Glue and Adhesives

If the hosel is broken, it's probably not worth fixing. If the shaft has broken, leaving you with a clubhead with a little bit of shaft down in the hosel, it's not a big deal to re-shaft it. A local golf shop can do it, or you can use it as your excuse to explore the wonderful world of clubmaking. Best case there's enough of the broken shaft sticking out so that you can grab it with vise-grips. Heat the hosel with a propane torch until the epoxy bond fails, then twist the broken piece out. If not, you can use a shaft extractor, which is like a screw extractor (a.k.a. an easy-out to get a grip on the shaft, then heat it with a torch as before. Either way, once you get the hosel cleaned out, re-shaft as usual.

You can most definitely drill the excess shaft that is broken off in the hosel if that is the case, then if you want, you CAN make an even cut across the old shaft, as low as possible, and use that shaft to reshaft, but that will result in a club up to 2 inches shorter. Regardless, if you do reshaft, find the strongest epoxy you can, because I have been reshafting clubs for a good while and I have given up on the cheap stuff, it just doesn't cut it. (Especially on irons)

Your local pro can and will repair the club if it is worth repairing, but don't bother if it's not worth more than $50-$100.

You can reshaft yourself by drilling out the old piece of shaft left in the head or heat the shaft/head up to break the old glue bond and pull. Find a local place that sells heads, shafts, etc of try www.golfsmith.com. They have a wealth of information.

Actually don't go with the golf specialty glues. Why? Because they know that most any epoxy will work and thus they don't give you specifics of the strengths of the glue and thus some are better than others. Some companies are more concerned about margin and thus use the cheapest epoxy that will work.

The fact is most experienced club makers use epoxies you can buy in any hardware or auto parts store.


Look for epoxies that have a working range up to about 200 Fahrenheit (which is most epoxies). This is a good range for keeping the head on, but being able to get it off easily.


Although it's true most all epoxies take 24 hrs to fully cure. The fast curing options get to what they call "functional" cure as quickly at 45 minutes. The functional cure is all you need to go out and use the club.


Best fast drying option is the Devcon 5 minute epoxy.


I have seen suggestions that the gel should be used. Typically you will see the gels rated higher for tensile strength. The problem is that they are rated at a higher thickness usually .01 inches. They typically rate the epoxies at their optimum thickness. The problem is that the the thickness you need is much less than this. So the epoxies for use in clubmaking you actually want to avoid the gels. They will work, just not quite as well as normal epoxies. Anything rated 1500 or higher is just fine. The other problem with gels is because they are thicker you actually don't get quite as even coating as you will with the normal stuff.


I wouldn't recommend anything that's not a 2 part epoxy. The single part stuff is just not strong enough. If you have the special "golf" no mix epoxy you don't have to throw it away. It's usually the really quick setting stuff. I don't recommend using it, your heads will eventually fly off, but you could easily hit a club 20 times with this glue. Just make sure you put the glue on, stick the shaft into the head and adjust the head all within 30 seconds. The biggest mistake with this quick drying stuff is it will get a little sticky and you move the head to align with the grip. Doing this really weakens the glue and you will have the head fly off after a few hits.

Hoofs and tendons used to be boiled down for glue. -Now most modern glues do not use any animal parts.

When glue comes in contact with steel clamps, it can bond the two materials together. The bond strength will depend on the type of glue used and the surface conditions of the steel clamps. Some glues may create a strong bond with steel, while others may not adhere well.

probably

No you can't or else cut the d off you idiot

Well, if you really just want it to be sticky, you could pour honey on it. If you want to stick it to something specific, you could try double-sided tape, or many types of glue.

Any kind of grease or oil, Such as you would use on a bike chain. It works better than any nailpolish remover or alcahol:)

You cannot do this. take to a bank and exchange it. Most banks have a procedure for this.

To remove dried glue stains from clothing, first scrape off as much dried glue as possible using a blunt edge like a spoon or butter knife. Then apply a pre-wash stain remover or a mixture of equal parts white vinegar and water to the stain. Allow it to sit for a few minutes before laundering the clothing as usual.

Time seemed to go by quickly at the glue factory because the work was likely repetitive and monotonous, causing workers to lose track of time. Additionally, the factory environment may have been devoid of natural light and windows, making it harder to perceive the passage of time.

elmers school glue is non-toxic to children and because it awesomer

water. it's basically the only difference

The conclusion of making glue is to create a sticky adhesive substance that can be used to bond materials together. This involves combining specific ingredients in the correct proportions and following a precise manufacturing process to achieve the desired properties and performance of the glue. Testing the glue for strength, durability, and bonding capabilities is also essential to ensure its effectiveness.

Yes, as long as the surface is not dusty

I never had any luck with that. Your local auto parts store will sell you the proper glue for that application in a one time use dosage. Simply follow the directions on the package.

A label that you can peel off a backing paper, and stick directly to another surface (box, envelope, etc) is a self adhesive paper/label. Otherwise, you would need to rub glue (glue-stick, for example) on the back of the label to stick it to the box/envelope, etc.

Glue made for that purpose.

I would use PL Premium or similar

utility