Flooring

The obvious answer is to figure out the total area of the room and then buy an area of carpet equal to this amount. Since rooms often do not match up with standard carpet widths, this can lead to a patchwork of small bits cobbled together to cover the last areas of the room.

Choose an area of the room that can be covered with one piece of the carpet. This is carpet area #1. Then determine the fewest large pieces of carpet needed to cover the rest -- even if there is some waste involved. This is carpet area #2. Total carpet purchase is area 1+2.

Ideally you would want to use Indoor/Outdoor rated carpet. If you use anything made of 100% nylon, it will resist mold mildew. Stay away from using PET Polyester or Olefin. They will mold.

This is not a good idea without using a cement /mortar board underlayment.

You are going to have a seam one way or another. But the bigger the slab of marble, the fewer seams. And you can use an epoxy to fill the gaps, but it will still look like a seam. And without the grout, you can have some serious expansion problems.

It's called epoxy. You can apply it yourself or have a professional do it.

A bimetallic strip is made of two different metals joined firmly together as the strip is heated one metal expands more then the other the strip is forced to coil more tightly when the strips cools the process rapidly and uncoils again , movements of the strip can operate an electrical switches

tarmac

Interlocking floor tiles are not preferable used over carpet. The best surface to lay tile or any other flooring product is on a firm and solid surface that out give. Carpet goes down when you step on and makes it so the interlocking tiles will eventually come unlocked by stepping on it. I would not recommend that you install any type of flooring until your carpet is taken out. However if your looking for a good interlocking floor tile I would recommend Swisstrax. They have a great product. And they are great to work with.

Sources:

www.swisstrax.com

www.bigfloors.com

www.racedeck.com

1.37822e6 miles per hour.

In purely mathematical terms you would need a piece of carpet 12'w X 31' 3"l

This is assuming that the room is square (they almost never are), the carpet is at least 12' wide (it often isn't :-), that the factory edges can be joined perfectly to make acceptable seams (they seldom can be) and that there is no pattern that has to be matched

A professional measuring the room should estimate the minimum amount of (solid color) carpet needed at 12'w X 32'3" to allow for seams. Pattern carpet would require additional material to allow for matching

Yes

Yes! Of course you can. Laminate flooring has some great qualities: its cleaning and maintenance and very easy. It can mimic many other pricier floors like marble, hardwood, tile. It can be installed anywhere really-even below grade installation. It's an easy DIY project and its environmentally friendly too.

no

Depends on the size tile you use. 12" tile on the floor I use a 1/4"x1/4" square notch trowel to spread my thin set. Larger tile require 1/4" x 3/8" square notch trowel. Wall tile usually needs a 3/16" x 5/32" V notch trowel. You will want to check the bag of thin set and with a professional in the store. Some tiles have different requirements.

Only engineered bamboo flooring.

He will need 240 tiles.

You will need 77 pieces of 2 x 2 ft marble. Buy a few extra to allow for breakage.

Leveling a floor requires determination of why the floor is unlevel to begin with and what types of floor coverings did you want to use? Structural causes to uneven floors represent a larger more complex series of questions and resolves then is practical from a posting. If you have movement from joists or upright supportive beams, or sinking forms/footings of concrete talk to a contractor or professional! If you simply want a cosmetically level floor then I will try to help. Different types of floor coverings require different tolerances of levelness in the sub floor/substrate. Carpet stretched over underlay (carpet cushion) is by far the least demanding type of floor covering. Sheet Vinyl needs to be installed over a substrate that is porous, will not move around, pass moisture, and be smooth and consistently room temperature. Vinyl tile is the same as Sheet vinyl but less tolerant to unevenness. Ceramic tile is very demanding about firmness, non-moving, evenness, porous. Hardwood (solid) requires a substrate that will accept fasteners securely, stable humidity; levelness is required as the finished installation will only look as level as the substrate it is nailed to. Hardwood (glue down) requires porosity, dryness, normal humidity, levelness. Hardwood/Laminate (Floating installation method) requires normal humidity, levelness within 5/16" across 8-10 ft. Leveling compounds are available to "feather" out small cracks (1/8" square) all the way to 3" thickness. Leveling compounds are typically made from Portland Cement and modified with a polymer. As you increase the required thickness of leveling, the Portland cement is processed with more of a "grainy" shape to increase the compressive strength ("compacted sand"). A latex/acrylic primer coating should be applied to the substrate when leveling areas in excess of 1/2" in thickness. Simple leveling is applying up to 1/8"per application to a maximum thickness of 1/2". Full self-leveling compounds are used for areas greater then 1/2". These compounds can be very expensive. Leveling compounds should be applied with normal room temperatures before/during/after installations. The additives used to increase compressive strength are very strong in odor and proper ventilation should be used. The curing/drying time on various leveling compounds depends on thickness of application, strength of mixture (acrylic), room temperature; amount of mixing/troweling compound is subjected to. The mix ratio of powder to water/additives is very important. Exact mix ratios must be used or curing/drying may not develop properly and is very difficult to remove. Using an 8ft long level or straight 2' x 4' go over entire area and mark low spot perimeters with a piece of chalk or pencil. Mix up only enough compound that you can actually spread within 15-20 minutes. A wide, paint trowel is inexpensive and works great moving the compound around. With larger applications a "screening" board also works great. Remember self-leveling doesn't mean self spreading! Sanding trowel marks and ridges is required when gluing down sheet vinyl or vinyl tile. Also allow 24-48 hours drying time first. If your substrate is very unlevel and structural changes are not possible, you may want to use"D grade" plywood to "build up" the bulk of the low areas before applying the leveling compound. Plywood is always less expensive then compound. Do not underestimate the spread rate of the compound as a 50lb bag doesn't cover as much as you think @ 1/2" thick! Always check for door threshold clearances and appliance clearances prior to pouring. Some products are truly a professional-use only product. Always read the prep and working time before you purchase!

To answer this we first need to know how big the ceramic tiles are.

Length (ft) x Width )ft) = Area (sq ft); 8 x 6 = 48 sq ft; Assuming the 6-inch tiles are square, then 4 tiles = 1 sq ft Multiply 48 sq ft x 4 tiles per sq ft to determine: 48 x 4 = 192 tiles

measure width by length and divide the answer by 9 eg. 12ftlong x12ft wide=144square feet divided by 9=16 you would need 16square yards

Sub-floor bracing is provided to transfer sideways loads (ie: not gravity, but wind or earthquake loads) down to the ground.

Bracing needs to be provided at all levels to work. Imagine a building in a wind that had bracing to resist the wind at the roof and wall levels, but not at the subfloor level. The side load of the wind could be transferred through the roof and walls, but when it gets to the subfloor the piles have no way to transfer it to the ground because they are just designed to resist gravity loads. So they will fail in strong winds. It is a bit like a skycraper with columns on every level but one. That level has nothing to resist the gravity so it will fail.

Usually tender loving care. used mostly in realtors descriptions of houses they're trying to sell.

With 9 square feet in a square yard.... 760 x 9 = 6840 square feet

The toxins might not be able to air out in a closed environment.