This is relatively easy to answer considering you have someone to help you. I have worked at a golf course and built many custom sets for various sized people. First start by using an old club. Possibly a 5 or 6 iron. Next, stand straight up, bend your knees just enough so you can see the very tips of your toes. Now bend your at your waist so you have a good golfing stance. Let your arms hang and put the club in your hand. choke up on it until the club is flat on the floor so you would be in a good position to hit a clean shot. They should be sized down to have about a quarter of an inch left on the club. This will work in most cases providing the angle of the head is fitted for you. When I was fitted for my set of Pings I had to send them back to Ping to get them rebent then I had to have them fitted. It's a time consuming process that is well worth it. Having a set of clubs that are fitted to you it better because you don't have to change the "Natural" swing that you have to adapt to a new set of clubs.
The weight of a golf ball, according to the rules of golf, must not exceed 1.620 ounces or 45.93 grams.
They are aimed at the beginner golfer and at the budget end of the market. They are of good quality, but not the best.
About 23-24 degrees, depends on manufacturer.
As a general rule, women's clubs are shorter, lighter, and have more flexible shafts then men's clubs. Sometimes the color of the grips (powder blue, etc.) or the model name (Annika Sorenstam, etc.) may give it away. However, anyone can have clubs custom made to any length, weight and shaft flex so the general rule is just that...general.
GOLF IS MAD:)
a small one
I have drivers with both shafts. I like the Graffaloy Prolite(3.5)shaft because my swing speed has slowed, at 52yrs old, and it is the most responsive shaft I have ever had. More swing speed helps you get the ball up higher and the Adila NV 65 has a high kick point which keeps the ball lower. If you swing at 95 mph or more I think you would really love the NV. I will say I can hit my Adila shaft low and straight. If you swing below 95 you might look at the new NVS. JB Interesting question as I'm undergoing the same experimentation. I've been hitting a Ping Driver (TSI) for several years with the Graffalloy Pro Lite Stiff shaft. Recently a weight inside the clubhead came loose. A Ping G210 degree with the Aldila 65 R-Flex shaft was too good to pass up. On the launch monitor, I found that I actually preferred the stock Ping shaft (1000) in a R -flex. But this club came with the Aldila and with the promise that my seller (local golf retailer) would re-shaft back to the Ping if I didn't like the Aldila. My first two rounds have been inconclusive with the Aldila. I have smoked a number of drives yet have also been inconsistent in my flight pattern. Notoriously straight off the tee, I've faded and hooked the Aldila. This rarely happened with the Graffaloy Pro Lite.I'm 6'2" tall, about to turn 60,in good shape, and a 6 handicap, but the mind games seem to start around this age and one wonders if transitioning from Stiff to Regular is beneficial. My guess is that I will go back to a Stiff shaft for the near if not forseeable future and my shaft will be Graffolloy Pro Lite pulled from my old Ping. Jim Gulley
Callaway Hawk Eye Irons have disco grooves
Golfsmith currently owns the trademark to the Lynx brand. Not sure where they are produced.
All golf clubs are measured in inches. Just a shaft is simply measured top to bottom. When a golf club is assembled, with a head and grip, an iron is measured from the top butt end of the grip to the bottom of the hosel. When a wood is being measured it should be measured to the closest point of the sole to the hosel.
The name of Lee Trevino's wife- Claudia Bove.
Most balls on sale today have about 300 to 450 dimples.
There were a few balls having over 500 dimples before. The record holder was a ball with 1,070 dimples -- 414 larger ones (in four different sizes) and 656 pinhead-sized ones. All brands of balls, except one, have even-numbered dimples. The only odd-numbered ball on market is a ball with 333 dimples.
Officially sanctioned balls are designed to be as symmetrical as possible. A ball can have six rows of normal dimples on its equator, and very shallow dimples elsewhere. This asymmetrical design helps the ball self-adjust its spin-axis during the flight. The USGA did not sanction it and changed the rules to ban aerodynamic asymmetrical balls. The ball supplier sued the USGA and the USGA paid U.S. $1.375 million in an out of court settlement.
The number of dimples on a golf ball varies, depending on the manufacturer and may even be different for different models made by the same manufacturer. The dimples are usually the same size as one another, but some golf balls have several different sizes of dimple on the same ball. Any number between 300 and 500 dimples is reasonable, and 336 is a common number. Not just any number will do. Golf balls are usually covered with dimples in a spherically symmetrical way, and for many values of N, it is impossible to cover the golf ball uniformly without gaps. Symmetry is important or the ball will wobble or its flight will depend on which part of the ball is forwards or sideways as the ball spins. You can get an idea of how to space dimples uniformly around a sphere by thinking about the "platonic solids" -- the tetrahedron, cube, octahedron, dodecahedron and icosahedron, and placing a dimple at the corners of an inscribed platonic solid. Variations on this theme give the corners of Buckminster Fuller's geodesic domes, and also the possible symmetrical locations of dimples on a golf ball.
Why does a golf ball have dimples on its surface?
When a golf ball is flying through the air, it has three forces on it. Two of them are gravity and drag from the air. In addition, if the golf ball is spinning, there will be a Magnus force on it (which may point up or down or either side, depending on how it is spinning -- the Magnus force cannot point along the flight path of the ball however -- see our answer on the Magnus force for more information).
The main goal of making a golf ball go farther however is to reduce the force of drag as it flies through the air. In general, turbulence increases drag, because the energy needed to stir the air up and make it swirl around is energy that the ball has lost. One might think that a rough ball will induce more turbulence in the air than a smooth one, but it depends on how fast the ball is going. For balls going slowly through a viscous fluid, then the fluid just moves a bit to the side as the ball passes, and then it returns more or less to where it was. If the fluid motion is smooth, we call the motion "laminar", otherwise it is "turbulent." A ball moving quickly through a fluid like the air will have air flowing in a laminar fashion in some places and in a turbulent fashion in others. Directly behind the ball there will be a turbulent "wake", and surrounding that will be smoothly flowing air. The whole idea behind reducing the drag is to make the turbulent wake small.
The air that slides past the ball very close to it is called the "boundary layer". At the place where the turbulent wake starts is called "separation of the boundary layer" where the smoothly flowing air departs from the ball and does not close up behind the ball nicely but rather swirls around in small vortices. If the boundary layer can be encouraged to stick to the ball a little longer, then the turbulent part of the wake can be reduced. It turns out that adding a little extra turbulence in the boundary layer itself all over the ball allows the main smoothly-flowing air currents to stay closer to the ball and delays the separation of the boundary layer. Some nice pictures of balls in wind tunnel showing this effect can be found here.
There is also an increase in the Magnus force, giving the ball some lift when it is spinning in the correct direction. This force helps keep the ball in the air longer, allowing it to travel farther.
People have thought of putting dimples on everything from swimsuits to cars to airplanes. You only get an advantage from these dimples if the boundary layer can be made to stick longer to the object. Some cars just have vertical flat ends to them where the trunk comes down and there is no way to reduce the turbulent wake of these no matter how dimpled the paint is. And the boundary layer stays with airplane wings except maybe a bit at the ends (some gain can be made by putting small rods out on the tips or on the trailing edges of the wings).
No but it was legal on your MOM.
I would say it depends on whether or not you are riding in a cart, pulling a hand cart, carrying your clubs, or using a caddy. It really is a matter of personal preference. Group short to long so that they accessible and dont bang short irons against longer clubs with graphite shafts.
You could "just throw them in the bag, however the way I was taught is to arrange them in your dividers or individual tubes with the longest clubs (woods) on the high end of the bag through the the shortest clubs (wedges) at the lowest side of the bag. However I have always put my putter with my woods, even though it is my shortest club. It really is a matter of preference.
If they are loose you will most likely have to take them off. It will twist during your swing and open/close the clubface resulting in a poor shot. If they are newly done and your local pro did them take them back. If you did them, ask him to try and take them off and then regrip them.
It all depends on your swing speed and tempo, graphite is normally for a slower swing speed so you get more flex out of your shafts on the down swing. Go to a golf shop and ask to get your swing critiqued, they should be able to tell you what type of shaft you'll need for your swing. Hope that was helpful In my opinion, use steel for everything except possibly the driver. Steel is a lot cheaper and a lot more durable than graphite, and the advantages of graphite are pretty minimal. Steel shafts are also much more consistently manufactured, so you're more likely to get a consistent variation between adjacent clubs than with graphite. They also twist less under torque than even the best of graphite shafts. This means implies that you will probably get more consistent iron shots with steel than with graphite.
Graphite shafts are lighter, so in principle a player should be able to generate a little higher clubhead speed with a graphite shaft. Getting a few extra yards out of your driver might be worth it. Probably not, though. A few extra yards down the fairway would be nice, but I'm more worried about staying IN the fairway. With your irons you don't care so much about maximum distance as accurate, known distance. If you hit every iron five yards further, you now have to hit a soft 8 instead of a normal 9. If you're that good, you probably already have a regular teaching pro, and you would have asked him.
Take a specific 360 yard hole. With steel shafts, you hit a 220 yard drive, then a 7 iron to the green. With graphite, you hit a 230 yard drive, then a soft 8 iron to green. Assuming you hit both of them correctly, you're now on the green either way, but you paid an extra $100 for the graphite shafts. After hitting the graphite-shafted 8, are you now so much closer that you are more likely to one putt (or not three putt) than with the steel? Not likely.
One possible exception to the above discussion is that graphite absorbs vibration better, so if you have sore hands it is said that it is a little more pleasant to play with graphite. Graphite shafts are manufactured a lot more consistent than you make them out to be. You should most definitely use a graphite shaft in your driver--if they weren't consistent why would Tour Pro's use them? It is also recommended to use them in fairways woods and/or hybrids unless you prefer the feel of steel.
Well, NORMALLY if you a man then you get steel and if you a woman then you get graphite. But professionals (like me) get steel. With steel the club comes down harder giving the ball a tremendous power. Some men prefer graphite though because steel is hard to control. The first time I went to steel, i was hitting it horrible but now I'm hitting like a natural, future LPGA pro! Also if you like graphite better, stay with it, it's good to since it gives the ball a good WHIP. Have you seen Pro golfers slow motion back swing with the driver?
I'm not sure if you have noticed, but the drivers shaft is amazingly bended which causes the club to make a WHIP which is a powerful thing so the ball can blast out for a hole in one!
Graphite is usually 20-30% lighter than steel so you can indeed swing faster with less effort. Yes - cheap graphite has worse tolerance (even shaft wall thickness and even torque (twistiness)) than steel - which is bad. Good quality graphite is beneficial to most beginner to average golfers but lets get the cart before the horse. Most beginner to average golfers would do better to buy high quality steel ((True Temper Dynamic Gold Regular) and spend the money they saved on lessons and range balls.
offset woods are designed to give the golfer a different angle of attack that differs from the regular woods. A golfer who has trouble getting his/her shots of the ground with woods, should try the offsets. offsets help the ball come off the face with a higher trajectory.
NO, offset woods, help people who have a problem slicing the ball, hit it straighter. They slice because the clubface has not squared up yet at impact, so the offset in the hosel allows the clubface that split second longer to square up before contacting the ball which will allow them to hit it a little straighter.
Titleist Pro V 1.
1. Visit a practice range but only hit doing half swings with a 7-iron. Take it back so the club points straight behind you (3 o'clock) and swing to 9 o'clock. It will help you develop muscle memory during the most important part of your swing.
2. Don't move your head -- at all. These two things will help you get started!
Oh, and one more. "KEEP YOUR HEAD DOWN" Not trying to be a jerk but this is a tough sport if you want to get good and have more fun.
I wouldn't necessarily say take lessons, especially if you are just a weekend warrior like a lot of players out there are. Lessons can cost countless amounts of your hard earned money and also, there is no guarantee that you will benefit a bit out of it. All I can say is always make sure that you are enjoying what you are doing, because if you can't do that then chances are it isn't the right thing for you. And also, don't make the same mistake I did years ago when I started playing, whatever you do, don't try to mimic someone else's swing for any club, that will only lead to trouble and since it isn't your original swing, there isn't much you can tell yourself about the swing or how to fix it. Good luck, and I hope you come to enjoy the game of golf like the rest of us have.
1. Take 3-5 lessons per year
2. Buy used clubs, not new
3. concentrate and focus
4. practice putting as much as irons and driving
5. Don't cheat your score or you'll really never know how good you are1.) Learn to put first for feel and distance control. 2.)Learn to chip form the from the apron of the green to understand how adding loft to the club effects the ball. 3.)Learn to pitch with a sand wedge for the same reason as #2 and learn this shot from 15-70 yards. 4.) Learn the longer shots first with 6,7 or 8 iron and contact the grass after the ball. 5.) Do not use a driver for the first year and save on a lot of frustration and lost golf balls. The Driver is the club that has ruined many a beginners swing.1. Hold the club as lightly as possible. Never squeeze the handle. You will snap hook it left or slice it right if you do, and you'll rarely know which one is coming next.
2. S-S-L-L-O-O-W-W D-D-O-O-W-W-N. Everyone knows that more clubhead speed equals more distance, so beginners (and some not-so-beginners) tend to swing as hard as they can. Fact is, solid contact with a "square club face" at impact will produce amazing distance even at slower swing speeds. Try it. You'll love actually playing from the fairway.
3. Think about swinging smoothly THROUGH the ball, not hitting the ball.
4. Concentrate your practice sessions on pitching and chipping from a variety of lies around the green (rough, fairway, sidehill, downhill, uphill) and from putting between three and six feet. Nothing will save you more strokes.
5. If you're a guy, "tame your testosterone" a bit. Don't play from the blue or black tees when you are just starting out. The middle tees will do just fine. Don't assume you need a stiff or XX shaft just because you weigh over 200 pounds. A regular shaft may work perfectly if you slow down and swing smoothly.1. Work backwards(start putting then chipping then driving) 2. Take your time. 3. Practice as much as possible 4. Experiment with the right clubs for you 5. PracticeI think the best tip that I ever had was to practice, practice, practice. There are a number of golf tuition course and classes available. Previously, I had really struggled to play golf, however, once I started to practice with a trained instructor I began to have a lot more success. If you are serious about improving as a playing I can only suggest finding a good teacher and this will help you improve at golf much quicker than learning from a book or video.
Yeah, I agree with everything stated above. A good site I would recommend for references would be: www.mygolfsets.com
1) Know the basics of golf.(You can enroll on a class or have a professional trainor) 2) Observed what and how they are doing in the field. 3) take it slow 4) Be serious on what you are learning. 5) Practice more often. Just like in a singing contest,everybody starts on amateur.. GOODLUCK!
There can be 14 clubs in a golf bag during tournament play. The putter is considered one of the clubs.
They are. I have bought from them and been to their warehouse/store in Hartford. A few friends have bought sets for their wives and kids as well.
55 degrees is the loft, not the bounce. The bounce is the angle of the trailing edge (heel) of the club to flat (0 degree bounce). In the Sure Out the bounce probably high, in the 12 to 14 degree range.
I just researched and purchased the Hogan Sure-Out sand wedge. The loft on the club is 56 degrees. The bounce on the club is actually only 6 degrees. What makes this club design compelling is that the extended length of the sole actually makes it play like a club with 14-16 degrees of bounce. What this design brings to the club is a ability to hit sand shots with a traditional open face as well as a standard square set-up. I purchased this club for three distinct shots: 1 = soft and deep sand, 2 = heavy southern Bermuda rough where you have to dig down and almost blast the ball out and you do not want to bury the club in th dirt, and 3 = the ability to play a ball off difficult lies and surfaces where you have to make a steeply decending swing and you do not want to risk digging the club in and hitting it fat.
it really depends on the weather conditions. you have to take both wind,rain and hardness of the ground into consideration
how far a ball travels depends on how much the ball reacts off the face of the club, its called the trampoline effect. The harder you swing, the more the ball is compressed at impact and that translates into how fast it leaves the clubface or springs off the clubface. If you can't compress the ball it won't spring off the face so it won't go anywhere. That being said if its winter the ball is really hard and you can't compress it. A ball will travel the farthest on a warm sunny day. I am a PGA TOUR caddy so I really need to know this so I can club my player. If we play in the morning and its cool, we need to take a 1/2 club to sometimes a full club more.
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