Furnaces

Short answer: get a licensed Gas Fitter to do the job.

Long answer: as a 34-year HVAC veteran service technician, here's how I would do it.


1. Confirm that the valve is definitely at fault by confirming that the gas is on, and that there is "the applied voltage" (typically 24 volts) to the valve, and that the valve will not operate. A gas valve is usually rather expensive.
2. Shut off the gas and electricity to the furnace.
3. Identify all wires connected to the valve, either by drawing a diagram with each lead identified, or by taking photos. Then disconnect the wiring.
4. If there is pilot tubing attached to the valve, disconnect it. Be aware that it can be difficult to properly install pilot lines, and if you cross-thread the fitting, you will have to replace the entire gas valve, again.
5. If there is a gas relief line from the valve to the pilot assembly, disconnect it. In all likelihood, your new valve will not have a connection for a relief line, so you can just leave it disconnected. (The relief line is a relic from the days of "diaphragm gas valves," which used gas pressure to operate the valve itself.)
6. Using 2 pipe wrenches, disconnect the gas piping from the existing valve.
7. If there is room to spin the valve in place in the furnace, disconnect it there. Otherwise, it will be necessary to remove the valve, manifold, and burner assembly to get the valve out.
8. Clean all pipe threads using a wire brush. Apply dope or gas-rated teflon tape in the approved fashion (set back 2 threads from the end of the pipe, overlapping by 1/2).
9. Tighten all gas connections using 2 wrenches. Reconnect the pilot tubing (if present). Reconnect the wiring per your diagram or photos.
10. Attach a manometer and tubing in order to read and calibrate manifold pressure.
11. Turn on the gas and leak test the connections using a combustible gas leak detector, soap, and/or meter dial test.
12. Turn on the gas valve itself (it is usually shipped in the OFF position). If it is a "standing pilot" valve, light the pilot according to the instructions.
13. Turn on the furnace electrical power, and set the thermostat to call for heat.
14. When main flame lights, confirm manifold pressure. It should not exceed the pressure listed on the furnace nameplate (often 3.5" W.C.), but may under-fire by up to 10%, if desired.
15. Shut down the furnace and remove the manometer and tubing. Reseal the pressure tap.
16. Turn the furnace back on and check all gas connections downstream of the gas valve (using a combustible gas leak detector and/or soap).
A note: when using a combustible gas leak detector, it is not unusual to pick up a small amount of gas at the outlet of a valve (ie, at the burner ports), when the heat is shut off. It's been my experience that somewhere between 10%-25% of all gas valves do not seal off completely.


The HVAC Veteran

If the furnace itself is in the attic, the humming is likely caused by electrical components in the furnace--most likely, the blower motor, or else a transformer or relay coil. If the furnace is located elsewhere, the humming may be caused by a damper motor or possibly the air movement itself vibrating a damper or some sheet metal.


The HVAC Veteran

china

Well, it determines what kind of furnace you have, and how long you have it until the last time it was installed. It is recommended every 5-10 months or longest is 1 year. Now if you don't have it done it that amount of time, you risk going and having to spend $200-$300 on a new furnace motor. You must contact you service provider to lubricate your motor.

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Girls weren't chimney sweeps because it was a boys job.

look up the model and serial number and punch that into the computer and you should be able to find one or take the numbers and call a local hvac company and they can order it or tell you how much it will be to put in.

Yes, They are made by International Comfort Products, the tags interchange with all brands by ICP.

Where can I get a know that goes on the gas valve for almost 20 yr old Martin. Knob has been twisted off.

This is a switch designated to stop a peice of equipment before it does damage to itself or the surroundings.

Yes the sloss furnace is haunted. Many people died in there in the early and mid 1900's. They say the man who owned it and died in there haunts the sloss but still they say yet is stiill to come.

Two raw materials that are used in a Cupola furnace include rocks and briquettes. The cupola is a vertical furnace that is similar to blastfurnaces.

The sun is a mass,

Of incandescent gas,

A gigantic nuclear furnace,

Where hydrogen is built

Into Helium,

At a temperature of millions of degrees.

Muffle furnaces are most often utilized in laboratories as a compact means of creating extremely high temperature atmospheres. They can be fine turned to hold very accurate and stable temperatures with very little variance. They are used to test the characteristics of materials at these extremely high and accurate temperatures.

It's a matter of efficiency. Many makes have different models that have up to 98% efficiency. Generally, if you're replacing an older furnace ( fifteen years or more) with a new one, it will qualify.

When I was 2 years old, in 1948, my family moved into an old home in Plymouth, Michigan. It had a coal burning furnace that heated water for our steam radiators.

The furnace needed to be stoked with coal and a water valve had to be opened to fill the water tank every day in the winter. In 1949 or 1950 my father had the furnace converted to oil, so we no longer had to shovel coal. However, we still had to fill the water tank manually. Our furnace conversion occurred in the late 1940's or early 1950's. I hope this answers your question. Doug Balfour

How can you covert an oil furnace to an electric furnace

pass the air one place to another place ,hot year or coll air

The heat exchanger is the metal wall or tubing that is heated up when the burners are ignited. The inside of the heat exchanger allows the toxic flue gases produced from the burners to exhaust out through the furnace flue.

The outside of the heat exchanger is where the cold air passes over, becomes warmed, and is blown throughout the ductwork of the home. The heat exchanger is the only wall separating the toxic flue gases from the supply air.

If a crack develops in the heat exchanger, there is a potential for carbon monoxide gas to leak over to the supply side and be blown throughout your rooms. Carbon monoxide gas is odorless. The human senses will not detect its presence.

Ron Ferrara- DHR Mechanical Services, Inc.

Thermostat calls for heat. Induced draft fan motor starts. Vent pressure switch verifies pressure. Simultaneously gas valve opens and ignitor lights burner(ignition varies: hot surface ignitor, electronic spark ignitor, or standing pilot). Flame is sensed. High limit temperature switch is made. Blower fan runs. Thermostat calls for no heat. Gas valves close. Burners shut off. Induced draft fan shuts off. Blower fan put into fan delay(fan blower continues to run). Low limit temperature switch made. Fan blower stops.

This operation requires a licensed electrician. Not recommended to a DIYer.

it is tappered to accomodate the gradual volume expansion of the solid charge as it descends through zones of Stack,from top to bottom in the stack the temperature gradually increases and we need to ascertain smooth burden descent.

Because of small termal efficiency, high prices of oil, long duration of process,....

Today steel is mainly made by electric arc furnace and by converters. Converters use only oxygen for refining blast furnace iron. Electric arc furnaces can melt scrap steel much faster than in the old open hearth furnaces. Much of disadvantages of open hearth furnaces are solved in electric arc furnaces and converters. Open hearth furnaces can't melt high quality alloy steels, but they can melt very good quality construction steels. They are still in use by Russians about 30% and Ukrainians 50% and other former soviet countries. The open hearth furnaces was more then a century the symbol of a steel making.

Which is the mínimum distance between the electrode an a grounding part.

Check breakers first. Then check to see if there is a disconnect switch on furnace (usually a 2" x 4" silver box attached to furnace) and see if fuse is blown or switch is off. Also if you have had your blower door off there is a safety switch for door. Make sure door is secure.

There are multiple reasons that it might not come on but this can narrow it down a bit