Mazda

You can do it without removing the driveshaft pulley but it's easier If you remove the pulley. To remove the pulley, take out the six small bolts that surround the driveshaft bolt (which is the big one in the middle). These little guys are awkward but you can do it. Then pull off the pulley with a pulley removal tool and then you have easy access to the lower timing belt cover. Then just remove the three or four bolts that hold this cover on and you have exposed the sacred lower innards. Congratulations. If you touching your timing belt make sure everything is all lined up when you put it back. Driveshaft pulley has a mark on the top (a little notch) and there is a little metal line thing on the lower housing above it. Right in the center. Then make sure your top cam wheel deal is also lined up with the one just under the arrow. Mine actually sits left half a tooth but works great there. Have fun =)

The size of front speakers on a 94 Mazda 121 are 130mm.

it is cheaper to buy a rebuilt transmission than to have one rebuilt

The 84 is not as easy to lower as the later models because it has coil springs in the front and newer models have torsion bar suspension. To lower an 84 you can cut the coil springs shorter and install lowering blocks in the rear. You can also remove the rear leafs and have the de-arched. Do not cut the springs with a torch as this will ruin the temper and they will collapse, instead use a cut off wheel. Another way to lower the front is with drops spindles or control arms but I do not know if any are made for the 1st gen trucks. After cutting the front springs the truck will require a front alignment to bring you're camber and toe into specs, if you don't you will eat through tires quickly.

Kyrasis6

Owner of Mazdatruckin.com

My Mk3 fiesta did not.

all automatic transmissions take automatic transmission fluid engine oil is to thick a viscosity, and diff oil even even thicker if you have owner manuel for vehicle there will be a listing of which oil to use,

its in the back left corner beside the engine. pinch the clamps, pull off the hose ,(theres two, one going in and one coming out) then connect them to the new filter

Inside the fuel tank attached to the pump..

Either next to shifter or attached to transmission

it's an engine warning light. it means either your engine has got a performance problem or an exhaust problem.

So your fuel filter is going to be located if your facing your engine from the front, your north west side, looks like a cylinder with two nozzles connected to hoses on top and below it. what you wanna do is just unbolt the casing to the filter, use pliers to pinch those clamps and pull them over the hose, so u can connect them back later. Pull those hoses off, blow gas through the bottom end, if its plugged it will be hard to blow on it. Gas will just fly out if its not plugged. SO just throw your new filter in place and put the hoses back on to the fittings on the fuel filter. rebolt it back in place. wham bam thank you maam.

take the gas cap off

because its a retard

The engine also jumps when changing to Neutral and Drive. Should I have transmission fluid change? A/C was not on.

behind the fuel tank you will see a clamp this is where the filter goes at least it is there on my 1989b2200

The engine probably has cracked valve seals and or worn valve guides. This seems worse than it is. Your vehicle could run forever like this. Try this: add one can of STP at your next oil change.

Not necessarily. It depends on what you mean by a bad heater core. The core will either be leaking or stopped up. If it is leaking, then it can cause the engine to overheat and the only fix is to replace it. A clogged or plugged heater core can sometimes be fixed by flushing it. You can also temporarily bypass the heater core until you can get it fixed. Just connect the inlet & outlet heater hoses together.

The question is vague but I know a Mass Airflow Sensor issue causes the car to stall out when the gas pedal is applied like it has no power when in gear. The car may idle okay, I've even seen my friend pump the gas while it's in gear and gets the car moving but while the pedal is held down and the clutch is out the car will die.

LOOK UNDER THE PASSENGER SIDE MAIN FRAME. IT IS TUCKED JUST INSIDE THE CHASSIS. THERE IS A HEAT SHIELD THAT YOU WILL SEE FIRST. YOU NEED A SPECIAL TOOL TO REMOVE THE GAS LINES. YOU CAN BUY ONE AT AUTO STORE FOR ABOUT 10 BUCKS

There is a carbureted and a fuel injected version. Here are both diagrams: Carbureted: http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801ab7fa.gif Fuel Inj.: http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801ab7fb.gif

That would all depend on what model you are refering too. 1991 and 1992 Mazda 323 parts are all interchangable (there may be a few exceptions). If your refering to another model, someone else will have to address that aspect.

In order to remove the headlight on a 1998 Mazda B2500 so you can change it, you want to see if there are clips on the bulb or not. If there are no clips, you just grab the bulb and turn it to the left until it comes loose. Make sure you have a paper towel, rag or something dry when doing this. You never want to grab the bulb with your bare hands. It could be hot, and can cause you to burn yourself. If there are clips on the bulb, you need to squeeze them and turn to the left at the same time.

there is the 2.3l and 2.5l both have the same firing order.. facing vehicle standing in front left to right front cylinder is 246 back is 135 firing order is 123456 hope that help