Chevrolet

150 ft lbs

The cover over the entire light assembly is held on with 4 plastic clips. They are a little tough to unsnap. Get your fingertips between headliner and the edge of the dome light cover and pull straight down. I worked them out one at a time. 4 firm pulls and 4 pops and the cover should be off. Getting it to snap back on is harder. There are 2 very thin fingers that must be lined up with the light assembly before pushing the light cover back home. Again 4 separate pops but you will need to push harder than you'd think. Try focusing the pressure right under each clip, and one at a time they should pop back.

10mph slower than john in the old chevy....

It depends on where you go!

www.car-parts.com is your best bet on the internet but I doubt you'll find anything.

Classic car parts are difficult to come by. Your best bet is to talk to some body shops that do classic car restoration. Ask them who their vendors are. Most of these guys aren't on the internet. You can spend hours and hours on the phone with them trying to track down just what you need. A body shop that specializes in classic cars can also tell you if that model is interchangeable (meaning if you can use a '69 or a '71, etc.).

Good luck!

A closed traverse (polygonal, or loop traverse) is a practice of traversing when the terminal point closes at the starting point.[7] The control points may envelop, or are set within the boundaries, of the control network. It allows geodetic triangulation for sub-closure of all known observed points.

If my memory is correct, after you remove the 6x9 oval speaker you will see four studs that are attached to the speaker grill that have a small 1/4 or 5/16 nut holding the grill to the dash.

Yes, but only on cranks and conrod 'bigends'. It's still the best answer for relatively low temp/pressure bearings.

Yellow , Black and white, Red and Black, tan and tan

A B C D E

That head was used on 71-72 350 LT1 engines. chambers are 75CC.

get long tubes no matter what but hooker seems to be the way to go with those motors

If the bulbs light up but will not flash, the flasher relay is defective, and needs replacing. If none of the bulbs light up, the fuse is blown.

If you want the front WHEEL BEARINGS to come apart and the wheel hub to come apart you can.

The end of the axel shaft slides through the bearing hub assembley and when you put the nut on the axel and torque it to 150 ft LBS, That is what holds the front bearing hub together.

That is one expensive fuel pump. Price:$441.89 at Auto Zone. That does not include the labor to install itI would make darn sure the pump is bad. Unless you have lots of miles on this vehicle the pump should not have failed. Did you replace the fuel filter at 50,000 miles. A clogged fuel filter will burn a good pump up. Have you checked the fuse and the fuel pump relay? Contact your local Chevy dealer and see if it is under warranty on your 3 year old vehicle. They may help you out with this. Does not hurt to ask.

45 lbs.

Firing Order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 Of course the cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4-5-6 from the front of the engine to the rear. Remove the distributor cap & spark plugs, and turn the engine over slightly without starting and observe which way the engine turns and which way the distributor rotor rotates. Now turn the engine over by hand until you get the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Now look where the rotor is pointing. It will be pointing at the #1 spark plug wire location. Replace all spark plugs. Connect the #1 plug to the location the rotor is pointing to. Now count in the direction the rotor turns to the 5th plug location and connect the 5th spark plug wire there. Then do the 3rd, 6th, 2nd, and finally the 4th. Reinstall the rotor and fire it up. For more info on your Chevy click the link.

4582 lbs

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Distributor rotates Clockwise. Cylinder locations: Driver's side: 1-3-5-7 Passenger side: 2-4-6-8

It can be anywhere you want it if you are building a motor fom scratch. If you have taken this vehicle apart, then it is where the #1 plug wire comes into the dist. cap. If you were changing the wires, and are bveyond that, then what you will have to do is look down at the harmonic balancer. There will be a tab sticking out of the timing cover, on the drivers side. There will be a slash on the balancer, and it will line up with the 0 mark on the tab. You will have to have someone "bump" the starter to line the two up, and, if you stand in front of the car, and reach down with both hands, you can usually turn the motor a little bit by hand. After lining the two up, take off the distributor cap and notice where the rotor is pointed. You can be 180 degrees off, if the timming mark is lined up, so the rotor could be 180 off, but, the rotor should be pointing somewhere in the 4, or 5 oclock position on the distributor. That is where the factory usually puts ther #1.

If it is the new body style 2000 and up will fit.

If it's the old body style then 1988 to 2000 will fit and match.

I think your question is written wrong, but I think you need some kind of breather or the engine can build up to much pressure inside.

Chevrolet is one of the brands owned by General Motors.

Not necessary.

Although not necessary, many machine shops use a drop on the main and rod caps as "insurance".

Since it doesn't harm anything and it MIGHT prevent a bearing cap from working loose, why not?

Means it's a 1975 350 for conv. cab. 165 horsepower with 4 bolt mains.