Furnaces

We are having a new oil forced air furance installed tomorrow. With labor and removal of the old furnace, it is costing us $2460.00. We did get quotes as high as $3000.00.

== == Just an idea....I would check your filiter to make sure it is clean. When ours needed changing, our a/c kept kicking on and off. I think it was working so hard to get air through the filter, that it kicked off due to overworking. It would then try again, and the same thing kept happening. It drives you nuts! Once we changed the filter, it worked normally. == ==

Flame rectification is DC electrical circuit that sends a very small voltage (rated in micro amps) from the furnace electronic board up through the pilot electrode. When pilot flame is established the flame acts as a path (conductor) which allows the DC current to flow from the flame rod to ground completing the circuit. This completed signal tells the electronic board it's ok to allow the main gas valve to open . Now your furnace pilot, or hot surface ignitor will start the main flame . To put it simple, flame rectification is an electronic way to prove pilot flame before opening the main burner gas valve. It's a safety circuit to prevent the main burner gas valve from opening if there isn't apilot flame, or hot surface ignitor established.

What exactly is meant by asking "Hours a day furnace runs?" Please click on the "View Discussion" button below to see some suggested relevant questions about this matter...

pluged filter, dirty coils,

Depends on if one is there already. If not better get a contractor. You might also consider buying a guide. There are several furnace installation guides on the internet. Coupled with the installation instructions that the manufacturer gives you it should not be a Hugh problem. I do not know if I am allowed to post one that I wrote but its at www.furnacebook.com . I guess it will get edited if not allowed.

The efficiency rating is called annual fuel utilization efficiency or afue. For residential systems in the USA, the minimum is 80%. There is no standard for what is considered "high efficiency". The range of efficiencies goes up to about 96% for gas furnaces.

You do not need cold air returns in every room. Normally your warm air registers are close to your outside walls, your cold air returns which are much larger are placed in the center of your house . There may be one or more cold air return depending on the size and layout of your home.

Turn off power at breaker. Take off doors. Remove screws from board and allow to hang out of the way. Remove screws from squirrel cage assembly and slide whole cage assembly forward out of furnace, Remove plug from blower motor (if there is one, if not it may be necessary to cut wires).

With assembly on floor remove blower motor bracket screws, replace motor with OEM only, make sure it is balanced and reverse process.

You should not need a booster fan on a furnace. If the duct system is properly designed there will be no need for the booster fan. If the system is not designed properly, you would be better off replacing it with a properly designed system.

Actually, this doesn't answer the question. There is no way to know if he/she needs a booster fan without looking at the system. You can get very clear directions with photos at the following site: http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/he_heating_cooling_systems/article/0,,DIY_13894_2274829,00.htm

You best call some 911 help. You should have gone looked it over already with a few tools to at least open the panels to see the fan. There you might have noticed the fan mounting or motor and those little mounting screws.You have to look at it. That helps

When you say the furnace is still running, I take that to mean the fan and not the actual flame portion of the furnace. If this is correct, you either have a fan relay that is sticking closed or your tstat is bad. == == == == There may be a very slight time delay the the thermostat before turning off the furnace, but if you are sure that you have turned the thermostat off and the fire continues to burn, you have a serious problem. Have it checked out. The gas valve may be sticking in the open position.

Regards

It would be a good idea to reseach consumer feedback on different brands of electric furnaces. You should determine what you are looking to get out of the furnace as well as the price range you need to stay with. Carrier and Bryant are two top ranked gas furnaces, but are also more expensive. Research cost, longevity, malfunctions, and part replacement to get a complete view of the product.

Use compressed air.

Check the heater control valve. If it's stuck slightly open, the heater may be fighting against your AC system. BTW, that's the most common reason for the condition you describe.

Hi, The wiring diagram is no problem but you didn't say what type unit or model number? Are we talking heat pump, split system, package system, strip heat and etc. Goodman is as good a unit as anybodys in my humble opinion. They are also very bargain priced with easy service features and readily available replacement components at just about any A.C./ Heating / and Appliance Parts Store. Goodman has a web. site as well so I suggest you go to it and find out whom your local dealer/distributor is so you can get wiring diagram if you've lost yours that came with unit. Goodman is also very good about putting a wiring diagram somewhere on the inside access panels of all their units so be sure and look there first.

Yes, the thermostat in your home causes the gas valve to come on inside the furnace, although in some of the newer, high efficiency furnaces the process is a little more complicated. Furnaces usually detect the temprature inside the plenum and turn on the blower to move warm air into the home. Once the home is up to temperature, the gas is shut off and the blower will run until the plenum is cooled. The gas should not go off and on until it reaches the desired temperature. The gas should come on and the burners should stay lit until the desired temperature is reached. If this is not the case and the burners come on and off, you have a problem. If the burners come on and stay on until the temp set on your thermostat is reached then all is well. If you notice your burners are not lit and the temp is not reached and the blower is on, then you have a problem that needs a service tech. Your filter could be clogged or your flue pipe could be blocked or there may be a problem with your high limit.

Is there a flame in the furnace. Precisely where is this air coming from and how strong is it?

PROBABLY A THREE TON UNIT WITH MINIMUM 13 SEER RATING,,,,NEED TO DO A HEAT LOAD CALCULATION AS JUST SIZE OF HOME (CEILING AREA OF A/C SPACE IS NOT ENOUGH INFORMATION),NEED TO HAVE WINDOWS WITH SIZE AND DIRECT FACING, WALL AREA ETC FOR LOAD CALCULATION,,,,BUT JUST 2000 SQ.FT AND 13SEER (MIN US CODE AS OF 2006, WOULD GO TO 15 SEER IF CAN AFFORD AND BUY TRANE OR COMPANY THAT MAKES A UNIT WITH TEN YEAR WARRANTY ON COMPRESSOR (DON'T KNOW ANY WITH TEN YR COMPRESSOR WARRANTY THAT ARE NOT GOOD UNITS FROM DECENT COMPANIES (MAKE SURE YOUR ELECTRICAL SERVICE IS UP TO DATE FOR THE NEW EQUIPMENT AND THAT YOUR AIR HANDLER (WITH HEAT STRIP) WILL HANDLE THE NEW A/C, ..PARTICULARLY IF YOUR OLD UNIT WAS LESS THAN 3 TON OR MORE TEN YEARS OLD...MAY NEED NEW AIR HANDLER ALSO..CAN DROP A/C BILL BY 30% DEPENDING ON OLD UNIT...NEED MORE INFO TO GIVE SAVING FROM EXISTING TO NEW FOR DIFFERENT SEER RATINGS AND SIZE OF HOME...

yellow flame needs more air or cleaned orange flame could indicate moisture in the fuel if propane have your tank treated your L.P. dealer should be able to do this also I have seen this when people use hemidfers the orange is burnning of the minerals in the water

With the information provided, I would say no, not for a novice. But it can be done. A new furnace would be cheaper than my fees to change it...pkazsr

Elementshvac: Ask your heating contractor for a Green Ecm motor upgrade. We install quite a few of them. It essentially converts your furnace fan to a DC variable speed furnace.

http://elementsheating.com

eihter the thermostat is messed up or you have a short in the wiring.

It will not work right.

The thermostat is just a low voltage on-off switch. There should be two small wires (assuming you are replacing an old unit) coming out of the wall. These could be any color combination. Connect one wire to each of the terminal screws inside the thermostat housing. Replace the cover and turn it to the desired setting. The furnace should now hum happily until set temperature is reached

The `R` terminal on the stat is for the powered wire from the furnace, the `W` terminal is the power back to the furnace to start it those are the 2 to use. If you have 3 wires the third one goes on the `G` terminal, that is to run the fan only if you have a subbase with fan switching (Auto/On) capability. Usually but not always all 3 of these wires will be color coordinated with their terminals (Red,White & Green).