Go left to right when they are not going right to left
Several possiblilities.Starter motorStarter solenoidignition switchwiring.
Intermittant starting problems can be a real pain to troubleshoot. If it is not cranking or if it is cranking but not starting you will have two large and different branches to follow to the source. If it is not cranking, it is likely electrical, such as ignition switch, solenoid, starter motor, battery, or even loose of dirty connections. If it does crank but not start, then you ned to look at many possibilities that would fall under lack of spark, fuel and or compression.
I had similar problem with my 85 caprice classic. Sometimes, it cranks, but doesn't start. Once it starts, it runs smoothly. Usually, I have to give no or little gas to start it. We changed almost everything, starter, distributor cap, coil... cleaned carborator, fuel tank, air filter. Still having problem. First it used to start in morning (cold boot), but not in afternoon. But last two times,it couldn't start in morning, too. Our mechanic still couldn't find out the cause.
If you don't want a permanent fix but want the car to temporarily start, just put it in neutral and turn the key. When you can't figure out what the problem is and nothing else works, that usually does. I always try that first when a car doesnt start because its the easiest thing to do.
this was happening with my Volvo s40 2001. The problem was the fuel pressure controller (as this is fuel injection system). It starts fine the first time, then after a couple of hours you have to hold and crank for a couple of seconds. The first time the engine is turned off the gas remains in the manifold also causing flooding. I ignored this problem the first time it started happening. After 1 week the car died and I had to replace both fuel pressure controller and the idle control motor and this stopped working as I was driving the car around. Total cost of repair for me - $550. Repairing the fuel pressure controller is $200. So if this happens to you, take it to a garage and get it fixed and save some money.
Heres more info on a fix of that passover module starting problem. If you try this fix, please report back the results.
n my opinion, used parts won't solve the problem either because they will just fail like the new part that I put on. There are literally thousands of posts on the internet of people with these same ignition lock cylinder problems. The N-body cars seem to be the leaders.(Malibu, Alero, Grand-Am) Yeah, I can see where this might seem a bit involved.... but it's really not. I just wanted to follow up with evidence of how it works. The quick simple fix is just to cut the yellow wire and tape up both ends. I took a screwdriver to pop the cover from around the stereo and took out 4 screws. Then, pulled out the stereo. The 3 wires from the ignition are right there on the left. Start the car and cut the yellow wire. That's it. You won't have to replace the ignition lock cylinder until it falls apart. I don't have to worry about my wife and kids being stuck somewhere. I certainly didn't mean for it to come across as being complicated at all. Enevitably, someone will ask why this works.Report Post | IP: Logged
Behind the glove compartment, you have to take the compartment out by pressing inwardly on the side hinges, and the fuses will become exposed.
Remove plastic covering where the gear change cable go. You'll see the oil level / filler plug on the gearbox casing. 8mm hex head to loosen.
yes there is ' just found it . top far right in internal fuse board.
Fiesta's have a common fault with the heater control valve failing closed. You can get a new one from Eaby for £15
Yes they will all fiestas from mk4 to 7 as far as i know all have the same 5.5mm space of alloys
If you are replacing the air bag, then this means it deployed. This also means that as soon as you connect a new one it may or may not deploy prematurly. This could be a very dangerous repair. Take it to a professional and have them install it.
Paper element filter in a black plastic housing which looks like a fat bottle with a hexagon head, on the side of the engine block. You need to take off the front section of the air pipe to get at it.
a common fault on some ford is that the earthing points for the electrical system corrode, and cause a bad earth. this can play havock with the light etc. Try cleaning them up. they are usually postioned on the
* front - inside the engine bay on the left an right hand sides, behind the headlights * rear, somehwre around the rear lights. An easy way to tell if this is your problem would be to get another person to stand behind the car, and put the side lights on, indicators and brake lights at the same time, you may find that all the light go mental, in which case it is your earths!
i believe code crackers are people that put viruses in to the computerssuch as hackers they get into the computers and break the codes down to let the virus in. never open a site or an email that you don't recognize and even then if it some one you know they could be sending a virus to you with out knowing they have one. hope this helpsAnswerThat's his/her belief. I don't think code cracking has anything to do with computer viruses. It is either referring to cracking (defeating) protection code such as copy protection or cracking (discovering) encrypted code. In both cases the intent is to do something illegal.
If you are locking your car before trying to take off the cap, this is the problem. The cap won't come off if the car is locked.
The flow of Air entering the cabin will be blocked as the filter gets dirty. If you do not want to change it just remove the old filter and leave it that way. No harm will be done. You will just not have filtered air any longer.
.044 inch ( according to motorcraft . com )
Turn the radio on. Holding down the 'clock' button and use '' (forward) to set minute.
it depends on what sort odf sound you want to pull out of your speakers, you can certainly fit a larger speaker into your door simply by cutting away at the interior with a small single saw and a sharp blade. i suggest that you go to your nearest scrap yard and find door interiors for your car, this way if you go to sell your car, you can fit door interiors that dont have customised speakers in them. if you want alot of base then you will need a subwoofer, and amplifier and maybe a power cap, all depending on what the WATT of the subwoofer is. if youe want less bass but still a basser speaker then 6.9 (six by nine) speakers are practicul, there small enough for doors, you dont need an amp or a power cap and they still give of a bass level. standard speaker are ussually 4.5 small speaker (i.e 3 inch) are good for treble and sharp sound, these are best fitted in the dash board or in replacement of tweaters. tweaters are very small, maybe an inch in diameter, they are ssually in the door near the top toward the front and are onl to clear up fuzzy sound
First take off the grill cover the radiator by unclipping the clips at each side and lifting it upwards. Unscrew the two screws at the front of the head lamp and then the third screw on top. Lift out the head lamp carefully. Unplug the back case of the head lamp with the clip below. Unclip the headlight by clipping together the metal clips and take out the headlamp, making sure you do not touch the light. Replace the headlamp also making sure you do not touch the light with your skin. In case you do, wipe thoroughly with a soft tissue. Close and replace the appliances in the same way.
On a mk7 Fiesta (2008-11) simply a case of prising off the rubber covers behind the bulbs then twisting the build holders anti-clockwise - may waht to use a screwdriver just to assist the little lugs as its twists. Fiddley, but no need to remove any major componants, though I took off the fuse cover to make it a little easier. Once holders are out and hanging by their wires, just a case of levering out the bulbs and replacing with new ones, then twisting back into place. Five minute job once you've done it the first time
Possibly you need some transmission fluid More Likely, depending on Your climate, You may have developed some frost, or dirt, on your mass air flow sensor. On modern electronically controlled transmissions like the 4L-60E transmission, all of the controls depend on information from the mass air flow sensor.
Hi, what you need to do is first of all buy a cigarette lighter from a car store (just get one of those universal ones) or go to a scarp yard and get one from there, then all you have to do is wire it straight up to your battery! run the cables behind the dash then under your bonet. make sure you secure all the cables so the dont get caught up or melt and short on you engine! If your going to do it that way rather than to wire it into the loom be sure to put an inline fuse in or you'll probalby end up melting the wire!!!
GET AN OLD WIRE COATHANGER AND STRAIGHTEN IT OUT WITH A SLIGHT HOOK BEING LEFT ON ONE END. GET A TORCH TO PINPOINT THE RELEASE CATCH. INSERT THE HOOK END AND PULL THE WIRE IN THE DIRECTION REQUIRED TO DISENGAGE THE CATCH. YOU COULD ALSO TRY USING ALONG SCREWDRIVER TO OPEN IT USING THE SAME METHOD
i found that by fully extending the bonnet release lever and having someone else pull the bonnet upwards at the same time got the bonnet open, then i made sure i lubed the catch on the bonnet and works fine so far.
If the cable has broken
grip the broken end with pliers or
vise grips and then pull
I've just finished grappling with the jammed bonnet of a 2003 Punto due to a broken operating cable. It would seem the only way to open the bonnet without damage to the car is to remove the bonnet release mechanism held by 2 13mm nuts to front of the engine bay.
The best way to remove these nuts I found was to use 2 wooden wedges to gain better access. I covered the wedges with a rubber glove sprayed with wd 40 and pushed them between the front lip of the bonnet and the plasctic facia immediatley below - roughly 3 to 4 inches either side of the badge. The plastic below the bonnet bends not the bonnet.
I've viewed posts that suggest using an socket wrench , extension bar with a knuckle end attached to the socket via the gap in the plastic radiator facia. In practice I found this angle of attack too acute to losen the nuts hence the wedges. Also the wedges gave a better view of the nuts.
I also removed the number plate and a plastic vertical reinforcing stringer to get an arm up along side the radiator and guide the socket onto the nuts.
Like many posts on www initially I was convinced that all I had to do was find the right button / lever and the bonnet would spring open! This is not the case. Unfortunately the release mechanism is only exposed when the unit is removed. Long screwdrivers, coathangers or garden canes can not work.
this is the easy way takes 5mins and you dont break anything,drive your car on kerb with passenger wheel on kerb,with a torch slide under passenger side front of car (just behind the rad)look for the bonnet cable or feel just above rad,(it helps if you get someone to wiggle cable inside car)once you got cable about 2 inches from bonnet catch push towards drivers side,the nearer you get cable to bonnet catch the better and then the bonnet will open
The standard firing order for a 4 cyl engine is 1 3 4 2. However if i remember right i think fords set there engines up with the 1 2 4 3 configuration. Try either of these and im sure one will work for you. Hope this helps
Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"
it depends what size the wheel is
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