try castrol oil stabilizer - it will stabilize the oil and reduce the leak.

Any Jaguar Dealership should be able to get the code for you, but they will probably make a charge to do so, and they will probably want to see documents to prove that you own the car (and therefore the radio in it) to show that you are not dealing with a stolen radio from someone elses car.

someone answer please

check starter

Fuel Fault code 89 translates to "Purge valve circuit. Looks at voltage across purge valve winding to detect open or short circuit."

I had this issue and I finally traced it to the crankshaft position sensor (CKPS). If the CKPS gives erratic information to the ecu the ecu puts the transmission in limp home mode. Eventually the CKPS will give up entirely and you will have a no start situation because the ecu does not have a clue what position the crankshaft is in so does not know when or what plug to fire.

Also engine dying when coming to a stop could be causedby a dirty/failed egr valve though this will not put transmission in limphome mode. Both these possibilities should throw a code. Get the OBD11 code pulled and you will be pointed to the right direction.

8 litres

230

You need to go directly to a Jaguar dealer with your Vin # and proof of ownership and picture ID. It is expensive!!!

Brian L

There is another way...however as a Jaguar owner I do not want to post here!!!

Its very simple...and cost pennies compared to Jaguar dealers. A Tip, you should have the part#(key code) in the owners manual. Good luck,Jagcat

After you remove the Hub Asm. put it into a vice lugs down. Remove the funny little stay and don't even try to thread the nut off with a hammer and punch unless you have to. The large 4wd socket used on the hub locking nut and use a very good Impact Wrench to turn the nut to the left. I had a 1" electric impact and got mine off. You can also use a 12 point 2" socket just keep a great deal of force on the nut as not to let it strip. Next you really need an Hyd. Press to press it out and you might just let the man press the new one in or build a large like 1" bolt with collars or whatever to press it back in. Me I just took mine to a shop and payed 48.00 to get it done. I believe you could do the replacement with a lot of Savy if you are so inclined, me time was against me to search the Riggin' to do it.

Alpine

it's probably in third gear which is "limp home mode" on jags. that means there is probably a loose connection or short in the electronic transmission

I would check the relays up by the passenger side fire wall. If they're blue or purpple ect.. any other colour other than black they need to be replaced! They allow moisture in and effect the system. That should do it unless it's a major transmission/electrical problem. This is the most likely and cheapest to fix at 12 per relay I believe there is 4 up there and I fail to remember which one is for the trans.

u have to hard wire it in

153624

I have just fitted a spring loaded leaper to my x type in Sydney Australia so perfectly legal in Oz .If you lift the hood you will see a hole just directly behind the bonnet spring it sis approx 140mm up from the front grill .It corresponds with a hole behind the latch plate for the bonnet pull.This top hole is where the spring for the leaper needs to sit .

I used a rubber 34mm door stop which has a pre drilled hole through it ,and pushed it into the hole ,using it as a template/guide for the pilot hole .I taped the area around the bonnet with masking tape so the paint didnt split .I drilled through the door stop from underneath the bonnet ,then closed the bonnet and drilled larger holes until I eventually got up to 18mm which the leaper requires .You then drill the smaller locator hole .Clean all dross off surfaces and touch up with primer .The leaper comes with a self adhesive gasket ,however I added more gasket glue just to be on the safe side .Tighten up plastic washer and that's it .Hope this helps ,because I couldn't find anything when I was looking

The fuel inertia switch is located on the left side of the drivers side footwell.

You cannot see it but it is a large vertical rubber button at the far back of the footwell behind the fusebox. Make sure it is pressed down or the fuel pump will not run causing your car to not start. You will have to feel around for it for a while with your finger.

This is on my 94 xj6 VDP and I am almost positive it is the same on the 96

Had the same problem with a 1995 XJ6. Try spraying lots of WD40 through the key hole, leave for an hour, spray again then wiggle the key gently until it opens! It might be worth taken the lock out and giving it a thorough clean (I did and it's sweet as a nut!)

Each of the four doors had a 3.5" Phillips. The two under the back seat were 4". You need to remove the door panels to get to the speakers. Good instructions in the book by Hayes (I recommend this because there are several tricks to get to the hidden screws). Once door is completely disassembled you can access the speaker to remove and it is easy to simply cut away the foam and put a 4"coax in the same space. From the car there is no noticeable difference as you don't have to change the grills at all. Under the rear seat you can replace with 5.25" coax but it requires drilling new screw holes and using after market grills

The effectiveness of standalone fuel system cleaners is questionable and it can be hard to get the dilutions correct.

That said, most major brands may have a positive effect and are unlikely to cause any harm.

A better option may be to try a premium fuel from the mojor brands such as Shell V-power, BP Ultimate etc. This have very similar claims for cleaning properties and have the advantage of already being correctly dosed. They are typically only a small percentage dearer than standard fuel. The extra cost per tank will typically be less than a bottle of standalone cleaner.

I own this same model and the problem i am having is the fuel pump keeps going out. From what I have found out, this is a common problem for this type and year.

150 000 euros