Furnaces

YES from the exhaust gas. If the exhaust flue has a leak or the heat exchanger has a leak into the house air Carbon Monoxide can build up in the heated house air and kill anyone in the house. The major problem is a person can not smell carbon monoxide. If you are getting frequent headaches have a heating contractor check your house air for carbon monoxide or buy a carbon monoxide detector at a hardware store and test your air yourself.

I am assuming that by asking about a "heating thermostat" for a "furnace" we are not talking about air conditioning/heating units or about electric heating units (baseboard, wall-mounted, etc.).

If the furnace already has a thermostat installed then it is just a matter of replacing the existing thermostat with a new one. Heat-only thermostats can be obtained from home centers such as Lowes or Home Depot. They should be specified to work on 24-volt circuits, unlike those designed for 110/220 volt AC electric heaters. Replacement is simply a matter of removing the thermostat cover, detatching it from the wall, and disconnecting the two wires from the old unit. Connect the wires to the new thermostat and mount it to the wall in place of the old one. Be aware that some thermostats must be adjusted level to work properly - read the enclosed literature that comes with the new unit.

If this is a new or replacement furnace that has never had a thermostat connected then there are several additional considerations. You will need to identify a location for the thermostat. This location should be on an interior wall, out of any drafts, and in a location such as a hallway which is an "average" of surrounding rooms. You will have to run 2-conductor thermostat wire (available at home centers) from the furnace to the thermostat. Connections to the thermostat are as outlined above. The connections at the furnace end depend on the type of furnace - passive hot air, forced hot air, passive hot water, circulator-driven hot water, steam, etc. These variations are beyond the scope of this general question.

Gas furnace have several safeties installed for your protection. If for some reason one of these safeties are not opening or closing the furnace will not fire. Most likely the pressure switch, high limit or transformer may be faulty. If it is an older model check the thermocouple.

My oil burner firebox ceramic liner has places where the liner has flaked off and needs to be realigned.

How do you do that and where'd you get the materials?

Read the manual to determine what one blink means, then identify and correct the cause.

The vent directs fumes from the gas burning through the flue pipe and safely out of your house. Without this vent, you run the serious risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

On the inside of the blower panel door.

Because it has to produce an electric ark to ignite the gas that heats the furnace.

Model and serial # nomenclature is usually on page one of the installation manual. If you don`t have that, try downloading it from their website.

Miami or Toronto? It matters.

It would depend on the model of the Goodman unit.

Insurance will not typically cover a broken furnace due to the wear, tear and deterioration exclusion. Some reasons insurance company will cover a broken furnace if it was vandalized, damaged by fire or water.

You should not be relighting the furnace, if your unit does not have an automatic ignitor you merely need to relight the pilot light and the instructions to do that specifically for your equipment can be found somewhere on the unit.

How do I get the age of a Trane gas furance TDD100C948B0 or Serial J15538721

shouldn't be more than $100

some problem with your furnace that caused a safety switch to trip on the inside of your machine. Usually on units it will have leds indicating what safety the machine tripped on.

if increase the pressure in positive way. the furnace's life degrades rapidly moreover you are getting back pressure / fire from fuel feed door similarly exit the air in gaps between insulation brick it leads to chance of collapse brick wall easily ref this page describes very clearly http://www.brighthub.com/engineering/mechanical/articles/62184.aspx

thanks

t.p.sivanandan from

http://www.share2others.com

increase the efficiency of the system

a chimney sweep should be preformed after the burning of 1 to 1 1/2 face cord of well dried hard wood more often if you use a wood which is not properly dried or a soft wood

I have an Older wood stove, I burn soft wood, I use Rutland creosote remover, and I sweep mine at least once a month

I strongly urge you to call a pro HVAC company and have them perform a manual J load calculation . However for years ,typically 75,000 to 100,000 btu furnaces in the south USA were the norm. Tom H. HVAC proffesional, New Orleans

If at all possible, one wire at a time.

After more than one gut-wrenching experience where this 34-year veteran of the trade has lost track of what wire goes where, I can't stress enough that you need to know where each wire goes.


Here's the more detailed procedure.
1. Shut off power to the furnace, and use a "volt stick" to confirm that you're safe to touch the wiring.
2. Draw a map of the existing circuit board and, for each single wire attached to it, identify its color and where it's going. (You don't need to do this if the wires are bundled and attached by multiple plugs, provided those plugs can be distinguished from each other and can only be oriented in one direction.) Use your digital camera or cell phone to provide back-up photos of the wiring.
3. If at all possible, remove only 1 wire at a time. Identify which terminal it was connected to (ie, "R" , "Lo Cool" , "L1" , "N" etc) and mount it on the matching terminal of the replacement board.
4. When all wires have been disconnected from the old board, remove it from the furnace.
5. Physically mount the new board.
6. Turn on the power, and "keep the smoke inside."


The HVAC Veteran

Yes blasts are very useful even Final blast

On the inside of one of the removable panels

check your flame sensor