Jeep

1 million dollars

Depending on what type of air you put in depends on how much time and money you spend. The cheapest way is to get a small electric unit that fits under your dash,the pro's is its pretty cheap,the cons is you have only one air outlet,pricr approx 500.00. the other way is to install a compressor under the hood,new belt to drive compressor,which might require new pulley's and assorted new parts. depending on if you do it using a old jeep for parts or if you get a garage to do it, you approx 5-7hundred,garage 2000.00.

It might be on the inside of the fender it looks like a small box

Cj7's last year with a stock 304 was 1979. ...True, but in 1986 (the CJ7's last year of production) it was a factory option.

$228

You can get the vacuum diagram for the 1977 Jeep J10 from the Chilton's manual for that vehicle. You can purchase the manual in almost any auto supply store.

during world war 2

lap belts only lap belts only

It could be a low or dead battery. The 2000 Sport was notable for causing a heavy draw on the battery when being started and, having one, I found that installing the most powerful battery that will fit is the solution. I got mine from a battery shop specialist. Until I did this the Jeep ate batteries fairly often and of course they failed at the most inopportune time or place. Will your work with a jump start? If so it is a good indication your present battery if low. Good luck.

could be a faulty neutral safety switch in your console, try putting the shifter in neutral, then try starting it, if it works you will need to replace the switch. or could be a problem with fuel delivery...here is a link with a different answer (about halfway down page); http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl122f.htm

Which engine?? Answer: 2.5L = 1-3-4-2 / 4.0L= 1-5-3-6-2-4 / 5.2L= 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

the tires are ok....as long as your transmission shifts ok

Just about any Jeep CJ5 in almost any running condition will bring $1,000. What yours is worth depends on it's where you live, condition of the vehicle,, mileage, engine, and transmission type. Go to www.nada.com for an estimate.

Just about any Jeep CJ5 in almost any running condition will bring $1,000. What yours is worth depends on it's where you live, condition of the vehicle,, mileage, engine, and transmission type. Go to www.nada.com for an estimate.

What year and model jeep?

If its only noticeable while its idling (like parked at a red light), and its a high-pitched quick rattle, it might be the plastic fan shroud. The plastic tabs that keep it in place rattle on my 99 Cherokee.

Hope this helps.

I just had my Jeep in for the recall of the Cat, and it was re-programmed.

Now after 5 weeks i got a check engine light. I ran the Fault code and got a 72 which say Catalyst efficiency below required level. The Dealer told me the Cat was fine after the re-program now i have to bring it back to the dealer with this problem. Waiting on an answer.

The distributor is synched to zero degrees with a scan tool.

It is best to fully remove door from jeep. Remove all door pannels. Once you get the pannels off remove cotter pin from actuator rod that is connected to the paddle handle. Then using a long flat head screw driver and a hammer tap 2 small flat steel springs out of place or off of the serrated steel holding brackets. (you will have to align the flat head screw driver on the end that almost makes a complete circle and you might have to use some manual force, also keep the serrated holding brackets as you will need them to install the new handles.) Once you have the flat steel springs out you can then tap the serrated holding brackets out using your flat head screw driver or you can pull them out the opposite direction. Which ever you find to be easier. Once the serrated holding brackets have been removed you can tap lightly on the handle from inside the door with your hammer and the handle will almost fall out (you may have to wiggle it a little). This should work on all jeep paddel handles from 1979 up to 1988 or at least that's as far as I can tell from expierence.

depending on year model and condition stock or modified on the side of the engine follow your fuel lines down from the carb or aftermarket injection system

1-3-4-2

All it is is a different package

Yes, but chances are that you will have to take the compressor off and install an "a/c compressor by-pass pulley". You will probably have to order it as very few places have them in stock. Check with NAPA auto parts. They are the best. AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly don't carry this item. Check also online since you have to order it but NAPA usually gets it faster than the post office can deliver. NAPA seems to be next day while online ordering SHIPS in two business days.

At you local Jeep dealer.

At you local Jeep dealer.

23 Splines. See the Novak NV3550 knowledge base. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/nv3550.htm

replace the rear shock asorbers

"Jeep" is a trademark owned by Chrysler, which they acquired when they purchased American Motors Corporation back in the late 70s or thereabouts. The word "Jeep", referring to the military vehicle used extensively in World War II and afterwards, comes from the acronym "GP", referring to a General Purpose vehicle.

The turn signal switch is on the left side of the steering column.

I wouldn't think so, unless it let all the water leak out. Typically in the summer time you are running the vehicle with the AC on and no water is circulating through the heater core, and your vehicle doesn't overheat.

If your heater blows out hot air then it is good. Try replacing your thermostat. If not a clogged heater core could demonstrate particles floating around your cooling system that may ultimately foul your radiator.

I'm going to add to this answer. Without a doubt a clogged heater core can cause overheating on some engines. GM's 2.5L Tech 4 engines are just one of many that will over heat if a heater core is restricted. The way the cooling system is designed on this engine will not cool properly at hard acceleration or high idle with a clogged heater core. In this engine the heater core is fed by coolant from the lower thermostat housing first going through the intake manifold then to the core and then returned back to the radiator via independent heater hoses. If a clog in any part of this would happen it will cause the coolant to stall at the thermostat housing. Usually you will see normal scan tool temperature readings at high throttle, but the temp gauge will usually climb into the red at the same time and quickly return to normal once throttle has been taken back down to idle. You will also notice signs of high cylinder head temps on it's painted surfaces or hard burnt spark plug wires can also be a sign if problem has gone on too long. Blown head gaskets and cracked heads can also result from this very quickly.