Furnaces

Usually the filter is right on the inside of where the return air duct meets with the furnace. You usually have to take off the side or front panels of the furnace to gain access to where the filter is. Usually these involve sliding them up and out but it can vary. Check an online owners manual for the make and model of your furnace. Usually there will be a plate of information somewhere on the casing of the furnace with this information.

HVAC Service Technician

The manifold if the metal tube that directs the gas from the gas valve to (2-10) orifices so each orifice receives the same amount of pressure. This manifold is factory made and should never be changed.

upflow, lowboy, downflow, or counterflow, horizontal, and multiposition

It sends an electric signal to the valve to tell it to turn on or off.

No standing pilot, it is a spark ignition unit

It is better to have a hvac company come out and do a heat calculation on the house then it is to follow a basic sq ft heat calc.

Call around for a company that has heat calc software, that takes into account the windows,walls, doors, attic, and they should also give you a copy of the calc.

This way you get the best system for the house.

You can find a heat calc for sq ft online, but I recommend getting the right calc.

If you have 2x4 walls with r13, or 2x6 with r19, you could be losing or overpowering

the house without taking all this into account with a good heat calc.

furnace

Yes, but if it is not zoned, you will just overheat the area with the other thermostat.

Which ever thermostat is in a cooler area will make the warm area of the house warmer

then you want it.

If you have adjustable vents, just close down the vents in the warmer part of the house or where the thermostat is, and the cooler parts will get more heat because it will run longer to make the thermostat reach temp.

Don't close them all the way, just start at half and see if this works, adj as you need

or until you get the results you want. If they are not adj, you can either get them or

be creative to block some of the heat coming out.

I also believe you would have a duel stage furnace also.

A heat pump will do this, a furnace should not. Are you sure you have a furnace?

No you need not adopt the unique furnaces, but that doesn't necessarily mean that you had best actually undergo with it once. Furnace Filters, Air Conditioning Filters at Air Sponge Filter Company

I use a hacksaw brace that allows the blade to fit in without attaching both ends like a conventional hacksaw brace. The open handled brace is available in most hardware stores.

Put the blade in the brace with the teeth pointing down to the handle and your hand. This seems backwards but you'll cut on the pulling stroke.

Attach some form of guide to the line that you want to cut. For example, drill a couple of holes in a metal ruler and attach the ruler to the line on the duct you want to cut. Attach the ruler using #8 sheet metal screws 5/8" long to the duct work. The purpose is to keep your line(s) straight and prevent the duct work from moving back and forth with the saw blade's action.

Drill a 1/2" hole or larger in the duct along the ruler's edge. This is necessary to insert the hacksaw into the hole to start your cut.

Here is an essential tip: Use a hacksaw blade with 24 teeth per inch. Don't use a more coarse blade like 18 or 22. Don't use a 32 teeth per inch unless it's a short cut or you don't mind sawing all afternoon.

Here's an crucial point: Cut your line by dragging the blade downward toward you; don't push the blade back up like sawing wood, just pull the blade down and out and then reinsert the blade for your next cut. If you do this, the blade won't jam and bend out of shape besides cutting the duct more easily and quickly.

Finally, be SURE TO WEAR safety glasses because the steel dust from cutting the duct will find its way into your eyes and cause a bunch of grief.

The question is why would you want to and which limit are you suggesting? Bypassing any limit would decrease the safety features designed to protect the equipment and occupancy. Limits and safety interlocks are sometimes bypassed for troubleshooting purposes or emergencies but I would not unless you have qualifications to determine the consequences.

Read the tag on your furnace for the input/output rating. American Standard and all other manufacturers make more than one size furnace.

139 b.C.

no

Try looking where the return air duct connects to the furnace, if not there the next place to look is in the return air grille in the living space. Either way it is somewhere in the return air duct between the grille and the furnace.

There are limits set by the manufacturer on how hot the furnace can run. This is known as the heat rise and it`s listed on the furnaces ID tag. Have a qualified tech do a heat rise test on your unit and if you are on the low end(meaning you have room to go up) have him slow down the blower. If you don`t have the room after the test don`t do it. Ideally you should be operating around the midpoint of the listed limit which will leave you room to go up and still remain safely within the limit as the filter gets dirty

Check the outlet gas pressure with a manometer to see if the burner is operating in the manufacturers specified range.

I would also check that you have correct return air, the warm air has to have somewhere to go and must circulate. Check the temperature of the room at the ceiling and at the floor if it is different it may be an airflow issue and you may have to add another return air duct. Contact a heating contractor and have them balance your airflow and check the fan speed settings on your the furnace board. Many furnace fans are installed to run on high for use with AC units, while for heating mid fan speeds are usually ideal.

1650 Celsius

My gas furnace/AC was 26 years old and both still working fine when I replaced them. I am not suggesting you do the same, but I am in the biz and therefore would not be held hostage should either of them have failed during peak season. That said, since you are asking you must have some concerns regarding your own system so I will say don`t wait for a catastrophic failure and be forced to go with the only contractor who will give you immediate service, because you will be living with that purchase for the next 15-20 years and you`ll probably over pay for whatever that guy wants to sell you. If you have doubts, have your system looked at by someone you trust(ask around town or work for referrals). There is currently a 30% tax credit for the total installed cost of replacement of your equipment up to a maximum of $1500. If your new system meets the energy guidelines which are`nt that strict. Do a Google search on AHRI tax credit. Anyway, you`ll know when it needs to be replaced, just be smart about it and do it before you need to.

YES from the exhaust gas. If the exhaust flue has a leak or the heat exchanger has a leak into the house air Carbon Monoxide can build up in the heated house air and kill anyone in the house. The major problem is a person can not smell carbon monoxide. If you are getting frequent headaches have a heating contractor check your house air for carbon monoxide or buy a carbon monoxide detector at a hardware store and test your air yourself.

tape is an acid than kills your skin makes you swell up and bleed

Or a sticky surfaced material that is used to hold items together.

Every situation is different because every installation is different.

Some people have the furnace located in the closet that fit the exact size of the furnace most important the height the new high efficient coil are in most cases bigger in size sheet metal work is necessary to fit the new coil .

also if you change refrigeration to 410 you going to need to flash a replace line set

Labor is about 150 an hour plus the part probably you're looking about 2 4 hours

call for price in nj

http://www.njaircond.com

The same way you would clock any other meter. You just need to know what the multiplier is for whatever fuel you are clocking.

try calling Askarepairtech.com. They sell parts for furnaces and a/c units. Their pricing is really good. If you can't fix the problem, they can also come and fix it.