I'm not exactly positive but i believe it is in the glove compartment

The thermostat is on the input radiator line going to the engine. Take the line off on the engine and the thermostat should be there. Now if you are talking about the thermostat for inside the car and not for the engine, the correct term for it is the climate control thermostat and it is located behind the wheel below the instrument cluster where there is a vented inclosure.

It is located on the passenger side. Here is how to get to it. I just did this last month and belive me, it drove me cazy trying to find it. You may want to disconnect your battery for this. You need to remove two(2) items first! 1. The complete clove box must come out, 3 or 4 screws on the bottom hindge and a few other places. 2. Left of the clove box is the fuse box, this must also come loose and slide out of the way. With a flashlight, you will see a bracket with two(2) round fuses on it, one is the turn signals and the other is the 4-way flashers. They both are attached to ONE item that is sitting on another bracket, just grab the whole braket and slide upward to release. Now you can change your fuse and put everything back together. What happen to the easy way, like putting it by the brake pedal like the old days? Hope this helped, Ron

Guessing bad headlamp switch. No power to taillight fuse feeds dash fuse also. Need to glance at wiring diagram to troubleshoot fast.

Starter, on the starter. Transmission, on the transmission.

I don,t know I am searching for an answer for my 1994

starr@bham.biz

There are four screws you need to take off. Only take the outer four corner ones. There are two other screws on the left and right of the head light leave those as is. Anyways just unscrew the four screws and pull the headlight off..and change the headlight!

Some rads don't have them. if yours is not on top of rad, you must fill through reservoir.

It is located back by the belhouseing on the left side.

The belt tensioner is spring loaded and can be un-tensioned with a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet , route the belt and then let the tensioner go.

Your 89 New Yorker has a peice of trim at the bottom the tail light, in that small piece of trim is a screw. Take that screw out and you can get to the rest of the screws that hold the tail light assembly in place, Oh yes most important you must have the trunk lid raised so you can get to the wiring harness.

not that i am aware of. i had a similar question for my 1991 new yorker salon. the best thing i found to do was to disable the alarm through the door. remove the door panel on the drivers side, you will notice two sets of cables and connectors near the base of the door. one goes to the motor of the window ( if your vehicle has automatic windows) and the other one is the door key sensor wire. (you will need a paper clip) test which two poles in the connector are for the alarm, there are three one is a ground. take paper clip and fit it onto those two poles, the alarm should stop and be deactivated. this should work for the time being until you can get a mechanic to fix the problem.

The engine computer is also the regulator.

The engine computer is also the regulator.

buy a hanes car manual for your car

A likely cause is an internally restricted radiator.

Pull on the hood release handle under the dash driver side. Then go to the front of the car, lift the hood slightly to access the secondary hood catch. Release it and open the hood.

Pull on the hood release handle under the dash driver side. Then go to the front of the car, lift the hood slightly to access the secondary hood catch. Release it and open the hood.

Idle speed is computer controlled and is not adjustable. If the speed is incorrect, there is a computer, sensor, or actuator failure.

As of 2014, there are a few places where one can get rear shocks for a 1994 Chrysler New Yorker with air ride. This can be purchased at Auto Zone and O'Reilly's.

Damaged Valve Train is Culprit!

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Our diagnostics by the book: We checked timing =OK. Rotated distributor through 30 degrees while running =no change. Points gap =OK. Firing order checked against book =was correct. Plug wires isolated to guard against crossfire =no change. Replaced cap =no change. Replaced rotor, points, condenser =no change.

At this juncture noted that backfire was VERY regular... as if related to one cylinder. So pulled each plug wire at distributor in order to see if one cylinder was culprit =#5 wire removed and backfire ceased. No other wire made any difference. #5 plug wire continuity/resistance checked =1500 ohms (3 foot resistor wire length). Swapped plug wires to check if dead/cross-firing wire =no change. Swapped #5 plug with #3 plug to check bad plug =no change. Noted that #5 carbon fouled, #3 not. Color of #3 looks good, so air/fuel mix ~OK. Compression test #5 against #3 and #1 cyl =all have 120-125 psi, so valve should be good.

At this point we called it a day. Engine starts, runs and even drives well enough on 7 cyls to be otherwise in good tune. Strong suspicion that (A) #5 is being leaned by bad intake gasket, (B) the valve is sticking just enough to be late closing, (C) there's a cracked head or head gasket issue. Are we on the right track?

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I would say you are on the right track. What ever is fouling #5 is probably causing the spark knock. Have you tried checking engine vacuum to see if there is a fluctuation. A fast needle could show a sticking valve.

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Solution: removed valve cover to observe valve action. Discovered #5 cyl had one push rod shoved right through the rocker arm at the push rod receiving cup (valve cover not hit by protruding tip). Pulled rocker shaft to replace and further discovered another valve had bent push rod. Now worried about whole valve train, especially a jammed lifter. At least it's less expensive than any other problem that could have happened at this point. The good compression indicates valves likely OK and engine is "noninterference" or "free turning" type that doesn't cause piston crowns and valves to damage each other if this sort of thing happens. Original cause of all this? Over - revving engine some time in past, coupled with worn rocker arm push rod receiving cup (due to low oil delivery to push rod tips).

SO. final verdict is: backfire caused by damaged valve gear, wherein #5 cyl pulls in charge and ignites it but, as exhaust valve isn't opening, burnt gasses can only leave via intake valve (near the moment of valve overlap), and further likely igniting intake gasses in the manifold and all eventually being forced out one side of the carb. Well that was interesting!

Chrysler dealer,

That happens when the transmission computer detects a malfunction and sets a code. It defaults to safe mode which is second gear. You need to have the codes read.

dot 3

there is one on the driver side in the front right next to the seat controll.. and on the other sided on the passenger side. the side panel justt pops off. and the size for these are about 5.25 in. the other two are in the back abouve the back seat around the brake light. they are in the 9 and 10 inch range. i do not know how to get to them yet.

Ignition coil circuit malfunction.

It is screwed into the exhaust manifold.
between the fire wall and the motor it will be on the muffler...