Care of Snakes

That depends. If you are wanting them to be friendly, good with other people (in my case small children at shows) and easy around other pets in the house then you can handle them as much as you like and have time to offer but minimum of an hour a day. I handle all of mine for long periods of time from the day they arrive at my house unless they are very little. Hatchlings don't need to be handled as much because of the stress. But my adults accept 4+ hours of handling and usually won't get back in their tanks until they want to be put up. It does vary from snake to snake though and some will not like long periods of being held

If the stripes are light in color, maybe even off white it could be a CA king snake.

once every 2 weeks. You should feed them special frozen mice that are already dead to decrease harm of your snake. The older the snake gets, the bigger the mouse should be. Mice are the ideal food for corn snakes, nothing else. Rats are far too big at any stage of your snake's age or size.

Corn snakes have been known to cannibalize other snakes if kept together, especially when young. A larger snake ALWAYS has the potential to eat another snake if it can fit it down its stomach.

No. They should be kept on rats (or mice if smaller.) Ball pythons are not large enough to eat rabbits.

Temp: 78-84 degrees ambient daytime, w/ an 85-90 degree hot spot. Humidity: 30-50%

The Yellow Bellied Black Snake of Australia a close relative of the Red Bellied Black Snake.

It depends which species. Initial set up - around £250 including the snake. Monthly upkeep - £20-40 depending on the amount of food and electricity needed to maintain the snake. Preparation and knowledge on the individual species - priceless !

* The rare Paradise Flying Snake * The Sinaloan Milk Snake * The Central Plains Milk Snake * The Scarlet King Snake * The Long-Nosed Snake * The San Francisco Garter Snake * The Western & South American Coralsnake

A rodent (mouse or rat) of appropriate size (width of rodent should be 1-1.5x the width of the widest part of the snake) Can be fed pre-killed or live but pre-killed is the suggested method, especially frozen and then rethawed to ensure that any parasites the rodent may have had are killed off and not passed onto the boa.

Almost any, non-harmful plant would do. fake fern would be good for it. Or a luittle bundle thing of vines and leaves. Aslong as your snke is happy anf=d nonharmed with it.

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It depends where you are. You can't buy one in the UK - as The European Grass Snake (Natrix natrix) is protected under UK conservation laws. It's illegal to take them from the wild - and there are unlikely to be any for sale in UK pet shops.

Patience and perseverance. Most reptiles, though never actually becoming 'tame', will get used to being handled. If you're bothered about being bitten - wear thick gloves during the early stages of handling. Once you're confident the snake has accepted you're not going to hurt it - you can discard the gloves. A corn snakes bite is harmless (although painful) and can be treated with antiseptic.

put dead rats in there once they eat it it will swallow for a half a minute so 30 sec. so one they are swallowing get a old cage or a weapon like an axe cut its head off.

Hognose snakes are a pretty docile species. Also - they don't grow very big (about 18 inches !)

milk

The same kinds you do: stomach acid, amino acids, deoxyribonucleic acids... the only one that's actually noticeably corrosive is stomach acid.

Snake venom is not particularly acidic, if that's what you were thinking. Any cartoon or show that depicts "snake venom" eating through a metal floor or melting a metal spoon or something along those lines is indulging in a bit of hyperbole.

The large snakes generally eat rats, while the smaller ones eat crickets.

Abiotic factors are living things like predators, prey, and bushes so three abiotic factors could be, coyotes, mice or bushes. Biotic factors are non-living things. Three biotic factors could be, rocks, water, and sunlight. These things are all natural but another biotic factor could be something un-natural like plastic someone has thrown away or any other non-biodegradeable items.

well it really depends on alot of things but i have a rat snake too. when they r little, u feed them "pinkies" or small mice. and as they get older you move to "fuzzies", "weened", and "full grown". you should probably feed them frozen because sometimes the live ones fight back and hurt the snake.

during the winter, feed it once every two weeks and any other season, once a week.

happy i could help!

I got mines on sale for $40 at petsmart. We already had a glass aquarium, but im guessing about another $40 for a good sized cage. Maybe another $20-$30 for the aspen wood chips, hide hut, ect. Corn have to be fed outside of their cage, so if you do reach out to pick him up, your fingers dont look like a mouse, so a cheap $10 small transportation cage is what you want too....so, alltogether, approximatly $120. hope that helps!

They do not. A snakes' lower jawbone is only loosely connected to their upper jawbone. The lower jaw is made up of two bones that are connected by an elastic, or stretchy, tissue, so the snake can open its mouth very wide (several times as big as its own head), accommodating a relatively large animal.