Looking from the front down on the right hand side you have to remove the air filter box to access it. There is a hose that goes into a metal housing that splits the water flow in 2 directions. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the thermostat in the housing and pull back on the hose. Make sure to match your old one with the new one before you install it.

Yes. Positive (red) terminal is on fuse box under hood. Small tab located directly behind power steering pulley on top. Or just ground to the body. Also, the battery is under the back seat

firewall

7 - 8

5 - 6

3 - 4

1 - 2

front of Cadillac V8

Google Kelly Blue Book and enter in the information such as condition and mileage, it's your best bet for an estimate

The wheel comes off first then the caliper then the rotor just slips off. GoodluckJoe

Witth the ign on, push the OFF and WARM buttons in together , hold, then release and read the codes hold down the OFF and WARM buttons of the a/c panel with ign on, release buttons after double 8's are seen , then read codes.

this all applies to my 95 Trooper but according to your references, it applies to a 93 also. I know what WON'T WORK. Pulling the fuse in the left bulkhead will not do it. Glueing the console alarm switch to off will not work. Removing all the wires to this switch will not work. I could find no reference to the anti-theft system in the under hood fuse block. My dome lights arent working--probably the bulbs are burned out. Would replacing them be a good idea to get a test indication? I have an almost new battery. Apparently the alarm sounding draws it down quickly as I could not get the starter to engage without a jump this morning. Even though I got it started, I dare not drive it for fear it will happen in a remote spot.

The water pump is timing belt driven. You should buy or borrow a service manual, as this is a very intensive repair.

396.00

This is a start but beyond this get your wallet out. The ABS and Traction Control are an integrated unit, ie: either could be at fault. First place to look is the wheel sensors, take one wheel off at a time and in behind on the back side of the hub assembly you will see an electrical connector with two wires going into it. Unsnap the connector and measure the resistance across the (wheel side) of the plug with your digital meter - set meter to ohms - mine were about 1.110 to 1.052 on the 2K ohms scale. What the actual reading should be I dont know but you can get a good idea if one is bad by comparing the measurements from all four wheels. Obviously a reading on one well above or below the others is a good indication of a bad sensor. The other check to do on each sensor is to check that the sensor is outputting. Connect your leads across the (wheel side) of the plug again and set your meter to AC volts on the lowest scale. Now put your wheel back on with a couple of nuts hand tight and spin the wheel while watching the meter. Mine showed about 0.40 volts turning as fast as I could - the voltage will vary the faster you turn. If you have no AC volts on one then take the brake caliper off and the rotor and inspect / clean the sensor and pulse mechanism from the inside & try again. Next - *switch on your ignition* & connect your meter across the (CAR SIDE) of the plug and switch to DC volts on say the 20 volt range - the reading on mine was about 4.7 volts and varied about 0.2 between all readings. (DO NOT SHORT OUT THESE BY ACCIDENT - GO SLOW USE EXTREME CARE) Again I do not know the actual spec but a reading on one greatly different from the others is a good indicator that something is wrong with the ABS module itself or the wiring leading back to it. Follow each line and check all plugs found. On the rear wheels the right and left sensors converge into a four wire plug fastned to a cross member about mid point. You can actually do all your checks here for the rear wheels without taking the wheels off if you want. The front is impossible to follow any distance.

Note that the plugs Cadilac uses for this system is absolutely pathetic considering the extreme harshness of the environment being right at the wheels and inches from the ground. Stones sticks or ice could rip them right off the car and they are watertight plugs not waterproof. WHAT A CRUEL JOKE! GM Engineers are morons. Instal an expensive safety system to insure it will never work when you need it most - wet & snowing. In any case this is as far as I got, all my readings were similar and therefore my problem is (not likely) to be a sensor. I'll add to this as I (learn more) & work back toward the actual system.

No it is not necessary to remove the axle nut in order to remove the front caliper. Once you remove the caliper the rotor should come off.

yes it is

you need do take the oil pressure switch off . install a manual oil pressure gage . then check oil pressure , cold and hot , cold will be higher / 30-40psi . hot at idle shouldbe around 8-12 psi or so. , if that checks out ok , you might just need a new oil pressure switch(it shoul be beside the oil filter . on the housing . if lower , your oil pump oe engine is worn out. time for a rebuild . hope this helps.

It is behind the battery on the drivers side inner fender. It has a heavy red wire that you can follow to the positive side of the battery. (There are some other wires also so if you replace the starter relay, mark your wires so as not to mix them up.) Hopefully this will help.

You can find a wiring diagram for a Cadillac Escalade V-8 in the vehicle's owner's manual. You can also find it at various auto stores.

where black wire for re-programming key-less entry

If it is carbureted and probably a V8 there is no fuel pump relay. the fuel pump is mechanicly driven and it is located on the front of the block on the passenger side.

Ensure all sway bar links are good (front & rear). Make sure front end is tight and struts are not worn.

The 2003 Cadillac Deville oil pressure sending unit is located on the left-hand side of the engine. The oil pressure sending unit will be three inches above the oil pan.

mine has been doing the same thing and its either a head gasket or a cracked head im just replacing my motor

did you check and clean the air flow meter ,the crankcase breather the idle control valve then the crank shaft sensor ,turn the key do not start it ,take off the fuel cap now can you hear the fuel pump turning ,if no then change the fuel pump relay details found on goggle on were the relay is cost about 20 USD in the UK about £18.

If you have a Northstar 4.6, start by purchasing the special removal/installation tool.

1. Drain the cooling system.

2. Remove both radiator hoses

The water pump is on the right hand side of the engine and is driven by a pulley that comes off of one of the overhead cams.

3. remove the air cleaner assembly.

4. remove the pulley guard.

5. loosen the tensioner and take the belt off of the pulley.

If you decide to replace the belt you need to remove the tensioner, remove the studs that the pulley guard came off of and the tensioner will come out.

6. remove the water pump housing cover. the thermostat housing is bolted to this cover. it has (4)10mm bolts that hold it on.

7. using the special tool, turn the water pump clockwise (it twist-locks into the housing) and remove it.

8. clean all sufaces, replace both o-rings.

9. CAREFULLY! install the new pump with the special tool. be careful that you turn it all the way in counter-clockwise but that you don't pull too hard. The pump has steel tabs that lock into grooves in an aluminum housing. if you damage that housing by forcing the pump too hard you will cost yourself a ton of time and money.

10. re-assemble the engine in reverse order as disassembly.

don't forget to use your torque specs. You are working with aluminum castings.

good luck!

A resistor designed to protect a circuit against overload.