John Deere

Ok I have the service manual in front of me this this one is a doosie.

1 Removal of everything down to the transmission.

1. The tractors console all the sheet metal down to the frame removal.

A) Pull out the battery

B) The steering wheel and shaft will need to be pulled. The easiest way to do this is to pull the bottom cotter pin, under the mower that you can see if you pull the mower deck. It will allow the steering gear to fall off and then the whole steering shaft assembly will come loose. If you want the tractors steering wheel and shaft to come out of the front pedestal, you will have to pull the top cotter pin also. Immediately place it back together outside of the tractor so you don't forget the order.

C) Take of the seat at the bottom of the seat u springs. Its 4 bolts. The two on the RH side will fall out but the other two on the LH side will rest on the gas tank.

D) To pull the metal console remove the 4 bolts at the bottom, disconnect the harness at all points (starter, neutral safety switch, lights, ignition, electric, PTO, starter relay) and also unscrew the buttons for the deck height adjustment and parking brake. You do not have to take the brake and deck levers out just pull the buttons so you can get the console out. If your tractor has an electric fuel pump bolted inside the console (116H) you will have to turn off the fuel petcock on the fuel tank (under the tractor) and disconnect the fuel line running to the top and bottom of the pump.

E) At this point you should only see the large piece of body sheet metal that is under your feet when you're sitting down. The front 4 bolts for the side console hold the front down and the 2 small bolts in the back behind the seat bolts secure the rear. Also unscrew the knob that is between your legs if you're sitting down for the Dump Valve for pushing it by hand. Remove the knob from the Forward Neutral Reverse control lever. The deck raise and lower handle will keep you from completely removing the floor but I just rotate the floor around 180 and let it sit on top of the motor out of the way.

F) Now you should see your hydrostatic transmission. Take notes and pictures of precisely how the drive belt is routed or you will screw it up!!!! (The drive belt is not adjustable so if it has excess play, go to the dealer and get another one JD PN M84075)

Remove the fuel tank

A) Make sure the petcock on the front of the fuel tank is turned off (Screwed in) and remove the fuel tank. Note how 3 of the seat bracket bolts sit on the top of the fuel tank.

Removing the Hydrostatic Transmission and differential

A) First remove the electric PTO unit to allow you to remove the belt. The whole system is not adjustable so this is the way to take the belt off. The only thing holding the pot up is the crankshaft bolt and the electrical connection that runs up to your PTO switch. Be advised that the PTO unit has a hole in it that meets a key post that keeps the PTO unit from spinning and breaking the wires off. Make sure that you realign this when you put it back on! Make notes of how the belt is routed.

B) Block the frame of the tractor up and remove the wheels.

C) There are 3 bolts on the top of the unit that bolt the rear to the top of the tractor frame in that make the points of a triangle. Remove them. Remove the 4 u bolt nuts that hold the differential to the frame on the bottom of the axles and note the little rectangle gussets that go between the frame and the rear. Remove the heat shroud that covers up the differential cooling fan and covers up the belt. Remove the cotter pin and washer that hold the brake rod. Remove the 2 bolts on the bottom of the differential that connect the transmission linkage and remove the rod that comes down from the Forward Neutral Reverse Lever. Be very careful of the cooling fan when you lower it down as it is plastic and very very brittle with age. I'm sure its 100 bucks for a new one at the dealer so watch out.

Hydrostatic transmission.

A) The fill reservoir is left and thread so its Righty Lossie Lefty Tighty

B) The little plug right beside the reservoir is for when your filling it to let the air out) Fill it with Hyguard JD oil or SAE30 oil. Let that cap out and it will get rid of the air.

C) The drain plug is located on the underside of the hydrostatic unit. BOTH THE DRAIN PLUG AND THE AIR RELEASE PLUG ARE 6 POINT HEADS)

Differential

The drain is on the bottom of the pumpkin and has a square head. The fill is on the front top of the pumpkin with a square head (7/16 wrench) slightly below the hydrostatic drain plug. Fill it with SAE 90 gear oil until it runs out of the plug and then quick put the plug back in.

The technical manual for the whole tractor is TM1206

A john deer 48 is your best answer to a 4440 tractor with syrcro transmission and a jd 60 inch double auger snow blower is a a very good unit all around for winter snow removal . you can make a ton of money with this rig a and is good around the farm.

To change the mower deck belt; Lower the deck to it's lowest position. Remove the mower deck by pulling the two pins on either side at the rear of the deck. Remove the pin holding the front of the deck. Remove the belt from the drive pulley under the engine. Slide the deck out from under the chassis. Remove three bolts holding the plastic shroud on the left blade pulley. Make a note of how the belt wraps all pulleys and idlers. You can now replace the belt and follow the above steps in reverse order to replace the mower deck.

In short, it increased the efficiency of the farmer. Now one farmer could do more work in a shorter amount of time and with out all the help. This meant that less people had to farm to have a food supply, so many moved to cities and towns. That, in short, is how America went from a agrarian nation to the diverse populous it is today.

Turn the ignition to the on position........ on the top of the fuel filter you will see two bleed screws side by side....... loosen the left bleed screw slowly, a bunch of bubbly fuel will leak out, when the bubbles dissappear and its all fuel leaking out tighten the screw........loosen the right bleed screw, if you have just replaced the fuel filter and the bowl is empty it will now fill up with fuel........when air bubbles dissappear and it is solid fuel flowing out tighten the screw..........Now the injector pump screw.... I'm assuming you have a three cylinder yanmar diesel so if you follow the three metal fuel lines you will find where they meet side by side and are secured to the top of the injector pump with fittings.....there is a screw on the front of the injector pump which you should loosen slowly, and tighten when the leaking fuel is free of air bubbles...............This should do it.

Hi Mine uses 134a Dave

John deere 60s were built back in the 50s and were bullt between 1952 and 1956.

99642)What

A tradional john deere tractor is green and yellow just like their tradmark colors are on all of their equipment and mercendise that they sell in stores.

where can I get a john deere 4300 wiring diagram

Here is the sequence from the JD manual:

1. Stop tractor on a hard, level surface. Such as a cement floor.

2. Raise mower as high as it will go by pulling hydraulic lever backward.

3. Adjust the mower deck depth stop to the lowest cut height setting.

4. Turn front wheels to the left.

5. Put rear gauge wheels in the sideways position.

6. Lower mower to the ground by pushing hydraulic lever forward.

7. Stop the engine.

8. Put the park brake in the LOCKED position.

9. wait for ALL moving parts to STOP.

10. Pull spring loaded pin OUTWARD and rotate handle FORWARD. (This is on the front of the tractor)

11. Slide mower pivot rod out of slots. (on front of tractor)

12. Remove front draft rod of mower front draft assembly from slotted bracket on mower deck.

13 Remove front draft assembly from underneath tractor.

14. Pull each spring loaded J-pin out of each mower bracket and each tractor lift arm.

15. Lift right side rear tractor lift amr and LOCK into the UP position with J-pin.

16. Lift left side rear tractor lift arm and LOCK into the UP position with J-pin.

17. Remove driveshaft from tractor shaft by pulling collar on locking coupler back and pulling shaft from splines.

18. Turn front gauge wheels so they roll toward right side of tractor.

19. Roll mower deck out from right side of tractor.

JD provides an additional note that if the tractor is equipped with the 26x12x12 tires, it may be necessary to remove the left-hand rear gauge wheel. I have found it easier just to raise the back of the tractor a couple of inches with a hydraulic jack.

yes It's at the lower rear end facing rearward, on a little silver rectangular tag, well under the PTO shaft linkage, at least on my 700 series compact diesel tractor. Sometimes they are on the side frame

If you have the serial number you can look up www.tractordata.com and search for John Deere 2955. At the bottom of the page you will find starting serial numbers for each year made. Hope this helps you.

Look on the same plate the the PIN (or serial number) is found and under the PIN is a DOM number (date of manufacture) for example 032006 March 2006

you will need your serial # then call 1-800-522-7448 that is john deere's publications # you can order direct from there most of the time you can get manuals in book form or CD

Just replaced one. First, disengage the tensioner spring and remove the two gold colored pulleys being careful to note how the spacers and guards are on them. You'll probably have to block the tensioner with a piece of wood or something to get enough torque to undo the nuts on the pulleys. You do not have to remove the black pulley. Take a picture if you can for later reference. You'll also have to unbolt the steering arm where it attaches in front of the left front tire. Disconnect the P.T.O. power connector. Then slip the belt up and off the back pulley to where it's between the pulley and the fan. Then pull it out so you can get it off the P.T.O. pulley. To install the new one start with the rear pulley first and get the belt over the fan blade and above the pulley so you'll have enough slack to slip it over the P.T.O. pulley. Then put the belt on the fan pulley. This is a pain but I turned the fan by hand to get the pulley to turn and seat the belt. Be careful you don't break the fan. It would be a major dissassembly to put a new one on. Once you get it seated you just replace the pulleys. Hook up the tensioner spring and reconnect the P.T.O. power connector. It was a pain but, saved me about $90.00 by doing it myself.

Which John Deere's? Tractors-yes, lawn mowers-yes, combines-yes, and most equipment-yes. The only John Deeres built out of the U.S. that I can think of are sold to foreign markets, most likely the same place they are built.

Diagnostics needed for john deere f510 electrical system

I had a problem with the break switch this spring. Took both plugs off the back of the switch. Hit them with contact cleaner, now it is fine. Brian Butts

if you do not have the manual it can be downloaded form www.johndeere.com.

According to Tractordata site (http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/5/8/585-john-deere-345.html) That is a 2000 model.

John Deere recomends using JD Low viscosity Hy-Gard Transmission/Hydraulic fluid in it's equipment. Please check your owner's manual for any specific requirements, if one is available. There is no equivalent on the market that I could find. The fluid keeps solvent in low temperatures and can be used in Transmissions and Hydraulics, separate or common resevoirs. I am not a John Deere expert..just a owner/user. From a web site... Hy-GARD® JDM J20C Transmission and Hydraulic Oil

John Deere Hy-GARD® provides the absolute best performance and wear protection for John Deere hydraulic and transmission systems. John Deere Hy-GARD® is recommended for equipment with either common system reservoirs or separate transmission and hydraulic systems including those with wet brakes and wet clutches. John Deere Hy-GARD® is an exclusive formulation containing a viscosity improver additive to assure optimum viscosity at all temperatures. This additive provides critical component protection, especially during startup and under heavy load. John Deere Hy-GARD® also contains friction modifiers to provide smoother clutch engagement and higher braking capacity with minimum chatter. John Deere Hy-GARD® exceeds JDM J20C specifications and only John Deere Hy-GARD meets John Deere's exacting performance requirements.

Remove 4 bolts attatching the hood on,remove side engine covers,remove battery and tray, remove headlight assy ,unplug and remove 2 plugs on harness connected to the motor,remove air filter asembly, throttle and choke linkage, remove fuel pump line from engine,remove pump and 4 bolts holding in motor, remove 4 bolts holding driveshaft on and tap loose with rubber mallet, engine is now loose from chassis. remove both side shroud covers, and remaining shroud around flywheel, 2 bolts and you finally have the starter out. best to take to local starter rebuild shop the stealership wants like 400 bucks for these. assembly is reverse of removal

A John Deere LA 125 oil capacity is 1.5 quarts.

John Deere attended Middlebury College briefly before dropping out.