You can use any 9v adapter as long as the output amperage is rated higher than the amperage rating of your appliance so yes a 600ma adapter can be used to power a 500ma or 400ma appliance

I believe it would be best for you to ask your local Electric Company..considering that different areas may have different hours? Hope tis helps..:)

Normally in the US voltage for TVs is 120 volts at 60 Hz (hertz). Many countries use 220, 230 or 240 volts at 50 Hz. To understand hertz, you need to understand AC voltage. AC voltage cycles between a positive voltage and a negative voltage. It basically goes up to the peak voltage, then comes down to a negative voltage. It does not do this instantaneously, but instead, does it over time. If you were to graph this pattern, it would form a sin wave, which would slope up, then slope back down. It looks like the tilde on a keyboard "~". Each time this full cycle happens within 1 second, we call it a hertz. So our 60 Hz system would cycle from positive to negative 60 times a second. When you see Hz, it means cycles per second.

I am not a TV expert, but I think some manufacturers double the cycles per second to 120 Hz so that they can refresh the picture twice as fast in order to try to get rid of flicker and show a cleaner looking picture.

difference is 2.7 amperes in numbers will be 12 volts 3 amps and the other will be 12 volts .3 amps

General Electric makes and sells refrigerators that use 220 volt electricity. They are manufactured for use overseas, but are sold in the US as well.

No. In general, a charger needs to be able to figure out when the battery has reached full charge, otherwise the charger can damage the battery by overcharging it. You need to use the specific charger required for the battery.

And, if you are trying to power a non-battery device that requires 1A from a 5V 100mA source, you will not be able to maintain 5V, so it will not work there either.

Wattage is unit of power which is the product of Voltage in V and Current in Amps. If you know the current drawn by the appliance with 1200 Watts then you can calculate the Voltage = Power/ Current. For eg. if the current drawn by the appliance is 100A then the voltage is 1200/100 i.e. 12 Volts.

An appliance that was designed to work on 230 v will not work on a 120 v power supply. It is possible to buy a transformer to convert the voltage: the transformer has to be the right size (or larger) for the amount of power/current required.

Alternatively in the USA a 208 v or 240v supply can be found in most houses, so the only difference is the frequency of the supply, which might or might not be a problem depending on what kind of appliance it is. For a motor, the 60 Hz frequency could be a problem.

US homes use a 240 volt single phase 'Edison' system. It is a 3-wire (4 with the ground) system. Phase to phase measures 240v, while each phase to neutral measures 120v.

Yes, a 9v 1100mA power adapter work with your 9v 500mA device. The mA number is the maximum amount of amperage that the adapter will produce without overloading itself. At 500 mA the adapter will only be working at half load.

Most probably you are using a AC (117V or 220V) to DC 6V converter adapter. If yes, then the answer is no, you cannot use a lower current rating for a device that draws more current. If you plug in a device that needs DC 6V 500 mA to an adapter that can only supply DC 6V 300mA, then the adapter could start sending higher than 6 volts current which may damage your equipment or overheat the adapter.

If you are using a higher mA rating adapter, then it's okay.

For more technical details, see:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/plugpack.pdf

Probably not.

There are two types of adapters- regulated and non-regulated. An unregulated 9V adapter might have as much as 16 volts across its terminals when not connected, and deliver only 9V under load. Enough to fry something expecting 7.5 volts.

A regulated 9V adapter is better behaved and will probably deliver 9-10 volts. Still, this may well fry your 7.5 V device.

Get the right adapter.

The higher voltage it transformed to a lower voltage by the use of a step down transformer.

Assuming a typical North American residential service, Voltages of 145VAC are possible when the Service Entrance (Source of Electrical supply) has lost its neutral (Grounded Current Carrying Conductor)

Especially in older installations, the lose of the 'Neutral' can cause voltage to swing from 0vac to 160V (The highest I have ever seen personally). The reason the voltage 'floats' is because the system has lost it's neutral reference from the power company's transformer.

The condition is very hazardous and can/will severely damage anything connected to the system.

It is strongly recommended that you disconnect any devices and have a licensed electrician inspect your service entrance immediately. Typically the problem is customer equipment side, and you will be charged. In the event the power company equipment is responsible, they could be (possibly, varies depending on location and power company) responsible.

In my personal experience, this condition is caused by either a poor connection at the weatherhead, or lose/corroded connections either in the meter base or in the main breaker panel.

Typically, customers are responsible for their respective service entrances up to the weather head. Which is the mast and wires above the meter base, all the way to the connections in the drip loop.

A 300 MCM copper conductor will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less when supplying 125 amps for 500 feet on a 250 volt system.

On a situation like this two transformers might be considered. One to boost the voltage to a higher level. This allows a smaller and less expensive conductor to be used between the two transformers and then drop the voltage down at the load end to feed the load at the recommended value.

Price out the cost of the 300MCM conductor and then compare that against the cost of the two transformers and the new smaller wire size. By boosting the voltage to 600 volts between the transformers the wire can be reduced to a 1/0 copper conductor. This will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less when supplying 125 amps for 500 feet on a 600 volt system.

No you shouldn't use a 14 volt 5 amp adapter on a 12 volt 5 amp device unless you know for sure that the 12 volt device has an internal voltage regulator that will lower the voltage to the correct voltage range the device was designed to use.

As long as you always take care to check the output voltage with a voltmeter first, to be sure that the voltage from the adapter is regulated, meaning that it does not rise when a lower current in amps is drawn from it, you may be able to use an adapter that gives the right voltage at a higher amp output rating than the device actually takes. (For example, it may be possible to use a 12 volt 7 amp adapter for a 12 volt 5 amp device.)

I think you mean to ask if one can use a 9v 600mA adapter to power a 9v 300mA appliance. Yes, you can do that. A 9v 600mA adapter will deliver 9v at up to 600mA.

A mA is one milli amp, or one thousandth of an amp.

300mA is 300 thousandth of an amp, 300/1000 or 0.3 amps.

600mA is 600 thousandth of an amp, 600/1000 or 0.6 amps, and is twice the current of 300mA.

No. There are no "adaptors". To get 240V from a 120v supply you use a 120-240V step up transformer.

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Clothes dryers, water heaters and and other high-power 240 volt appliances cannot be run on a transformer from a 120 volt circuit. They must be powered from a separate branch circuit that has the right size breakers, cable and socket outlet to suit the appliance.

500mA = 500 miliamper

1000mA = 1 amp so 500mA = .5 amps

This is just a charge that accumulates on something that is isolated from ground. Under some circumstances a charge may build up on your body and then you touch something that is grounded and you get a shock. This is the static electricity flowing to ground.

The first paragraph below illustrates why you should hire a qualified electrician to do your electrical work and not take advice from just anyone.

"well i just the same install and it was recommended i go with a 3 conductor 2/0 aluminum AWG but to be safe with a voltage drop over that distance and a possible large draw for my equitment that i plan on getting in the future plus a rotary 3 phase 20 hp converter i upsized it to 3 conductor 1/0aluminum AWG"

(The next larger size wire would be a 3/0 not a 1/0! This is a good example of why unqualified people should not do electrical work, the answer below is correct).

To answer this question, the amperage of the load at the end of 200 feet has to be supplied.