Furnaces

So that it can withstand the external pressure of the water pushing inwards to crush the furnace.

Here's how I answered a similar one earlier:

How long is a piece of string?

No really... There's a lot more to the question than how big the house is. What you really need to know is, how much ventilation air (intentional or not) moves through the house, and what are the areas and R-values of the surfaces the house ill loose heat through.

Here's an example:

Say a house is in a 5000 heating degree day climate where the coldest it gets is 0°F. it has an air circulation of .5 air changes per hour. Its 42' x 50', with 8' ceilings. It has R-40 insulation in the ceilings and R-20 in the walls. It's on a well insulated slab so we'll disregard foundation losses. It has doors and windows totaling 200 square feet, and they are R-2.

You size the furnace so that it will heat the house 98.5 percent of the time. That remaining 2.5% of the time is when it's so cold out the house won't quite stay at 68°, but oh well. Throw on a blanket and go to bed. Let's call that 98.5% temperature 5°.

So now you need to be able to overcome a 60° heat difference with those walls, doors and windows.

The roof is going to loose 1/r*60°*area per hour. R=40. That's 3150 BTU per hour. The walls are 1272 square feet (because we subtracted the window and door area). They loose 3871 BTU per hour. The windows loose 6000 BTU per hour.

The building has a volume of 2100x8. It changes half of that air per hour, and it takes .0182BTU to heat a cubic foot of air 1°F. That's 18345 BTU.

The total is around 31,400 BTU. Not bad for the coldest night of the winter.

Now run those numbers again when the building is 21'x50', two stories, with a 2' exposure uninsulated concrete foundation (R-1), R-15 ceiling (6" unfaced fiberglass with air blowing over it from soffit and ridge vents), R-8 walls (R-11 fiberglass, degraded from air infiltration), R-2 windows but 300 square feet of them, and 1.3 air changes per hour. Imagine that instead of a winter minimum temperature of 0°, the minimum is -30°, and your go below 2 1/2% of the time temperature is -20°. Call it an 8000 heating degree day climate. It'll be different.

85° temperature difference over a 1050 square foot attic, divided by R-15 = 5950 BTU/hr. The walls are 8' tall, plus rim joists, so 142' circumference times 17.5' is 2485, minus the windows is 2185 square feet. 85*2185/8=23215 BTU/hr. The windows are 85*300/2=12750 BTU/hr. The foundation cools to a bit below grade, so call it 142'*3', or 426 square feet. (Actual R-values depend on soil type and hydrology.) 426*85/1=36210 BTU/hr. The house has a volume of 21*50*17.5, or 18375 cubic feet, and is moving about 23000 cubic feet an hour through. 23000*.0182BTU/cu.ft*85°=35532 BTU. So this house needs a furnace capable of putting out close to 114,000 BTU per hour.

Or you could insulate the basement to R-10 with 2" of foam, which would cut down the losses there from 36210 to 3621. Chase air leaks, especially in the basement and attic. Caulk plumbing and electrical penetrations. Put gasket kits on the doors and tight fitting interior storms on the windows. Change the infiltration from 1.25 to .6 air changes per hour by picking away at these leaks. That takes it down to 17055 BTU/hr. That will also make the windows R-3, and bring their losses down to 8500. Blow the attic full of cellulose to R-50 and go from 5950 to 1785. Now we have a whole house heat use of near 54000 BTU/hr.

In this 8000 heating degree day climate, that takes us from 257 million BTU/year to 122 million BTU/year. Weatherization let you get by with a smaller furnace, and saved you (in this example) 135 million BTU = about 1150 gallons of oil = about $3060 per year. Run that for a few years and you see what your weatherization budget is.

This is what an energy auditor can do for you. Find one who is certified and isn't just out to sell you a single product like windows.

If you mean drip leg, yes you can. Some local codes still want a drip leg installed.

The ghost at Sloss Furnaces is the owner. He died in the that exact building.

in the Detroit area...appx $ 100(one story) -$120 (two story)

How long is a piece of string?

No really... There's a lot more to the question than how big the house is. What you really need to know is, how much ventilation air (intentional or not) moves through the house, and what are the areas and R-values of the surfaces the house ill loose heat through.

Here's an example:

Say a house is in a 5000 heating degree day climate where the coldest it gets is 0°F. it has an air circulation of .5 air changes per hour. Its 42' x 50', with 8' ceilings. It has R-40 insulation in the ceilings and R-20 in the walls. It's on a well insulated slab so we'll disregard foundation losses. It has doors and windows totaling 200 square feet, and they are R-2.

You size the furnace so that it will heat the house 98.5 percent of the time. That remaining 2.5% of the time is when it's so cold out the house won't quite stay at 68°, but oh well. Throw on a blanket and go to bed. Let's call that 98.5% temperature 5°.

So now you need to be able to overcome a 60° heat difference with those walls, doors and windows.

The roof is going to loose 1/r*60°*area per hour. R=40. That's 3150 BTU per hour. The walls are 1272 square feet (because we subtracted the window and door area). They loose 3871 BTU per hour. The windows loose 6000 BTU per hour.

The building has a volume of 2100x8. It changes half of that air per hour, and it takes .0182BTU to heat a cubic foot of air 1°F. That's 18345 BTU.

The total is around 31,400 BTU. Not bad for the coldest night of the winter.

Now run those numbers again when the building is 21'x50', two stories, with a 2' exposure uninsulated concrete foundation (R-1), R-15 ceiling (6" unfaced fiberglass with air blowing over it from soffit and ridge vents), R-8 walls (R-11 fiberglass, degraded from air infiltration), R-2 windows but 300 square feet of them, and 1.3 air changes per hour. Imagine that instead of a winter minimum temperature of 0°, the minimum is -30°, and your go below 2 1/2% of the time temperature is -20°. Call it an 8000 heating degree day climate. It'll be different.

85° temperature difference over a 1050 square foot attic, divided by R-15 = 5950 BTU/hr. The walls are 8' tall, plus rim joists, so 142' circumference times 17.5' is 2485, minus the windows is 2185 square feet. 85*2185/8=23215 BTU/hr. The windows are 85*300/2=12750 BTU/hr. The foundation cools to a bit below grade, so call it 142'*3', or 426 square feet. (Actual R-values depend on soil type and hydrology.) 426*85/1=36210 BTU/hr. The house has a volume of 21*50*17.5, or 18375 cubic feet, and is moving about 23000 cubic feet an hour through. 23000*.0182BTU/cu.ft*85°=35532 BTU. So this house needs a furnace capable of putting out close to 114,000 BTU per hour.

Or you could insulate the basement to R-10 with 2" of foam, which would cut down the losses there from 36210 to 3621. Chase air leaks, especially in the basement and attic. Caulk plumbing and electrical penetrations. Put gasket kits on the doors and tight fitting interior storms on the windows. Change the infiltration from 1.25 to .6 air changes per hour by picking away at these leaks. That takes it down to 17055 BTU/hr. That will also make the windows R-3, and bring their losses down to 8500. Blow the attic full of cellulose to R-50 and go from 5950 to 1785. Now we have a whole house heat use of near 54000 BTU/hr.

In this 8000 heating degree day climate, that takes us from 257 million BTU/year to 122 million BTU/year. Weatherization let you get by with a smaller furnace, and saved you (in this example) 135 million BTU = about 1150 gallons of oil = about $3060 per year. Run that for a few years and you see what your weatherization budget is.

This is what an energy auditor can do for you. Find one who is certified and isn't just out to sell you a single product like windows.

how big of a gas furnace do I need for a 2 story 2300 square foot house in northwest ohio

its in the pilot lamp.. you need to slide the orifice out of there to clean or replace every so often

The basic reason for having a chimney tray is to segregate two (2) different Unit Operations within the same piece of equipment - usually a pressure vessel. This technique is used in a variety of processes.

For example, let's consider a TEG absorber (contactor). The basic process requirements for a TEG absorber call for the incoming feed gas to be totally devoid of any liquids - particularly water and/or hydrocarbons. In order to comply with this important specification, special, efficient vapor-liquid separators are installed upstream of the contactor. However, in certain situations - such as in offshore platforms - space and volume come at a premium and as a consequence, process engineers make use of a chimney tray to combine a vapor-liquid separator in the bottom section of the contactor tower and the actual, absorber section on the remaining top section of the same tower. By introducing a chimney tray between both section, the process engineer ensures that there will be vapor-liquid separation (one Unit Operation) in the bottom section and only the product moist gas stream will be injected into the bottom of the absorber section (another Unit Operation).

Another example can be found in strippers or distillation columns. Sometimes there are needs in either of these two types of Unit Operations to introduce side-stream drawoffs or to selectively take a liquid portion and impose another Unit Operation on it (such as heating or reboiling). Taking a drawoff and diverting it to a reboiler while returning the reboiler vapor product back into the top section of the drawoff is done in many distillation towers and strippers. This is done by incorporating a chimney tray and gives the operation a more realistic credit of having one additional theoretical separation tray because the chimney tray segregates the feed liquid and the product vapors to-and-from the reboiler.

The chimney tray does this without any moving parts.

It depends on the furnace design. Some furnaces (and other heating devices) are designated "zero clearance", meaning they can be built into walls without danger of fire. Others require a certain clearance, as spelled out in the manufacturer's installation instructions. Let the manufacturer's instructions be your guide.

A furnace heats air; a boiler heats water.

--The HVAC Veteran

There are several ways of charging the Electric Arc Furnace(EAF).

1. 100% Scrap Charging by opening the furnace roof and introducing scrap bucket into the furnace shell. In this process 2-3 charges are taken for reaching the designed capability of furnace. This results heat loss when roof is opened.

2. In latest process DRI/Sponge Iron is fed from roof hopper, continuously, into the molten metal pool.

3. In another process, hot metal(from blast furnace) is introduced from slag door or roof top. This is the most effective method for reducing Tap To Tap Time(TTTT).

The gas furnace pilot (flame is lit all the time) is sometimes referred to as a pilot light, but no matter what you call it, its purpose is to serve as a small ignition flame for the gas burner. And when this little flame fails to operate properly or go out, it's one of the most common reasons a gas furnace will fail to operate.

Tax laws change every year. Check with your accountant.

Yes you can get a high wind cap for the vent.

There is the possibility it is oversized causing it to heat the house, shut off and restart otherwise known as short cycling. Ideally the furnace would be sized to heat the house at the same rate the house loses heat on a design day.

Watts

The temperature should be set according to your comfort preferences. The temperature at which most people feel comfortable is in the range of 68°F to 72°F. Setting the furnace temperature higher will result in increased operating cost, as heat is lost through air leaks and radiation, especially when the temperatures outside are low and when it is windy.

It is possible to run the furnace at much lower temperatures to save money, in the range of 58°F to 68°F, if one dresses warmly and doesn't mind wearing bulky clothing indoors during the winter.

Remember that thermostats have a built-in temperature hysteresis, or "swing". Whatever temperature you choose, the furnace will operate a degree or two above and below the setpoint, so if you set the thermostat to 70°F, you'll observe the room temperature cycling between, say, 68°F and 72°F. This is normal. The hysteresis value in many electronic thermostats can be adjusted by the user according to preference. A larger hysteresis value results in the furnace cycling less frequently, but running longer once it comes on.

No, furnaces are forced air heat. Boilers are hot water heat.

Defective thermocouple or possibly a dirty or clogged pilot orifice.

Cost depends on where the furnace is to be relocated. Duct work transitions may need to be made, electrical and gas lines may also need to be ran. Contact a reputable HVAC contractor to give you an estimate.

It depends on the efficiency you are looking for and the metal work that needs to be done. Contact heating and cooling companies to get estimates.

yes u can if u are good with duct work put a down draft furnace in a basement and pipe it up one floor well not recommended it will work i did this to help a lady get threw winter who had low funds and it has worked quite well u need to build a custom box for the furnace to sit on to make this work and pipe directly from box and use smallest duct work u can i.e mobile home duct work or 4 to 6 inch

What you did is still a downdraft furnace

Cost of a furnace depends on the efficiency, the brand unit, transitions needed to be made, and the cost of a quality installation. I recommend getting estimates from qualified and reputable HVAC companies.

Heat load calculations need to be conducted for home to determine the proper size furnace. There is no simple answer to this question. There are a number of factors that can effect what size your furnace should be. Example: square footage, duct work size, insulation factors, windows etc. I recommend having a heating professional look at your home and conduct a heat load calculation. Over sized and under sized furnaces can cause you number out problems in the long run.