembly. This will slide easily unless your front bumper has been bumped! That will make it a little difficult to slide if it is out of alignment. If it was never bumped than this should take all of 5 minutes. See pictures here:
It's actually quite easy. You must remove the entire plastic housing. Behind the light there ate two locking bars that slip up and down. Remove those and a screw holding the light/lens in place. From there remove the bulb covering, then remove the twist lock holding the bulb in place. After that, just pull the bulb out and replace. Put back in reverse order.
Open the hood, looking down at the headlamp assembly, you'll see a 5/16 retaining bolt on the inboard corner. Remove the bolt. Look for two tabs at the rear of the assembly. Pull up and remove these tabs, you may need a large screwdriver to lever them. Pull the assembly out and remove the wiring harness attachment. Turn the retaining collar to the left and remove. Unplug the wiring socket from the lamp. Turn the lamp retaining collar to the left and remove. Pull the lamp out of the assembly. Replace with the new lamp, being VERY careful not to touch the lamp other than on the base. Halogen lamps will heat up any oils from contact with your hand and probably explode. Reverse the above directions to reinstall the headlamp assembly.
Very easy. 2002 Ford Taurus.
Take a look at the entire headlight assembly. Look down on the assembly and toward the side closest the radiator you will see a small bolt to unscrew on each housing.
Look toward the rear of the headlight and you will see two metal clips that need to come out. A medium size flathead will get them started but they should come staight up. The assembly will now pull out of the front of the vehicle. Be sure to unclip the small wiring harness.
Uncrew the back of the assembly and you will see the back of the bulb. Detach wiring. Unscrew the ring holding the lamp. Remove old bulb.
DO NOT touch the glass of your lamps! It will cause hot spots and the bulb will burn out.
Take new bulb and notice the notches...they will orient the bulb correctly. Screw on ring. Attach wiring. Screw on the back of the assembly. Attach the wiring and install back into the front of your vehicle.
The headlight lens is held in with 1 bolt on the front inside end of the lens, and 2 retainer pins at the backside (pull straight up to remove).
The Owners Manual has the steps and illustrations around page 37.
See "Related Questions" below for free online Owners Manual
If the car ain't broke don't fix it ------------------------------------------------ The cover on the mirror will pry off. Try a table knife and work it around the edge of the cover. This is hard to get off without maring the plastic edge. Once you get the cover off, complete dis-assembly should be obvious.
Under the hood on the right side you will see a black plastic with a red battery terminal post on it. Remove this cover to access the relays and fuses. On the inside of the cover is a diagram that shows you what relay is for what system. You should see 2 cooling fan relays.
Have you checked for a relay that might have been damaged when the fuse blew? With an overcurrent, it is possible for the relay to pick up and then become 'welded' so it will not release. If you find the relay and remove the cover, the contacter should move when you apply a little pressure to it. If this doesn't happen, replace the relay. Much harder to check would be if insulation melted during the overcurrent and fused power to a horn and light wire. Relay for sure.
Check "My Contributions" on the left side of the page. Your answer is in there.
It means take the car to the dealer for its scheduled maintenance.
You can also check for a reset button for your vehicle. In a certain number of miles the check engine light will come on you you can take it to the dealer and they can charge you $50 to $100 dollars to reset it. They won't tell you your vehicle has a reset button they will tell you to bring it in.
its probably just the oxygen sensor. have it looked at/ its not that serious
Mine came on at 105K kms (~ 65K miles). I bought an OBD II Code reader off of Ebay for $50 and found out that the 'System was too lean' So it's not serious in my case. But I haven't taken any steps to fix it. A friend recommends I take care of it since a lean system can cause wear to the valves.
Mine came on at roughly 80k, the engine would stall while I was breaking, and excelleration became difficult. I had the code read and it was I believe bank 1 sensor 2...system too lean. I had it diagnosed and its the mass airflow sensor. You can take this part out and have it cleaned or you can spend the 500-600 on the part from Nissan (not including labor time) because they insist the car will chew up and spit out generic brand sensors (nissans are nitorious for it ANYWAY!)
A code reader for your car is a pretty good investment. Two or three uses will generally pay for it. If your code indicated something like a defective oxygen sensor or a mass air flow sensor, you would probably want to get that fixed because most of the errors you see will affect gas mileage and at todays prices, can you afford to ignore it?
i had the same exact vehicle. you don't release the tensioner, you'll have to take the presure off with a ratchet and socket. on the front of the tensioner pulley there is an arrow that has "loosen" next to it . get a socket that fits on the bolt in the middle of the pulley. ratchet the pulley towards the loosen side. there will be alot of tension so be careful. the belt will loosen when you turn it. slip the belt off the pulley and very slowly release the pressure off. it will pull against you alot but it will stop. just reverse this when putting the belt back on. also try to not take all the belt off if you don't have to, this will help w/putting the belt back on.
That's pretty much the way it goes unless you can show that the other car cut in front of you AND stopped. You are always supposed to follow at a distance that will allow you to stop safely. (But in practice, if you leave that much space, two cars, a bus, and a semi will all squeeze in.)
Roy's right. Even though most driving manuals say it's sometimes best to hit an animal instead of causing an accident, you should be able to stop.
Look at it this way: The driver ahead of you decided to stop. He can reasonably expect traffic behind him to stop as well (I think we all would, right?). And what if he stopped because a kid had run in the road, or a tree fell in front of his car? Different circumstances, yes, but the idea's the same.
faulty drl module
Check the fuse.The fuse may be blown
Its in the front. if you crank your wheel to the right, and look in the space in your drivers front tire. you will see this metal bar going to both sides. there is a long bolt going up with a few rubber bushings on it. if you search up sway bar kits for the cavalier you will know what im talking about. Hope this helps
From underneath, remove five underbody cover screws. Remove cover. Pull brake cooling tube off where is attaches to the front bumper. Push the tube to the side so you can get to the light fixture better. The turn signal bulb mounts in the bottom of the fixture. There is a clip on the bulb socket. Squeeze the clip and turn the socket counter clockwise. The wire is long enough to drop the socket out the brake cooler inlet hole in the bumper ... then you can go to the front of the car. Just pull the old bulb straigt out of the socket and push the new one into place. Its a good idea to put a little electrical grease on the contacts before inserting the new bulb. Now test that its working correctly. Go back underneath and put everything back together.
It uses the standard 5w 30. If U change the oil in the spring and know U will changing it in the fall , I recommend using 10w 30 as it provides better protection at start up. This is if the vehicles engine is in good running order and not burning an excessive amount of oil.
The remaining gases after the claus reaction contaning (apart from combustible gases, also consists of H2S, H2, CO, CS2, SO2, and COS) is called "tail gas".
The 2.4 L4 DOHC has the most horsepower (150). I think this is the engine that was used in the GT model. Unfortunately, there is no real performance information included.
The single OHC 2.2 L4 gives the best mileage (25/34)
If you're looking to race with the guys who are running hot Honda's, Hyundai's and Subaru WRX's, you will surely want the 2.4 DOHC. I don't know how competitive you could expect your Sunfire to be. Those little rice rockets really haul ass with just a few bolt on performance parts.
The only Sunfire I've driven is my '96 which has the OHV 2.2 coupled to the 4 speed automatic trans. If pushed a little, she'll be up to 55 mph or so on a freeway onramp. I guess I'd consider it's acceleration "acceptable".
One of the things that Sunfire owners have always wished, was that there had been a 6 cylinder engine offered. That could have made a world of difference. I don't know of a bolt up 6 cylinder option.
I know this doesn't really address your question, but I hope it enlightens you just a little. In order to really know the answer, I guess you'll have to find a GT to drive.
the headlight on my ford explorer keep going on and off on it does not go off on the dashbroad i want to no what it is
It depends on which engine you have. V6 1-6-5-4-3-2 if it's a 4 cyl 1-3-4-2.
Trouble code P0502 means:Vehicle speed sensor circuit low input
Automatic transmission, correct? Then it will be best visible from the pass front wheel well, where you'll be able to feel it above the oil pan. It is not a fun task if you are doing this without a hoist, but it is possible.
The 2.2L and 2.4L uses a chain.a bad chain or tensioner will make the oil light come on at idle
ok. I have a '96-er and mine went about a week ago. pain the the butt. crawl on your back underneath the steering column so your head is near the pedals. look up. there is a metal panel with two switches the rest against the upper panel of the brakes. above it attached by a clip (or in my cavy, glue) is a little square with a cable running from it. that's it. be careful though, the switches resting on the brakes control the brake lamps and cruise control. i squeezed my stubby little hands up to get the flasher and snapped the plastic on the brake light switch.
above all. Google it. theres a pretty darn good diagram out there that pretty well explains it.
NGK recomends BR9EIX
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